Month: June 2023

Back to Amsterdam and docked at the same place we started.  However, there were still mysteries to discover and this morning was no different.  After breakfast, we boarded the bus and headed out to the old gas factory of Amsterdam.  

Westergas, as it is called, has become a meeting place for culture in all shapes and sizes.  The historical site, built in 1880 as a gas factory, has been made into a lively cultural village and a haven for artistic endeavors.  During the year, there are music and theater events along with film and photography exhibits.   

The place is made of a number of large brick buildings with restaurants, coffee shops, art shops intersperced with exhibit spaces.

Once we were parked, our destination was to see the Fabrique des Lumières, the largest digital art center in the Netherlands. 

Fabrique des Lumières, is an immersive digital art center located in the Westergas park. We were the first group to enter the exipbit area which is a large industrial space with walls up to 55 feet high with wide open space between the walls.  

They have taken the works of Salvador Dali and digitized them for projection on the wall.  The works come to life as they move across all the surfaces – floor, walls and the ceiling.  

As they come to life, the music of Pink Floyd is played doing a good job of melding together.  The displays moved, morphed and drifted around as we watched.  As you moved through the building, the presentations were different and the experience changed with time.

After about 45 minutes of Dali, it changes to images from the Catalan (Spanish) architect Antoni Gaudi.  Gaudi, who is most famous for designing the a number of buildings in the area of Barcelona Spain, however, the one that might be the best know is the Sagrada Familia Cathedral. 

The presentation of Gaudi was wonderfully filled with colors and shapes.

After the presentation was completed, we were back on the bus and back to the boat for to board a Canal Boat for a trip through the various canals of Amsterdam.

Amsterdam has more than 62 miles of canals, resulting in about 90 islands and 1,500 bridges. The three main canals (Gentlemen’s, Prince’s and Emperor’s), all dug in the 17th century during the Dutch Golden Age, form concentric belts around the city, known as the Canal District. Alongside the canals are more then 1500 monumental buildings with many of them listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites.

The city was founded around 1250 with the building of the dam on the Amstel River, thus becoming Amsterdam – “The Dam on the River Amstel”.  The first canals were dug for water management and defense. As the city expanded, in the Middle Ages, successive defense moats ended up inside the walls and lost their function but they acquired an important new one: local transport of merchandise.

Our canal boat motored through a good portion of the canal system where were able to see not only the various buildings along the canal but a number of houseboats along the way.  We did motor by the house Anne Frank House – always with a line to get in and see the place (alas, not included in our trip this time…).

Once the boat ride was completed, back to the Ship for lunch, packing and our next adventure.  There was another adventure in the afternoon, but we did a pass – so it won’t be reported.

As tonight was our last night of the Mystery Cruise, there was a lovely dinner and entertainment and goodbyes said all around.  It has been a wonderful adventure and has shown us new and different spots around the Netherlands.  The Mystery Cruise was a huge success which seemed to be the general opinion of those we spoke to with many wanting to know when the next adventure was going to happen!

Over the course of the Mystery Cruise, you may have noticed I’ve taken a selfie with Barbara from time to time. Barbara is the UniWorld person directly responsible for the Mysteries we have experienced both this year and last. It was her job to find new and exciting things to do that were NOT on the normal river cruise itinerary and I believe she has succeeded wonderfully. So, once I new who she was, I got started taking selfies with here during the Mystery Cruise we took last year where I took something like 60 selfies with her – so naturally I had to do it all over again. Here’s just a sampling of some of those pictures from this cruise.

Needless to say, we had a lot of fun taking these pictures and they bring back very fond memories. Thank you Barbara for all the good adventures on this years Mystery Cruise!

Tomorrow, Tuesday, after getting off the ship and saying our final good byes to the crew we will be boarding a train to Paris! And begin the next part of our journey – time with family and wonderful places to visit.

We left Maastricht and motored all evening until we reached Cuijk.  This is a town in the northeastern part of the province of North Brabant in the Netherlands.  It resulted from a Roman settlement on the west bank of the river Meuse and has a population of just under 20,000.  As this was Sunday, there really wasn’t a lot to do anywhere and the Mystery Cruise found a small windmill, a brewer to taste some beers and monastery to visit in this town.

The original windmill was constructed in 1860 and was operated for generations of the same family grinding grain for the local farmers. 

Over the years things hadn’t been maintained and in early 2000 it was fully restored using parts from dismantled windmills around the country.  In 2012, the municipality of Cuijk took over the mill and it is now operated, under a lease arrangement, by the grandson of the last full time miller. 

The stairs where a bit steep and worn for sure – but Janeen was able to peek at the top of the stairs.

While visiting the windmill, we also samples 4 or 5 beers produced in the local Monastery.  Apparently, these brewers are one of the last brewers making beer in an operating Monastery.  Beer has been brewed in Brabant since time immemorial by monks and in the area around Land operated by the Monks of St. Agatha.  The current brew masters are all volunteers and are trying to take the new beer, Toebes, in such a way to the revive the historic craft, and give a new dimension to the experience of a cozy special beer.  The brewery combines nostalgic flavors with current trends. They have designed and built a 300-liter brew kettle ourselves. They brew many different beers and take the season into account. A good beer starts with a good one raw materials, and Toebes opts for biological malts and hops for the beer.

After visiting at the Windmill, onto the bus and off to the Monastery for a quick walk around. 

The Monastery of Saint Agatha was founded around 1371 with many missionaries being trained in this monastery.  It is the oldest inhabited monastery in the Netherlands, although there are fewer than a dozen residents. 

 

In June 2006, after a renovation of the monastery, some rooms were taken into use by the Center for Dutch Monastic Life, which houses the heritage collections of many monastic communities. The Center chiefly houses monastic archive documents, but also preserves and provides access to related books and artifacts.  The Order of the Holy Cross themselves also house their heritage collections in Saint Agatha.  There was a small chapel and library.  One of their significant areas is a collection of books – many written by the Monks during the early years and are available for scholars to review and research.

We finished up with Antwerp and began our journey to the town of Maastricht – a city on the southern tip of the Netherlands.  Maastricht was developed from a Roman settlement with a medieval river trade and religious center. In the 16th century it became a garrison town and in the 19th century an early industrial center.  

The place is distinguished by its medieval-era architecture and vibrant cultural scene.  A major claim to fame resulted from site where the Maastricht Treaty which, was the originating document that has resulted in the European Union, was signed here.  It is also considered to be the birthplace of the euro (currency).  Maastricht has 1677 national heritage buildings, the second highest number in the Netherlands, after Amsterdam. The city is visited by tourists for shopping and recreation, and has a large international student population.

We started a walking tour just off the boat and past many of the historic points. 

Certainly not as vibrant as Amsterdam or some larger cities in the Netherlands, it is never the less brimmed filled with nice shops, restaurants and things to see.

Nice shops and a small mill along the way.

Our late morning ‘treat’ was provide in a the Kruisherenhotel Maastricht a grand hotel which was developed using a former monastery and adjoining Gothic church.  The setting was lovely and the central courtyard, where we had our ‘treat’ was beautifully decorated.  After our treat of “Limburgse vlaai” we returned to the ship for the afternoon. 

Dinner was off the ship in a Michelin-starred Château Neecanne a few minutes outside of the city center.  The Château Neercanne has a panoramic view across the Jeker Valley and straddles two countries – Belgium and The Netherlands. 

Renowned for its restaurant, it also houses a network of Marl Caves offering a unique venue for our evening’s meal. 

The dinner was excellent.

After dinner, back to the boat and an evening of entertainment and good times.

Belgian chocolate – Today we ventured into Antwerp to visit the Chocolate Nation.  A large building which celebrates all things chocolate – ok, really Belgian Chocolate.

Why Antwerp for the home base for Chocolate Nation? It all started with the first chocolate factory of Belgium, which opened in 1831 in Antwerp. Belgian chocolate, as you may already be aware, is highly regarded to the present day, in particular thanks to the craftsmanship of Octave Callebaut.

 Established in 1911 by Octave Callebaut in Wieze, Belgium, his chocolate company used the same factory building his grandfather Eugène Callebaut founded as a family-run brewing and milling company called ‘De Ploeg’ in 1850.

Octave Callebaut’s chocolate recipes quickly found liking by numerous chocolatiers, bakers and pastry chefs. As a result, Chocolaterie Callebaut PLC was established in 1930. A clear focus towards the professional market took shape and the company from then on dedicated its activities to supplying and servicing chocolatiers, confectioners and bakeries.

 Using Callebaut as the beginning point, the Chocolate nation does feature the history of many other brands and artisans.  While in Brussels, we learned the history of Jean Neuhaus who developed the praline in 1918 – a decadent chocolate cream ganache center inside a chocolate shell, the original filled chocolate.  I confess, that we really like Neuhaus Chocolate and have had friends who are visiting Belgium bring some for us. Our visit started with an overview of the cocoa plantations at the equator and followed the cocoa bean to the world’s largest storage port of cocoa in Antwerp. A giant fantasy machine demonstrates how chocolate is made and how the velvety taste is created. Along the way, of course, there were samples to taste displays to see and questions to be asked and answered.

Going from room to room we were told short snappy bits of information about the production of cocoa and making of chocolate.  At the outset, we were each given a small handheld audio device which we use to scan various points in each room for more information or descriptions.   It is a simple museum, with lots of information, and took about 1 1/2 hours to go through. At one point, we were given a small spoon and allowed to taste various melted chocolate, from white to rose to milk to dark. Using the spoon, we could go round the room tasting the chocolate, sometimes several times over! Yummy

 Naturally, after the tour, we ended up in the gift shop which had LOTS of different selections to choose from – but where do you stop?  How much chocolate does one family need?  It seems the answer to this question is “a lot”.

 

OK, we had CHOCOLATE and now it was time for a walking tour with a snack stop along the way.  Back on the bus and off to the parking lot for a walk around (not in) the Het Steen.  

This is a medieval fortress in the old city center of Antwerp and was built between 1200 and 1225 as a gateway to a larger castle of the Dukes of Brabant which was demolished in the 19th century. As the first stone fortification of Antwerp, Het Steen is Antwerp’s oldest building and used to be part of its oldest urban center. The words “Het Steen”, translated from Dutch mean “the rock” in English.

From here we wandered around the old part of the town on our way to the City Center and our snack waffles.  Our stop was to be The Waffle House in the center of town next to the church.    Based on the receipts of their grandmother, four siblings joined forces and opened the shop in 2018 and have been pushing out waffles ever since.  We had the option of cherries, banana’s or strawberries on our waffles – along with a dollop of wipped cream.

After or treat, Janeen and I wander around looking for the perfect gift to take home.  

She was able to find a couple and back to the bus we went.     

Thursday morning – a beautiful day in Rotterdam.  Our adventure today was to prove very interesting and different.  First off, we loaded onto our coach and did a quick tour of the city ending up in the more or less downtown area.  From here we headed to the roof of a building to see what they are doing on it and to view the city in general.

Many of the buildings are relatively new, as the city of Rotterdam was pretty much destroyed in WW II,so there are not as many historical buildings to visit.  As the skyline has developed, there is a movement afoot to do something productive with the roofs and try and recapture some of the rain water that falls.  Our adventure today was to see what is happening on a couple of these roofs and to learn about the progress they are making in reclaiming rainwater.

Our first stop was on top of a seven-story building where a garden has been created.  We took the elevator to the top, plus some stairs, and found a coffee shop with the ‘garden’ around it.   Called Op Het Dak, it is quite a unique spot.  The indoor area, which seats about 45 people, leads out to a green and lush rooftop terrace where organic vegetables, edible flowers and herbs are complemented with dining tables and a great view of the Rotterdam skyline.

After visiting the roof, we stopped on the first floor (2nd floor for those of you in the US, as the ground floor of buildings in Europe are “0” not 1) where we went out onto a walkway that crossed over the street, went around another building that included a section to the old railway area.   The old railway station and the tracks are being modified to create a green area with various trees, bushes, flowers and other lovely spots.    

Sitting about 20 feet above street level, the narrowest and longest roof park in the Netherlands is being designed. Hopefully the final design will be inviting and be filled with colorful and fragrant landscape.

It is being constructed on the old rail line where the old train tracks will route visitors through the diverse landscapes of the park, hopefully connecting various neighborhoods in the area.  The “airpark” will offer space for walking, relaxing, grabbing a cup of coffee or a bite to eat, and even community gardening. Still very much a work in progress it reminded us of the New York’s High Line Park which was created from old elevated train tracks.

On the way back to the boat, I noticed this wall painting going on. I don’t think anyone else on the bus noticed it, or at least they didn’t mention anything. Kinda neat really.

After visiting the various gardens we headed back to the boat for some R&R and to get ready for our “Orange” night.

Orange is the national color of the Netherlands, for the House of Orange-Nassau that has been the reigning monarch here for nearly 500 years.  It’s common to wear orange at national celebrations such as King’s Day (April 27th each year).  The Mystery Cruise decided to have its own little Orange Party and it includes a Silent Disco in the Lounge.

Everyone was given a headset – and there were three different music channels to choose from. Thus, if you start to sing along, it could very well be a different song from what someone next to you is listening to. Very funny at times.

Tomorrow we head to Antwerp to have some chocolate!

Tuesday nights ‘reveal’ had Rik dressed up as Johannes Vermeer and Barbara dressed up as the subject of The Girl with the Pearl Earring, one of Vermeer’s most famous painting. So, that meant we were on our way to The Hague and a visit to the Mauritshuis Museum.

As were leaving the port, we pasted by the Noah’s Ark – see the giraffe on the right side…not sure where it was found, but it seems to be fairly intact.

During the morning sailing, Rik did a presentation on the history of the Netherlands and the various components that make up the country.   After lunch, we boarded the coach for a trip into town with a brief stop to sample a local treat – some ‘pancakes’ at Restaurant Oma Toos.  These light fluffy pancakes sprinkled with powdered sugar were very tasty and a nice treat.

Before going to the museum, there was a short walking tour highlighting some of the area around the museum including a stop at the Peace Palace. One of the most photographed buildings in The Hague and the icon when it comes to peace and justice is the Peace Palace.  The donation from Andrew Carnegie from the US resulted in the founding of the Carnegie Foundation in 1`903 and the creation of the Peace Palace.

There was also some interesting street art installations.

The art museum in The Hague houses the Royal Cabinet of Paintings which consists of over 800 objects – mostly Dutch Golden Age paintings.  These include works by Vermeer, Rembrandt, Jan Steen and others.  Originally the 17^th century building was the residence of count John Maurice of Nassau.  It is now the property of the government and is listed in the top 100 Dutch heritage sites.

Johannes Vermeer, lived from the early 1630’s until his death in 1675.  He created paintings that are among the most beloved and revered images in the history of art.  Although only about 36 of his paintings survive, these rare works are among the greatest treasures in the world’s museums.  Vermeer began his career in the early 1650’s by painting large-scale biblical and mythological scenes, but most of his later paintings – the ones for which he is most famous – depict scenes of daily life in interior settings. These works are remarkable for their purity of light and form, qualities that convey a serene, timeless sense of dignity. Vermeer also painted cityscapes and allegorical scenes.

Clearly the hightlight of the museum, at least for our group, was The Girl with a Pearl Earring.  It is an oil painting on canvas which was completed around 1665. It depicts an imaginary young woman in exotic dress and a very large pearl earring.  

The painting represents a young woman in a dark shallow space, an intimate setting that draws the viewer’s attention exclusively on her. She wears a blue and gold turban, the titular pearl earring, and a gold jacket with a visible white collar beneath. Unlike many of Vermeer’s subjects, she is not concentrating on a daily chore and unaware of her viewer. Instead, caught in a fleeting moment, she turns her head over her shoulder, meeting the viewer’s gaze with her eyes wide and lips parted as if about to speak. Her enigmatic expression coupled with the mystery of her identity has led some to compare her to the equivocal subject in Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa  (c. 1503–19). Unlike the Mona Lisa, however, Girl with a Pearl Earring is not a portrait but a tronie, a Dutch term for a character or type of person. 

There are a number of very interesting works in the museum including several by Rembrandt including The Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Nicolaes Tulp in 1632, an interesting painting of two African men from 1661 and a self-portrait completed the same year he died in 1669.

After our visit to the museum, we went back to the boat and relaxed for the evening. 

Monday evening, after the ride back, from visiting the Coster Diamonds and Cobra Art we settled in for the evening on the Ship.  Before leaving Amsterdam however, we had a leaving celebration with a group of musicians playing on the dock – a drums and bugle group playing some wonderful calypso music.  Barbara and Rik dressed for the occasion and the whole group of us went to the sun deck to appreciate the music and entertainment.  Our ship sailed and off we went for our next port of call. 

 After the departing entertainment, we went back to the lounge for the reveal for the next day – a visit to Vlieland.  This would mean sailing all night, arriving early the next morning.  We woke up in the the port of Harlingen for our day’s adventure.  Looking out the window, I noticed a ‘whale’ across the harbor. 

As part of an international art project in 2018, fountains were placed in the eleven cities (or villages) each designed by a different artist from eleven different countries. The whale in Harlingen is one of the 11. It is located between the pier and the quay by the harbor. Once in a while you will see the whale blows water through its blow hole. As the water was a little bit lower than normal, you will see the whale was above the water.

Once we left the ship, we walked over to the ferry which would take us on the 90-minute trip to Vlieland.  The Island of Vlieland is known for its peaceful nature and many sand dunes.  It is located in the northern Netherlands and is the second least populated municipality in the Netherlands.  Our adventure had two options – a bike ride or a drive on the beach.  Needless to say, we chose the drive on the Beach. As we left the ship, the bike riders went in one direction and we boarded a bus for a quick ride to where our transport awaited.

The Vliehors Express makes trips over the sand desert which is some 20 square kilometers on the west side of Vlieland.  The Vliehors is also called the Sahara of the North due to the size of the area covered in sand.  Our transport was a converted military truck with extra wide tires.  Along the way, we were on the look-out for seals, but alas non were in evidence during our trip.  The highlight of the trip, beyond the unique adventure, was a visit to the Reddingshuisje or rescue cottage located in the middle of the sand dunes.   

The cottage dates from 1890 and was built here as a shelter for shipwrecked sailors. If a ship was wrecked during a storm, and survivors were able to make it to shore, they could reach the striking white house where blankets, basic foodstuffs and water were stored. There was also a telephone connection to a post house more than five miles away to alert someone of their presence at the place. After the storm had subsided, they were then picked up by horse and cart.  Nowadays the house is furnished with all kinds of things that were found during beachcombing. 

The fence is also made of driftwood and buoys. Everything that has washed up on the beach can be admired here, from cigarettes to messages in a bottle – small items stored inside the ‘house’ while lots of stuff arranged around the driftwood fence.

Since 1997, the rescue house has been one of the official wedding locations on Vlieland. This unique wedding location has been in the top 10 of the most beautiful locations worldwide for several years.  Inside the house, those who have been married in the house are allowed to write their names on the wall and ceilings.

After our visit to the rescue house we went back to where we boarded to reconnect with our biking friends and have lunch.  

After lunch, we walked through the village and visited various spots – of course including a gift shop or two.  

Once completed, we were to the ferry and back to our ship for the evening’s entertainment the ‘reveal’ of the next adventure.

On Sunday, we joined our second UniWorld Mystery Cruise adventure on board the River Queen in Amsterdam.  As was the case last year, when we went on our first Mystery Cruise, we had no prior knowledge of what was to happen beyond the cruise would start and end in Amsterdam.  

After getting checked in and partially unpacked, we joined our fellow traveller’s in the lounge for the ‘big reveal’ – what was to happen the next day.  

The Captain, and members of his staff, performed the required safety briefing and provided general information about the ship.  Once that was completed, Rik, the cruise director, continued the information ending with the ‘big reveal’ which was Barbara coming to the stage with a diamond tiara and a sparking red gown and a diamond topped staff.  

Seems we were to visit one of the foremost diamond houses in the world – Coster Diamonds is one of the world’s oldest and most trusted diamond factory has a rich and compelling history. Royal Coster Diamonds has been around for a long time, dating back to at least 1840.  I asked if there would be free samples, but alas, no there won’t be – however, I was told they do take credit cards.

The following morning, gathering together on the coach, we took a short ride to the Coster Diamond home in Amsterdam.  

As we entered the building, we watched two workers polishing diamonds.  Polishing, or faceting, uses a cast iron disc which rotates at 3200 rps and is impregnated with diamond dust and olive oil.  The diamond is set in an adjustable ‘dop’ and pressed against the disc.  The angle of the diamond must be changed for each facet.  Naturally he more facets results in a higher cost – and waste.

During the tour, our guide explained everything you may want to know about the mystical world of diamonds. He spoke about the origins of diamonds and the process a diamond goes through once it has been retrived from the ground. While we have learned about diamonds over the years, the four basic criteria hasn’t changed on how to evaluate a diamond – the 4 C’s carat, cut, clarity and color. There are a number of levels within each category each impacting the final quality and of course cost of the diamond.  There is so much more to know and appreciate about a diamond than just the sparkle. 

A regular brilliant diamond has 57 facets, while this unique diamond cut, of Royal Coster’s own patented diamond has no less than 201 facets. These extra facets make the light reflect even more within the diamond and creates a sparkling effect that is no match for any other diamond shape in the world.

During the presentation, our guide pulled a number of diamonds to share (they never left his sight) from very small to one that was 4 carats.  

After showing us a bunch of diamonds, champagne was presented.  In each glass was a very small ‘stone’.  The surprise, of course, was that one of these stones was a very small diamond.  

 Not sure what it was worth but a very nice souvenir of the experience.  Needless to say, we didn’t get the glass with the diamond.

Naturally, on the way out, there was a gift shop.  Fortunately, only post cards jumped out to find their way into Janeen’s bag.  I was ready to spend BIG but she wasn’t interested.  Maybe next time.

After our diamond adventure, we walked a few short blocks to the Cobra Art Company (www.cobraamsterdam.com).  This family business, started in 1983, is operated by Leon Jonkman – who just happens to be the husband of our Cruise Director, Rik.  This wonderful spot has a number of very interesting works including works printed on plexiglass and other materials.  

The place was filled with paintings, various objects and sculptures.  There were some very interesting displays and reminded me somewhat of the works we have by Jeff Burke (https://www.jtburke.com)  – who does photographic artwork in his studio in Pasadena.  In-addition to getting to enjoy the wonderful art, we had some very delicious snacks which Rik had made!  Seems Rik became quite the baker during the lock down and was amongst the finalist for the Dutch version of the Great Bakeoff.  

After our visit, we went to the trolly stop and boarded an historic tram for our journey back to the boat.  

Our local Guide did a great job describing all the neighborhoods we travel and some of the historical links to the past.

We have started another adventure.  On Friday, we departed from Richmond Airport to Boston – where we had a 7-hour layover before heading to Amsterdam.  This was the first leg of our trip.  We arrived in Amsterdam Saturday morning – dropped our bags off at our hotel and got ourselves to the Van Gogh Museum.  We took the train to the Central Station and started walking towards the Museum. 

 I had remembered all the bicycles but it always an amazing surprise to see so many and with so many different configurations.  

Over the last several years, we have seemed to be following Van Goh around.  While on a River Cruise, in 2019, we visited several places he had lived – most notably in a small village in the Brabant region of the southern Netherlands where he lived with his parents – and painted a number of images.  One of the most well know, is the Potato Eaters – which has been recreated in bronze in the village square. 

 Additionally, we visited several museums, particularly the Kroller-Muller Museum located a little over an hour from Amsterdam that has a large collection of his works.  And finally, we stayed in Arles in the South of France where Vincent lived for a while being treated for his depression.  So, it only seemed like a natural that we would arrive in Amsterdam and visit the Van Gogh Museum.  The last time we were here it was fully booked so I had gotten tickets well in advance.

After Vincent left Arles, he went to Paris for a short stay and eventually went and lived in the French village of Auvers-sur-Oise about 25 miles west of Paris.  During his final period of painting, he did 74 paintings in 70 days – a lot of output.  He was tremendously productive in these months and made several of his most renowned masterpieces, including Wheatfield with Crows, Doctor Paul Gachet, and The Church of Auvers-sur-Oise.  Unfortunately, his depression got to him and he took his own life at the end of July 1890.  He as only 39 when he died.

Vincent van Gogh left behind a magnificent body of work. He died just when his paintings were starting to be recognized and priced.  The exhibition did a good job of exploring his significance as an artist at the time.

The Museum has mounted a number of paintings from his time in Auvers.  It follows his output from  when he arrived in Auvers-sur-Oise, May 1890, where he optimistically and ambitiously set to work. He was highly productive: he often created more than one painting a day, while freely experimenting with new approaches to color, brushwork, formats and subjects.significance as an artist at the time.

The painting on the left, is Van Gogh’s first painting of the garden of Daubigny, the famous landscape painter who had lived in Auvers. Van Gogh used a piece of kitchen towel because he had run out of canvas. The painting on the right, The Church at Auvers-sur-Oise, 1890.

A panoramic-sized canvas allowed Van Gogh to portray universal, all-encompassing nature even more forcefully.

He painted Wheatfield under Thunderclouds (above) shortly after a turbulent visit to Theo and Jo in Paris. In both this work and Wheatfield with Crows (at the left) he emphatically tried to convey ‘sadness, extreme loneliness.’ At the same time, he believed that these canvases ‘will tell what I cannot express in words: what I consider healthy and fortifying about the countryside.’

Clearly the Museum put a lot of work into the exhibit.  Paintings are on loan from a number of collections – Van Gogh in Auvers and his Final Months is the result of years of research into the final period of Van Gogh’s life. But above was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see more than 50 paintings and 30 drawings and sketches by Vincent van Gogh that have never before been exhibited together, featuring exceptional loans from private collections and museums around the world.

We took the tram back to the train station, the train to the airport and the airport bus back to our hotel.  Tomorrow starts the first day of our Mystery Cruise.  Stay tuned.