A Historical Perspective

Before venture any further with our actual travel blog, I feel it is important to give some overall context of what we are seeing and what it might all means.  Over the next several days we are going to visit a number of Egyptian Temples and their overall layout is quite similar as are the designs on the walls.  Additionally, the time period of each is important.  The history of ancient Egypt is divided into three main periods: the Old Kingdom (about 2,700-2,200 B.C.E.), the Middle Kingdom (2,050-1,800 B.C.E.), and the New Kingdom (about 1,550-1,100 B.C.E.). The New Kingdom was followed by a period called the Late New Kingdom, which lasted to about 343 B.C.E.

The major difference is the King (pharaohs) who had the work completed and how he is represented.  Additionally, it is noteworthy that Eqypt was historically divided into two areas – Lower and Upper.  The Crowns for each region were depicted by what looks like a large champagne bottle for the upper region and the lower region looked like a bucket!  The combined crown looks a lot like a bottle of champagne inside a wine bucket (as described by Assem our guide).  These show up on the temple walls frequently.  

The image on the left represents the Upper Region, the one on the right is the Lower Region and of course the one in the middle is the Combined Kingdom.

We will visit two principal kinds of temples – cult temples and funerary (or mortuary) temples. The cult temple accommodated the images of deities, the recipients of the daily cult; the latter were the shrines for the funerary cults of dead kings.  


It is generally thought that the Egyptian cult temple of the Old Kingdom owed most to the cult of the sun god Ra and was portrayed as a man with the head of peregrine falcon, adorned with a sun disk with a Cobra around it, and shared characteristics with the sky-god Horus.  

Ra-and-Imentet-from-the-tomb-of-Nefertari-13th-century-BC
Ra-and-Amun-from-the-tomb-of-Ramses-IV

The layout was essentially a reception pavilion at the desert edge connected by a covered corridor on a causeway to the open court of the temple high on the desert, within which stood the benben of limestone (a sacred stone usually in the shape of a pyramid) and a huge alabaster altar. Fine reliefs embellished the covered walls and ceilings of the corridor – many of which still retain the original colors they were painted.

Mortuary temples (or funerary temples) were typically erected adjacent to, or in the vicinity of, royal tombs. The temples were designed to commemorate the reign of the Pharaoh under whom they were constructed, as well as for use by the king’s cult after death.

Most temples followed the same general design.  The layout consists of an imposing open court with colonnades of graceful lotus columns, a smaller offering hall, a shrine for the ceremonial boat of the god, an inner sanctuary for the cult image, and a room in which the divine birth of the king was celebrated. The approach to the temple was made by a colonnade of huge columns with open papyrus-flower capitals.  The first, open courtyard, was available all but as you moved further into the complex restrictions applied.  First the general population (courtyard), then the royalty (Hypostyle Hall), then the priests the king (Sanctuary).  The entire complex was controlled by the priests and no one was allowed into the Temple after dark.


The cult temple achieved its most highly developed form in the great sanctuaries erected over many centuries at Thebes. Architecturally the most satisfying is the Luxor Temple, started by Amenhotep III of the 18th dynasty (from 1550 to 1292 BCE.).  More on the Luxor Temple later in this adventure.

A listing of the Gods of Ancient Egypt

The Kings of Ancient Eqypt

One final note, before we continue our adventure, the King (male and female) always was depicted with a wooden or metal false beard, or postiche, which was a sign of sovereignty and always worn by royalty.

Splendors of Egypt & the Nile

When I asked Janeen what were the first thoughts she had when I said Egypt.  She replied with Desert, Nile River, Pharaohs and Pyramids.  On a recent UniWorld Adventure (Splendors of Egypt & the Nile) we learned about all of those things and a lot more.

It’s clear we didn’t know much about Egypt.  According to Wikipedia, Egypt is officially the Arab Republic of Egypt, and the country spans the northeast corner of Africa and the Sinai Peninsula in the southwest corner of Asia. Cairo, the capital and largest city of Egypt, was our first destination on this trip and is home to more than 10 million people.  The Greater Cairo metropolitan area is the 12th-largest in the world by population with over 22.1 million people.  This includes the Giza pyramid complex and the ancient cities of Memphis and Heliopolis which are near-by.  With one of the longest histories of any country, tracing its heritage along the Nile Delta back to the 6th–4th millennia BCE and considered to be the cradle of civilizations, Ancient Egypt saw some of the earliest developments of writing, agriculture, ubanization, organized religion and central government.

After getting picked up at the airport and checked into our hotel – The Four Seasons!  The following morning, we met with our Egyptologist, Assem and had a preview of some of the sites we might visit plus the beginning of lots of history we were to receive over the course of this trip.  After meeting together, there were about 24 in our group, we boarded the first of many bus trips to various sites.

The bus did a general tour of Cairo eventually finding its way to Old Citadel of Salah al-Din with the Alabaster Mosque of Muhammad Ali.  

Perched high upon a deep slope is the historical Salah-al Din Citadel, also known as the Cairo Citadel, is one of the most elegant fortresses of the Middle Ages, offering a bird’s eye view of the city. The citadel was intended to instill fear in and intimidate Crusaders who would dare to violate the city’s peace.  It was the seat of government in Egypt and the residence of its rulers for nearly 700 years from the 13th century until the 19th century. 

Situated within the overall Citadel complex is the Muhammad Ali Mosque.  Built by Muhammad Ali Pasha, who was the founder of modern Egypt and ruled Egypt between 1805 and 1848, built the Great Mosque inside the Citadel between 1832 and 1857. 

The inner courtyard with the fountain and clock

 It is one of the most visible mosques and landmarks in the City. Unlike the traditional Cairene architecture that preceded it, the mosque was built in an entirely Ottoman and European-influenced style, further setting it apart from other monuments. It is sometimes called the Alabaster Mosque due to the prominent use of alabaster as a covering for its walls.

After this visit, we headed to the Egyptian Museum, the oldest archaeological museum in the Middle East, which houses the largest collection of Pharaonic antiquities in the world.

The museum displays an extensive collection spanning from the Predynastic Period (5000 BCE) to the Greco-Roman Era (642 CE).  The museum was inaugurated in 1902 by Khedive Abbas Helmy II, and has become a historic landmark in downtown Cairo, and home to some of the world’s most magnificent ancient masterpieces.  This was our first exposure to the art, culture and history of Egypt.  

Janeen and Statue-of-King-Khafre

A whole row of Sarcophagus and other items – many of which celebrated the gods and were found in various tombs.

Funerary Masks – These two painted cartonnage masks were found in the tomb of Sennedjem. One of them belongs to his wife, lyneferti, and the other probably belongs to one of his daughters in law. These masks were placed over the mummified and wrapped face of the deceased in order to identify them and to protect the body.

The museum houses the splendid statues of the great kings Khufu, Khafre, and Menkaure, the builders of the pyramids at the Giza plateau and an extensive collection of papyri, sarcophagi and jewelry, and other objects.  

This skeleton was found buried near Nazlet Khater – Sohag. A young man who lived 35 thousand years ago, and it appears from his skeleton that he had enjoyed a distinguished height and strong body, one of his tools was discovered beside him.
Baking and bread making are represented b these figures found in various tombs. Very well made for sure.
Seated statues of Rahotep and Nofret Rahotep and his consort Nofret are represented seated on white cube-shaped thrones. Painted onto the back of the thrones are the couple’s names and titles in black hieroglyphs. Rahotep is identified as ‘king’s son, of his body, Rahotep. Combined with the location of Rahotep’s tomb north of King Sneferu’s, this suggests that he was Sneferu’s son a Peramid or Giza. 

Of course, one of the highlights was the ability to see some of Tutankhamun’s treasures (many are being moved to the Grand Egyptian Museum which we will see later in this trip).

Tutankhamun’s death mask – made from solid gold.
Solid gold chair for Tutankhamun. Beautiful.

After visiting the Museum we headed back to the Hotel for a relaxing evening.

Notre Dame de Paris

Our first trip to Europe was in the summer of 2004.  This included a couple of days in Paris.  Unfortunately, not knowing anything about France, we ending our visit around Bastille Day mid-July where it was usually HOT and extremely busy with many places closing to join in the celebration.  We did visit many of the important sites including getting to Notre-Dame de Paris.  However, on this visit, we didn’t go inside.  

These two pictures were taken during a visit in December 2018. Really difficult to see all the interior of the Cathedral.

Several years later we returned to Paris and finally went inside this monumental Cathedral.  On our return visits we always made a point of going inside and admiring the beauty of the place including a couple years, when we were in Paris for Christmas.  The interior always struck us as filled with art, beautiful stained- glass windows, but also quite dark.  Maybe it was the time of day we visited or the lack of sun coming into the interior, but the overall impression I had was it was dark.

In the Spring of 2019, we were traveling in Europe, first in the south of France and then into the Amsterdam to join a cruise ending in Switzerland, eventually finding our way back to Paris.  While we were traveling in Southern France, we learned of the fire at Notre-Dame de Paris.  

What ever caused the fire, it significantly damaged the Cathedral. The picture on the right highlights how much of the roof was destroyed.

We, along with all those we were in contact with, found it hard to believe that this centuries old Cathedral could be in ruins or damaged beyond repair.   In May, heading towards Giverny and Monet’s Garden we did have a moment to stand and look at the Cathedral with the protective fencing around it and the gaping hole in the roof.

A massive amount of scaffolding encasing the Cathedral

The main structure was intact; firefighters had saved the façade, towers, walls, buttresses, and stained-glass windows. The stone vaulting that forms the ceiling of the cathedral had several holes but was otherwise intact.  The Great Organ, which has over 8,000 pipes and was built by François Thierry in the 18th century was also saved but damaged by water.  Because of the renovation, that had been underway, the copper statues on the spire had been removed before the fire.  About 500 firefighters helped to battle the fire, President Emmanuel Macron said. 

Notre-Dame de Paris is a medieval Catholic cathedral on the Île de la Cité (an island in the River Seine), and has been a major part of the City since it was consecrated in the late 1100’s.  It has been considered one of the finest examples of French Gothic architecture. Several attributes set it apart from the earlierRomanesque style, including its pioneering use of the rib vault and flying buttress, its enormous and colorfulrose windows, and the naturalism and abundance of its sculptural decoration.  Notre-Dame is also exceptional for its three pipe organs (one historic) and its immense church bells.

 General Jean-Louis Georgelin, a French army officer, was chosen to head the restoration.  He ran the restoration with military precision – keeping the focus on the work and not allowing outside pressures (The Press was very difficult) to gum up the works.

Our first view of the interior were stunning

The official reopening on December 7 drew unprecedented international attention, with President Emmanuel Macron hosting presidents from 40 nations to celebrate this historic milestone. This extraordinary diplomatic assembly demonstrated the cathedral’s significance not just as a French monument, but as a symbol of global cultural heritage and international cooperation.

December 8 marked a profound spiritual milestone as archbishops, from across France and beyond, gathered for the first Mass in the restored cathedral.   On December 9, 2024, the Cathedral reopened to the public and we were some of the very lucky ones to have entrance to the Cathedral that day.  We arrived at our appointed time of 3:45, and after waiting in line for a bit, were allowed into the Cathedral.

The statuary, particularly the Pieta, behind the Alter has been marvelously cleaned – and a new contemporary alter installed.

First impression?  Light – light everywhere.  The interior of the place had been dramatically cleaned.  Remember, the place had not had a ‘bath’ for centuries and the candle smoke and other contaminates had darkened the interior dramatically.  

The ancient relic that many Christians revere as Jesus Christ’s “Crown of Thorns” — a circular band of branches encased in a gilded golden tube.

I am sorry I didn’t get all the names for the various chapels – they had all been throughly cleaned and were looking fantastic.

“The color of the restored interior will be “a shock” to some returning visitors, observed General Jean-Louis Georgelin, the French army officer heading the restoration.”  The interior elevations regained their original color, since the chapels and side aisles were very dirty. Of course, it is not a white color. The stone has a blonde color, and the architects are very attentive to obtaining a patina which respects the centuries. Although General Georgelin did not live to see the opening, he saw the dramatic results of his working groups effort.

For the festive season, an exceptional Neapolitan nativity scene takes up residence in Notre-Dame de Paris. An 18th-century masterpiece, it unveils 150 santons showcasing Italian craftsmanship and Christmas traditions.

There are two PBS Nova presentations that are quite interesting to watch:

We also experienced the power of the restored organ as we stayed for vespers.

For anyone who has ever visited Notre-Dame de Paris, I encourage you to return and see how wonderful it now looks.  

We were able to stay inside and walk around as long as we liked.  During our visit, a Vespers Service was held and as we were leaving a full Mass was getting started.  We were so pleased to have had the opportunity to see the Cathedral. 


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Claude Monet, Rouen Cathedral and a Christmas Market

Several years ago, I read Mad Enchantment: Claude Monet and the Painting of the Water Lilies by Ross King.  While this was really a focus on the water-lilies he painted, it did make me aware of Monet in a much different way and in particular his impressionist paintings of the Cathedral of Rouen.  Over the course of several years, Monet painted more then 30 different versions of the Cathedral during different times of day and periods of the year.  When Monet painted all of these impressions the Cathedral of Rouen was the tallest building in the world.  Unfortunately, I have no recollection of seeing any of the ones he did, at least one of which is in the National Gallery of Art in DC, but I did get to see the actual Cathedral. Our sunny day made the façade shine.

Rouen Cathedral is famous for its three towers, each in a different style. The cathedral, built and rebuilt over a period of more than eight hundred years, has features from Early Gothic to late Flamboyant and Renaissance architecture.  These towers are also famous for being the tallest in France with its 19th-century spire rising to just under 500 feet! 

The cathedral has a fine collection of stained glass from the 13th to the 20th century.

The stained-glass windows were installed progressively during the cathedral’s construction. One of the oldest examples is the booksellers’ rose in the north transept. 

A quite interesting site is the staircase that leads to the Cathedral Library – This late Gothic stair case was built, under the direction of archbishop William d’Estouteville, by Guillaume Pontis in 1480. The stairs used to lead to the Cathedral library which was situated just above the Flamboyant Gothic arched door. In 1788 another story was built above the library to hold the Cathedral records and the upper flights of stairs were added then.

However lovely the Cathedral is, we have been in a number of different ones over the last couple of months and we really wanted to spend some time in the Christmas Market so we didn’t tour the inside fully.

The Rouen Christmas market did not disappoint.  There were a number of stalls and lots of holiday decorations. The stall with UGG- like slippers and silk scarves also provided gifts and a story. The center city also provided a fine Vietnamese meal for Beth, David, Ryan, Christopher, and Janeen before heading to the car.

After the Market, as we headed back to our car, we passed under Gros-Horloge a 14th century astronomical clock. The clock is installed in a Renaissance arch crossing the Rue du Gros-Horloge. The mechanism is one of the oldest in France, the movement having been made in 1389.  

A fascinating piece of history.

Have you enjoyed our adventures? Please leave a comment and let us know!

Norte-Dame de Chartres

Once we left the river cruise, we traveled by train to Livarot France – where our son has a ‘gite’ (holiday home) and is developing a B&B operation.  (https://www.ledouetfleury.fr/en) Beth, our friend from Sonoma, joined us for several days.  She had never been to this part of France before and was anxious to see where our son and his husband, Christopher, lived.  Livarot is about 3 hours northwest of Paris.

Livarot-Pays-d’Auge, as it is officially known, is a commune in the department of Calvados and became the central municipality of the 22 former communes in January 2016.  With a population of just over 6,200 it is known for cheese – a major cheese plant is in the town producing the three main cheeses of Normandy – Livarot Cheese, Normandy Camembert and Pont-l’Eveque.  A free tour of the factory is available most days and Beth along with Christopher took the tour (I went a week or so later after Beth had left).  Livarot also has a large apple processing plant turning apples into juice and apple sauce.

After settling in for the evening, we gathered our resources and planned our next trip – to Norte-Dame de Chartres.  

The construction Chartres Cathedral started about 20 years after the more famous Cathedral in Paris (one of the other Norte-Dame Cathedrals).  Chartres is one of the best-known and most influential examples of High Gothic and Classic Gothic architecture,

It stands on a Romanesque basements, while its north spire is more recent (1507–1513) and is built in the more ornate flamboyant style.  Long renowned as “one of the most beautiful and historically significant cathedrals in all of Europe,” it was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1979, which called it “the high point of French Gothic art” and a “masterpiece”.


The Cathedral is well-preserved and well-restored: the majority of the original stained-glass windows survive intact, while the architecture has seen only minor changes since the early 13th century. The cobalt blue of the windows makes Chartres unique. The building’s exterior is dominated by heavy flying buttresses which allowed the architects to increase the window size significantly, while the west end is dominated by two contrasting spires – a 349 ft plain pyramid completed around 1160 and a 377 ft early 16th-century Flamboyant spire on top of an older tower. Equally notable are the three great façades, each adorned with hundreds of sculpted figures illustrating key theological themes and narratives.

Flying-buttress-supporting-the-upper-walls-and-counterbalancing-the-outward-thrust-of-the-vaulted-ceiling-allowing-thin-walls-and-greater-space-for-windows

One of the more interesting aspects of the Cathedral, which makes it stand out from others, is that it has a medieval labyrinth dating from the early 13th century on the floor.  The labyrinth is a stone inlay with only one path whereas a maze has a choice of paths.  

This labyrinth has 11 concentric circles and rounded sides with twists and turns to lead to the center and then back out and symbolizes the journey of Christ’s salvation. 

The entire area around the Cathedral is under construction making the area a pedestrian area only with paving stones replacing the roadway.  Unlike the other cathedrals we have visited during this adventure, there was NOT a Christmas Market happening which was nice.  

A simple nativity scene created inside the Cathedral.

There is extensive restoration happening both on the  exterior and interior of the building so there was scaffolding making it more difficult to see some of the features of the building.  Once inside, we picked up the audio guide and began our tour – it was one of the best audio tours I think we have had!  It described the Cathedral in detail and highlighted various areas.  

After completing our tour, we went across the ‘square’ and had a lovely lunch prior to heading back to Livarot.