Lover of Wine – Travel along on our adventures – DAVID & JANEEN

Several thousand years after the pyramids, which were constructed in the 26th century BCE, the Valley of the Kings was built to house the preserved bodies of the Pharaohs of the 16^th to 11th century BCE. This long narrow valley is just west of the Nile River in Upper Egypt. It was part of the ancient city of Thebes and was the burial site of almost all the kings (pharaohs) of the 18th, 19th, and 20th dynasties (1539–1075 BCE), from Thutmose I to Ramses X.

There, in tombs sunk deep into the heart of the mountain, pharaohs were interred, as were several queens, a few officials of high rank, and the numerous sons of Ramses II. The plan of the tombs varies considerably but consists essentially of a descending corridor interrupted by deep shafts to baffle robbers and by pillared chambers or vestibules. At the farther end of the corridor is a burial chamber with a stone sarcophagus in which the royal mummy was laid and store chambers around which furniture and equipment were stacked for the king’s use in the next world.  

The Valley of the Kings is most famous for the tomb of Tutankhamun which was discovered in 1922. It was the first, and only, tomb discovered that had not been pillaged.  It took ten years to record and remove its contents with a photographer producing a complete, detailed photographic record of the contents.  It was not until 2006, 84 years after the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb, that another tomb was discovered here bringing the total number of known sites to 65 tombs and chambers in the Valley of the Kings.

Rameses IV tomb – Just amazing how much the color still is vibrant and beautiful. Clearly a tomb that has seen a LOT of visitors. The shelf, Janeen is point at, where they placed 365 statues, intended to serve the King in the afterlife, one for each day.

Virtually all the tombs in the valley were cleared out in antiquity. Some had been partially robbed during the New Kingdom, but all were systematically looted of their contents in the 21st dynasty. In the time of Strabo (1st century BCE), Greek travelers were able to visit 40 of the tombs. Several tombs were reused by Coptic monks, who left their own inscriptions on the walls. Only the little tomb of Tutankhamun (reigned 1333–23 BCE), located on the floor of the valley and protected by a pile of rock chippings thrown down from a later Rameses side tomb, escaped pillage. The wonderful treasures that were exhumed from Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922 and that now reside in the Egyptian Museum in Cairo vividly indicate how rich the burial of a great pharaoh of the empire’s heyday must have been.

Once we arrived at the site, we got an overview of Rameses IV tomb and descended into the shaft.  The tomb is located low in the main valley and it has been open since antiquity and contains a large variety of graffiti from various ‘visitors’ over the centuries.  The tomb is mostly intact and is decorated with scenes from the Litany of Ra, Book of Caverns, Book of the Dead, Book of Amduat and the Book of the Heavens.  The tomb was laid out along a straight axis about 290 feet in length and consists of three slowly descending corridors. At the end is an enlarged chamber, and then the burial chamber. Past the burial chamber is a narrow corridor flanked by three side chambers. 

Next up was the Tomb of Tutankhamen. Upon Tutankhamen’s death at about age 19 (reign c. 1333-1323 BCE), an existing tomb was hastily adapted for his burial. Only the Burial Chamber was painted, depicting scenes of his journey into the afterlife.

Now over 3,300 years old, the paintings have remarkably little loss and the original colors are still vibrant.  Today, only the mummy of the king, the outermost of his three nested coffins, and the stone sarcophagus and its lid remain in the tomb. The other objects found in the tomb upon its discovery in 1922 were removed to Cairo

Our third, and last tomb, was the final resting place of the 20th-Dynasty Pharaoh Ramesses IX.  It has been suggested, from the archaeological evidence and the quality of decoration it contains, that the tomb was not finished at the time for Ramesses’s death but was hastily rushed through to completion, many corners being cut, following his demise.  Located in the central part of the Valley, it has been open since antiquity and also shows graffiti from various visitors. 

The ceiling is vaulted, and is decorated with splendid pictures of the goddess Nut. The side walls show scenes from the Book of Caverns and the Book of the Earth.  The far wall depicts Ramesses on his barque, surrounded by a host of gods. The yellows, dark blues, and blacks used to decorate this chamber are visually striking and unusual among the tomb decorations in the Valley.

On the left, a croc crocodile in a boat, and on the right, in his celestial ascension, the king traverses vast oceans, accompanied by a pantheon of deities.

You cannot visit the Valley of the Kings and not be blown away by the artistry that is depicted in all the tombs or the amount of work that was required to make these spaces.  If the items left with Tutankhamen is representative of what would have been left within each tomb, it is quite amazing.  Of course, it’s very clear that while each King tried to protect his tomb as much as possible, the workers who built it and who eventually placed the king in his final resting spot knew where it was and how to access it so, predictably they would return and pick up a trinket or two for sure.

Each day, we would go out early and visit a monument of one sort of another.  At each and every one we had to pass what we began to call “The Valley of the Vultures”.  

This walkway was always filled with vendors selling the same exact stuff at each stop!  While they would say it was “made in Eqypt”, the proper comment might really be “sold in Eqypt”.  Sure, there were some stalls that had ‘real’ Eqyptian cotton t-shirts and other appear but not many.  

The key to getting through all of this was to not make eye contact, don’t interact in any way as it only encouraged them. If you might say “Maybe on the way back” they would watch for you and bug you to follow up on your promise to get something on the way out.

There were exceptions to this, particularly when our bus stopped at specific places where they had previously made arrangements for us to visit – always with an eye toward quality items.  We were always given a demonstration of how their products were made and offered quality items for sale.  One example was a visit to Abo El Komsan, a store and manufacture of stone items that has been a cornerstone of Egypt’s natural stone industry for decades, specializing in the extraction, refinement, and global distribution of alabaster, basalt, and granite.  Alabaster, in particular, is a stone revered since ancient times for its ethereal translucency and soft, warm glow. Historically used in Egyptian tombs, canopic jars, and sculptures, alabaster remains a symbol of luxury and artistry.

Lois was a great sport trying to drill out the center of this stone block

We started out at the entrance where we were shown how the stone was worked and rough shaped into various items.  

Inside, there was a large display area with beautiful items all around.

At each of our shop visits, they offered a beverage. At the Alabaster shop it included coke’s in the bottle. Well, as I have only one skill, I had to stack them as I’ve done many times.

I admit, it is always amazing to see the reaction when I do this…all of a sudden there were cameras clicking away! Clearly a trick not previously seen.

These items were all hand-made and beautiful.  Yes, we did purchase a few items to take home.

Another stop was a carpet weaver – the Akhnaton Carpet School! They provide space, looms and material for families to continue this “cottage industry” weaving carpets. Each family learns a pattern and passes it on to the children, who spend time between school and vacations weaving.

What a great concept. We toured their awesome facility and saw the process from spinning the silk from the silk worms, to the actual looping of the carpets. It was inspiring watching the young children creating such unique masterpieces.  While we thought about picking up a carpet (silk, wool and cotton styles all available) we couldn’t think of where it would go.  Another time maybe.

Fortunately, overall, we were able to limit our purchases – after all, we have to fly home someday and all of this would add bulk to our suitcases!

Two days ago, we visited the Karnak Temple and today we are visiting its neighbor, the Luxor Temple.  Between these two temples is a two-kilometer (8,900 ft) processional way which connects the two temples.  Along the avenue are 1050 sphinx statues.  Construction of the Avenue began during the New Kingdom era and was completed during the Late period during the reign of 30th Dynasty ruler Nectanebo I (380–362 BCE).  The road was buried under layers of sand over the centuries and a variety of structures were built over the road without anyone knowing of its existence.  

The first trace of the avenue was found in 1949 when Egyptian archaeologist discovered eight statues near the Luxor Temple with 17 more statues uncovered from 1958 to 1961 and an additional 55 unearthed from 1961 to 1964. From 1984 to 2000, the entire route of the walkway was finally determined, leaving it to excavators to uncover the road. On 25 November 2021, the avenue was opened to the public having concluded restoration works that took over seven decades to complete.

Our visit to the Luxor Temple was in the evening, under the stars with the temple lit up. The night visit emphasizes the grandeur of the architecture as seen by the shadows.  Constructed approximately 1400 BCE, it is unlike the other temples in Thebes, as Luxor temple is not dedicated to a cult god or a deified version of the pharaoh in death. Instead, Luxor temple is dedicated to the rejuvenation of kingship; it may have been where many of the pharaohs of Egypt were crowned in reality or conceptually. Ramses II required his head priest to walk the sphinx path each morning bearing the inner sanctum statue, a show of Pharoah power.

Towards the rear of the temple are chapels built by Amenhotep III of the 18th Dynasty (1550 to 1292 BCE), and Alexander (356 BCE – 323 BCE). Other parts of the temple were built by Tutankhamun and Ramesses II. Alexander the Great came to worship Egyptian deities, and a carved figure of him presenting gifts was seen in the inner sanctum.

During the Roman era (30 BCE to CE 641), the temple and its surroundings were a legionary fortress and the home of the Roman government in the area. During the Roman period a chapel inside the Luxor Temple, originally dedicated to the goddess Moot, known as “the mother”, was transformed into a Tetrarchy cult chapel and later into a Coptic church. Many deity carvings were defaced to use the courtyard for Christian services, and plaster covered one wall to hold a Last Supper painting.

The courtyard was filled in even later and a mosque, Abu El-Haggag, built on top of it. The door of the mosque is visible above from the excavated courtyard.

With our days events coming to an end, we headed back to the ship for a relaxing evening and to get ready for our next adventure the following morning.

Our first night on board the ship, S.S. Sphinx we sailed along the Nile to Dendera – about 45 miles from Luxor.  Along the way we spent some time on the sun deck looking around and seeing what happens along the river.  Most of the area between Luxor and Dendera is basically empty – yes, there were pockets of small communities and some very large banana plantations but mostly open countryside.  The desert is never far from the river for sure.  

The following morning, bright and early (which became the norm for this adventure) we boarded our bus and went to the Temple of Hathor.  The Dendera Temple complex is one of the best-preserved temple complexes of ancient Egypt. The entirety of the complex is surrounded by a sizable mudbrick wall which was originally installed to protect the complex from the flood waters of the Nile.

An oasis on the banks of the Nile, Dendera was inhabited by thousands at its peak. Due to its massive size, the structures throughout the complex were constructed over many eras, such as the Middle Kingdom, the Ptolemaic Era, and the period characterized by Roman provincial rule. There is evidence that there was an even earlier building on this site, circa 2250 B.C.E., which could have begun during the reign of Pepi I and completed during the reign of his son, Merenre Nemtyemsaf I. 

If there is one structure that commands the attention of those who visit, it is the Temple of Hathor. The original temple structure underwent continuous modifications throughout the Middle Kingdom and up until the beginning of the reign of the Roman emperor Trajan. The existing temple’s structure began construction in 54 B.C.E, the late Ptolemaic period, under the reign of Ptolemy Auletes. The hypostyle hall was built in the Roman period under Tiberius.

The God Hathor, who is honored by this temple, was among the most important and popular deities in ancient Egypt. She was associated with music, joy, dance and motherhood; she was also known as the lady of the sky. The complex in Dendera was the main cult center to honor this God.   

Even after a couple thousand years, the Temple is one of the most colorful in Egypt, with an intricately detailed ceiling and one of the most awe-inspiring hypostyle halls that we saw in Egypt.    

This is the inner most room of the Temple and would have been the most holy. Decorations on all the walls and ceilings were amazing.

The building is fully roofed and has been for centuries. This gargoyle was on the exterior of the building. Beautiful carved.

The scene portrays Cleopatra VII, the last Greek ruler of Egypt, and her son Caesarion making offerings to the goddess. The only know depiction of Cleopatra

After getting back to the Ship, it set sail to return to Luxor to stage for tomorrow’s adventures.  However, once we were underway, I was able to get a tour of some of the spaces not normally open.  We started in the Bridge to meet the Capitan and from there went to the Engine Room, Laundry and finally the Kitchen.

After my tour it was time to just relax and enjoy cursing along – heading back to Luxor for tomorrows adventures

Bright and early the following morning we packed up all our belongings and headed to the airport for a short flight to Luxor. 

 Located on the east bank of the Nile River, in southern Egypt, is the site of ancient Thebes, the pharaohs’ capital at the height of their power, during the 16th–11th centuries BCE. Today, the city surrounds 2 huge, surviving ancient monuments: graceful Luxor Temple and Karnak Temple, a mile north, both of which we will see on this adventure.  Luxor is also the stopping off point to visit the royal tombs in the Valley of the Kings and the Valley of the Queens on the river’s west bank.

Upon arrival, even before heading to the ship, we visited the Temple of Karnak.

The Karnak Temple Complex, commonly known as Karnak, comprises a vast mix of temples, pylons, chapels, and other buildings.  The original name of the temple was Ipet-isut, meaning “The Most Select of Places”.  The complex’s modern name “Karnak” comes from the nearby village of el-Karnak, which means “fortified village”.

The number and size of the columns was amazing. Originally the entire space would have been covered with a stone roof, only a small portion of the roof remains. Virtually all of the columns were carved and had an abundance of hieroglyphic writing.

The complex is a vast open site and includes a number of structures and monuments. It is believed to be the second most visited historical site in Egypt; only the Giza pyramid complex near Cairo receives more visits. Consisting of four main parts, only the largest is currently open to the public. 

The key difference between Karnak and most of the other temples and sites in Egypt is the length of time over which it was developed and used. Construction of temples started in the Middle Kingdom and continued into Ptolemaic times. Approximately thirty pharaohs contributed to the buildings, enabling it to reach a size, complexity, and diversity not seen elsewhere. Few of the individual features of Karnak are unique, but the size and number of features are vast. The deities represented range from some of the earliest worshiped to those worshiped much later in the history of the Ancient Egyptian culture. 

Obelisk’s are made from solid granite while most of the other structures are made from sandstone or limestone

The Great Hypostyle Hall, where we spent a good deal of time, is about an area of 50,000 sq ft with 134 massive columns arranged in 16 rows. One hundred and twenty-two of these columns are 33 ft tall, and the other 12 are 69 ft tall with a diameter of over 9.8 ft. The architraves, on top of these columns, are estimated to weigh 70 tons.  There is an unfinished pillar that indicates how it would have been finished with finishing and carvings being completed from the top down.  It was suggested blocks were stacked to make columns and then sand put around them so the workers could get to the top to finish smoothing the columns and make the carvings.  As they worked down, the sand was removed.

Many depictions of Gods and Kings on the walls. Here one is making an offering.

It is amazing to see all of these structures with the carvings and some color visible after all the centuries they have been in place.  

After completing our visit to Karnak we headed to our boat, the S.S. Sphinx.  Our home for the next week entered into the UniWorld fleet in 2021 and can accommodate as many as 84 guests.  However, our current group was 55 or so, lots of room to move around.  

While there is a pool on the sundeck, we never took a dip while we were on board. However, we enjoyed multiple sunny afternoons sailing on the Nile from this area. A grilled lunch was prepared for eating on the sundeck during one sailing.