After arriving in the Port of Skagway, we disembarked and climbed aboard a coach for a ride to the train station to take a ride on the White Pass Scenic Railway.
Built in 1898 as a way to expedite travel during the Klondike Gold Rush, the White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad is a three-foot-wide narrow-gauge railroad that climbs from sea level to almost 3,000 feet in the first 20 miles. An engineering marvel, it features two tunnels and travels over sky-high trestles and bridges. Considered an impossible feat, the railway was completed in 26 months by blasting through the mountains with 450 tons of explosives. The 110-mile railroad was officially completed when a final golden spike was hammered into place on July 29, 1900, in Carcross, Yukon. The route continued operation until 1982, and in 1988 was partially revived as a heritage railway. In 1988 it was purchased by Carnival Corporation & plc, the parent company of Princess Cruises, and has been delighting riders ever since!
It has been fully restored with comfortable passenger coaches featuring large picture windows and are pulled by diesel locomotives.
As we travelled along, there was narration provided highlighting the scenic views and historical significance of the train.
While there were beautiful views, the overcast skies kept the sun from shining limiting the grandeur of the vistas we could see. However, there was beauty all around with waterfalls, mountains and lakes but alas, no roaming herds of animals to see.
The train starts Skagway and makes its return trip after a stop in Fraser British Columbia. After having our passports checked, by Canadian officials, we started back to Skagway.
The train does a loop so we weren’t seeing the same vistas on the return trip. Naturally, when we reached Skagway, US Customs officials made sure we all had the proper passport to return.
A quick ride in our couch, brought us to Dredge Town where we panned for gold! Dredge Town is the site of a gold rush era operation that was in operation until the late 1950’s.
Our guides, dressed in character, showed us how the dredge operated and how individuals panned for gold (and still do) along the stream beds of the region.
Gold Dredge
After being taught by the “crusty old prospector”, we gathered our pan and began to swish and swirl in our own pool of water!
After doing all the gyrations, we ended up with about 8 or 9 gold flecks in the bottom of the pan.
After taking our treasure to the assayer, we learned we had $39 worth of gold!
After learning the value of our treasure, we ventured over to the dining hall for a smoked BBQ lunch including ribs, chicken and various side dishes.
Our day complete, and $39 richer, we went back to town and rejoined the ship.
Prior to arriving in Juneau, our ship went up the Endicott Arm towards the Dawes Glacier. Endicott Arm is a 30-mile fjord that snakes through the Tracy Arm-Fords Wilderness Area. At the head is the majestic Dawes Glacier.
Motoring along towards the Dawes Glacier
Taking out ship up the fjord was not easy – although the depth along the valley walls is quite steep and thus very deep.
Fog drifting along down the valley and over the river
It was hoped that as we got closer to the Dawes Glacier we would be able to see it – but weather conditions did not work in our favor – while we got about a mile away from the face of the glacier, it was completely hidden behind the low hanging clouds!
There be ice burgs in the water
There were various drifting blocks of ice along the way but nothing so big to be a concern. So, the Captain turned the ship around and headed towards Juneau
Juneau with the mountains as a backdrop.
Juneau is the capital city of the state of Alaska. Located in the Gastineau Channel and the Alaskan panhandle. The Greater Juneau Borough municipality is larger by area than both Rhode Island and Delaware. Downtown Juneau is nestled at the base of Mount Juneau and across the channel from Douglas Island. As of the 2020 census, the City had a population of 32,255, making it the third-most populous city in Alaska after Anchorage and Fairbanks. Juneau experiences a daily influx of roughly 6,000 people from visiting cruise ships between the months of May and September.
The city is named after a gold prospector from Quebec, Joe Juneau, though the place was once called Rockwelland then Harrisburg (after Juneau’s co-prospector, Richard Harris). Juneau is unique among the 49 U.S. capitals on mainland North America in that there are no roads connecting the city to the rest of the state or North America.
The absence of a road network is due to the extremely rugged terrain surrounding the city. This in turn makes Juneau a de facto island city in terms of transportation, since all goods coming in and out must go by plane or boat, in spite of the city’s location on the Alaskan mainland. Downtown Juneau sits at sea level, with tides averaging 16 feet (5 m), below steep mountains about 3,500 to 4,000 feet (1,100 to 1,200m) high. Atop these mountains is the Juneau Icefield, a large ice mass from which about 30 glaciers flow; two of these, the Mendenhall Glacier and the Lemon Creek Glacier, are visible from the local road system. The Mendenhall glacier has been gradually retreating; its front face is declining in width and height.
We had not signed on for any excursions for our port of call in Juneau – which was very disappointing as we didn’t get to the Mendenhall Glacier (so NO proof there any glaciers in Alaska as far as I’m concerned). Once we escaped the ship, we walked around the city a bit and window shopped. There are clearly several interesting spots along the way. Red Dog Saloon has been provided food, drink and entertainment since Juneau’s mining era and continues today serving the hungry locals and tourists.
Further along the road we found Tracy’s King Crab Shack serving king crab legs by the ton! They serve four different kinds of crab – Red, King, Snow and Dungeness along with battered shrimp and a variety of sides.
We ventured in and I order the ‘small’ order of Red King Crab while Janeen ordered the Crab Bisque.
We looked at the possibility of taking the Mount Roberts Tram to the top of the mountain but the line seemed to be at least an hour long so we did a pass.
Clearly there is a lot to do in Juneau but our visit was a bit disappointing as the two major highlights – Mendenhall Glacier and the Tram up the mountain would have been enjoyable – so another visit to this place needs to be on the agenda.
If you have taken an ocean cruise, on a larger ship, you may have seen the on-board art seller Park West Gallery. This art seller is on many cruise lines and we ran across them when we were on our first ocean cruise in 2019. At that time, we purchased several pieces and over the last couple of years bought a couple more. As a result of those purchases, Park West Gallery offered us a “free” Alaska Cruise on Princess. We have booked an Alaska cruise several times and had to cancel for one reason or another. So, when they offered up the trip we said yes. On our prior bookings we had included the land portion but for this it was only the sea part of the Itinerary that was offered. We figured “why not” and thus we found ourselves heading to Seattle for departure on Discovery Princess this past week.
Let me state at the outset, we are NOT big fans of large ships. Our trip through the Panama Canal was on the smallest ship in the Princess Fleet with maybe 800 passengers. This ship, the Discovery Princess, is one of the newest in the fleet and carries over 4,000 passengers. Needless to say, we don’t really care for all of the things that they offer – unlimited eating opportunities, casino, various craft activities, pools and lots and lots of drinking so there won’t be much about the actual Cruise – but there will be some discussion of the several excursions we have taken that got us off the ship.
Ketchikan, Alaska, is truly the beginning of the last frontier. Set at the southernmost entrance to Alaska’s famed Inside Passage—a network of waterways that snake through some of the most beautiful wilderness in the world—Ketchikan is best known for three things: feisty salmon, idyllic scenery, and an incredibly rich Alaska Native culture.
Ketchikan – not a very big place
Due to our thriving, century-old commercial fishery, Ketchikan is known as “The Salmon Capital of the World” and they are proud of their fishing culture and passionate about providing opportunities for visitors to catch and/or otherwise enjoy the best seafood on the planet.
The year-round population of the City is maybe 10,000 with another large number seasonal workers coming in to support the tourist trade – from about April to the beginning of October. As we walked around the town, which didn’t take very long as there isn’t much to see, there were various shops selling all the traditional souvenirs and jewelry. When I asked several people if they were local, the consistent answer was “no, I just come for the season”. Several people said they follow the cruise ships – winter in the Caribbean and summer in Alaska. Most, if not all, of the shops close up (including boarding up windows) at the end of the season
Our first excursion, after docking in Ketchikan, was on a small boat ride where we were guaranteed eagle sightings, eagles’ nests and views of the Totem Bight State Park along with some other interesting views from the water. Once off the ship we boarded bus for the 20-minute trip to the boat we had an interesting narrative about Ketchikan and the history of the place. Our bus driver was actually a resident and certainly provided some interesting commentary about the City.
Captain Kelsey McNeilOur adventure boat
On board, we were offered a beverage (coffee, hot chocolate, water) and the use of binoculars and the trip began! Our Capitan, a 5th generation local, guided us out and pointed out various points of interest including
Of course we had to do the traditional Life Safer Picture
We had the option of sitting in the heated main cabin or enjoy the open-air observation deck – we chose the open-air deck! It wasn’t very long before an eagle was sighted – seems with the white neck, they look a lot like a golf ball sitting in a tree – at least from a distance.
As we got closer to them, they become recognizable for sure. While I had hoped to see them diving for fish in the water, they were usually stationary and only twisted their neck as we motored along.
There was one that took flight and I was able to grab a quick shot.
The entire area is part of the Tongass National Forest which covers a good portion of this part of Alaska. Along the way, we were able to see the totem poles and clan house of Totem Bight State Park from the water.
Chapter House in Totem Bight State Park
Additional views from the water of colorful cabins and unique homes round out this breathtaking seascape houses were quite interesting – remember, all of this area is an island and thus most transport is via boat or float plane.
Along the way, we were offered sampler plates with salmon spread, crackers, bull kelp pickles, artisan chocolate and assorted beverages which were enjoyable for sure. Unfortunately, we didn’t see any moon jellyfish, whales, deer or other animals as we motored along. We did see some seals but that was about all for marine life. However, even though we didn’t see much wildlife, the time on the adventure was well spent and enjoyable.
The seals took to the water as we venture close to their resting place.
The narrative provided was informative and included some historical points of reference including the history of The Guard Island Lighthouse – a 100-year-old beacon to safeguard the ocean going sailors.
All-in-all it was a nice trip and one we enjoyed very much. If you find yourself looking for something to do in Ketchikan I would suggest you check them out. https://lighthouseexcursion.com
Because there is such an influx of out of town help, they have a shortage of housing. One of the solutions was the use of a retired ferry – docked by where we joined our tour boat trip.
Once off the boat, we got on the bus and back towards the Ship or to walk around the town of Ketchikan. As we had several hours, we wandered around looking at the various shops and up to the river that runs through – where the salmon run.
While we did see salmon in the river it was not as great as it might have been a couple of weeks ago when the river was teaming with salmon on their way up.
Heading back to the ship, we noticed these lovely mosaic banners hanging from posts.
Back on the ship we relaxed and got ready for our next adventure.
For several years, our oldest son, Jason, had been applying for a work position in Germany. As you may know he accepted one and moved the family to Wiesbaden -Mainz about 14 months ago. While we have visited a couple of times previously, here we are again enjoying their hospitality and getting to visit with our two grand girls.
At the Fountain in the City CenterThere was NO way I was buying this Steiff Bear!Channelling MeridaPlugged in for entertainment
This visit was particularly enjoyable as we got to attend the oldest Banshee’s 8th birthday party.
This year’s party was at a place called Clip ‘n Climb an indoor climbing arena for ages 4 and over. Banshee #1 invited 5 or 6 of her school mates to the party – several who had previously been to this place and were well versed in how things worked. Banshee #2, being just 4, found things to do but didn’t scale the heights as her sister did.
That’s Banshee #1 at the top!Birthday Girl working her way upIt looks so easy, G’Pa!All the way to the top!The Party gets some instruction on climbing.Banshee #2 working the blocks.
Cake, pizza, a chocolate #8 and slushies were enjoyed by all for a fun afternoon birthday.
Everyone had a great time and lots of cake and pizza
The next day, we piled into two cars and headed out to Hof Schauferts. This is an organic farm with a brewery and restaurant. Our visit was timed for lunch, which was quite enjoyable sitting outside with a lively breeze blowing. Visits to the pigs and pony were fun as well as a quick walk around the place. We didn’t find the brewery but we all sampled beer for lunch.
One day, Terri (daughter-in-law), Janeen and I went for lunch along the river. Mainz is right at the confluence of the Main and Rhine Rivers – and clearly a spot where the river has been vital to the development of the community. We had actually been to Mainz before on a River Cruise but it has been several years ago since that trip. After lunch, I decided to walk home and found this memorial to the almost 500-year-old tradition of rafting on the river. Rafting along the river was not easy taking a lot of stamina and self-confidence.
The last raft trip took place in 1964 but it is clear that rafters have left their mark along the shore over the centuries.
One day we made cookies – and of course had to sample the dough
Our visit was only 10 days or so but it is always wonderful to see our grand kids in their space and see how they have grown since we last saw them.
We are now back in Virginia so no blogs for a while – Alaska in August is coming!
While our grandchildren are in school, we continue to explore some of the cultural resources of the city. Today we are going to the Landes Museum – also called the Mainz State Museum. It is a museum of cultural history and is located right in the center of Mainz. The baroque building was originally a horse stable and later became a modern glass and steel structure with an inner courtyard designed for presentations or relaxation. Not only is it home to one of the most important collections on cultural history in the state of Rhineland‑Palatinate, it also opens up for a range of cultural events.
The Mainz MuseumJaneen and David at entrance to Museum
The extensive collection on the history of art and culture extending from the beginnings of culture to modern art. The collection clearly reflects the varied aspects of cultural and social history over the millennia in a unique way.
Mainz was founded by the Romans in the 1st century BCE as a military fortress on the northernmost frontier of the empire and provincial capital of Germania Superior. It became an important city in the 8th century CE as part of the Holy Roman Empire and was the site of the Electorate of Mainz and seat of the Archbishop-Elector of Mainz, the Primate of Germany.
This early history is represented in the Museum by a series of eight full-figure sandstone reliefs representing the seven electors and the Roman-German king. These were originally on the external building of the Kaufhaus am Brand, which was completed in 1317 in the center of Mainz.
Johannes von NepomukKassel portrait Christian Carl von Closen on HaidburgLorenzo di Credi Florenz 1459-1537 FlorenzMainz writing cabinetThe baby Jesus crowns St. Joseph,
Once again, we had a museum almost to ourselves – yes at the beginning there was a school group but they left soon after our arrival.
Two pairs of figures (love couples) from the house Korbgasse 8 in Mainz, around 1320/1340 Yellow sandstone with traces of old version According to the sources, these “love couples” were located in 1905 on the facade or courtyard side of a Mainz patrician house in Korbgasse No. 8. Originally, they probably served as jewelry for window sills.
The collections showcase: Prehistory, Roman times, the Middle Ages, the Renaissance, the Baroque period, graphics from the 16th to the 20th century, Dutch painting, 18th-century porcelain, 19th-century painting, Judaica, city history, Art Nouveau glass and modern art.
There are numerous temporary exhibitions on art, culture and history, including contemporary history, that complement the extensive collection.
We wandered through the Museum discovering new areas as we went along. As we are not German speaking tourists, we had to use our cellphone for translations of the descriptions around the artwork.
Bernhard Kraus Offenbach 1867-1935 Mainz fountain of youth, before 1918 glass mosaic, partly painted, lead glazing The motif of the fountain of youth fits perfectly into the time of Art Nouveau with its longings for the origins and the designs of social utopias.
Time to say goodbye. The memorial head wants to go home. Once this bronze stood on an altar in honor of a deceased king in the Kingdom of Benin in today’s Nigeria. The memorial head is one of the estimated over 4,000 brass and ivory works that British colonial troops robbed during the conquest of the Royal Palace in February 1897. Via Lagos, Berlin and Stuttgart, the bronze came to Mainz in the collection of Johannes Gutenberg University in 1971. Since 2020, the memorial head has been waiting to return to Nigeria. Time to say goodbye!
Once we had explored most of the museum, we stopped into the Café for a quick lunch and of course the gift shop for appropriate souvenirs of our visit. Once we were back at the Lee’s home, we relaxed and started preparations for the Clip&Climb birthday festivities on Saturday celebrating first grandgirl’s eighth.
