In July of 2023, I booked a Christmas Market River cruise for the entire family for November of 2024. This original group of 8 has now grown to 19 friends and family who will all gather together in Cologne Germany to board a UniWorld river boat, S.S. Antoinette, to visit a number of ports along the Rhine River ending in Basel Switzerland. Along the way, there will be an opportunity to visit lots of Christmas Markets, see a bunch of historic places and of course enjoy all being together.
After having booked this trip, and while we were on Oceania cruising South America, I booked a three-week cruise in the Mediterranean for October. The start of that adventure has resulted in our flying via Paris to the island of Malta. All of these adventures necessitated getting a long term stay visa that allows us to stay in Europe for 6-months.
Our first stop, on this Grand Adventure was Malta – where we are scheduled to board the Oceania Cruise ship, Marina. We arrived 4 days prior to departure of the cruise allowing us an opportunity to explore the Island.
Malta, is an island country located in the central Mediterranean Sea which has been along various trade routes for thousands of years. As a result, Maltese society has been molded by centuries of foreign rule by various powers. In the mid 1800’s British took control of the Island and the resulting British influence is apparent (driving on the ‘wrong side’, red telephone boxes, English as the major language to name just a few). The island become completely independent in the mid 1970s.
Valletta, the Capital of Malta, is a relatively new city – having been expanded and developed by the Knights of Malta in the late 16th Century. Valletta has become a vibrant port of call and became our home base for several days prior to boarding the ship. The city is Baroque in character, with elements of Mannerist, Neo-Classical and Modern architecture, though the Second World War left major scars on the city. The city was designated as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1980.
We joined a walking tour of the city to learn more about its history and to visit a number of interesting spots. As a fortified city, built by the Knights of St John in 1566, its history spans almost 5 centuries. We passed by many of the original fortifications, went through at least a couple of City Gates and viewed the golden sandstone architecture. Throughout the entire walk we were surrounded by narrow streets with any number of tourist shops and restaurants. Valletta was developed by “immigrant” Templer Knights who chose to fortify Malta as a port. The island capital was originally Mdina, more inland. Administration of the island was carried on from Valletta by the Grand Marshall of the Knights of St. John for centuries. They continued hospice care as well. They also used Arab water management and garden techniques to continue olive and wine agriculture.
One of the highlights was visiting the St John’s Co-Cathedral (It’s a Co-Cathedral because there are two cathedrals on the island and the Bishop is responsible for both locations).
Construction was completed in 1577 with a major redo of the interior due to earthquake in the late 1600 resulting in a more Baroque style.
Inside the church are two paintings from 1608 or so done by Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio, more commonly known as Caravaggio.
The painting depicting The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist by Caravaggio (1571–1610) is the most famous work in the church. Considered one of Caravaggio’s masterpieces, the largest canvas he painted and the only painting signed by the painter. On the left shows the painting in the spot it was designed to be placed.
Saint Jerome Writing is second painting by Caravaggio both painted while he was on Malta in 1607 or 1608. A LOT more about Caravaggio later in our adventure.
If you enjoyed this blog, stay tuned as there will be lots more coming.
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