Lover of Wine – Travel along on our adventures – DAVID & JANEEN

Today we split up – Jason and Terri went for a guided tour of Saint Mark’s Square and Janeen and I went to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. Peggy is related to all the other Guggenheims around – but didn’t have all the money they did. Her father didn’t have enough time to score big points in the family as he died on the Titanic leaving the family without the vast sums of money the other Guggenheims received. However, we should not feel sorry for Peggy, she did get over $3 million (about 35 million today) so she did OK. She started out collecting art first in Paris and London then in the US and finally in Venice where she remained for over 20 years.

The Museum holds a portion of her collection in the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni where she lived and died. She had a fondness for collecting living artists and purchased works early on from a number of different artists– and married at least one (Max Ernst) having a couple of kids. When she died, the collection and the Palazzo were turned over to the Guggenheim Trust for management.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In walking around the place you really get a feeling it was a home and the artwork was displayed for her pleasure. One entire room is filled with Jackson Pollock’s works – I don’t recall ever seen so many in one spot. Other works by Salvador Dali, Marc Chagail, Alexander Calder, Max Ernst, Pablo Picasso and others make up the collection.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After we connected with Jason and Terri we had a quick bite to eat, a brief rest and got into a water taxi we had hired for a 2-hour water tour of Venice. Our driver was knowledgeable about all the various neighborhood buildings, the history of the area and how to get around. It was a wonderful tour, viewing at least five of the seven districts, including the Jewish Ghetto, Arsenal (still military), residential, rather than resort, canals, and views of church plazas and historic palaces.

Two recently renovated Palacios are available for an under market eleven million euros, but the resident ghost and bad luck of previous owners, keeps the money away.

 

Our taxi driver was a born in Venice waterman, who had crewed at the America’s Cup in 1991, and liked San Diego a lot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Early Tuesday, David and Janeen walked the Virginia Lees to a neighborhood water taxi pick-up for the rapid ride to Marco Polo Airport, then had a Café in a neighborhood shop, and reverently walked through .

St. Maria Gloriosa, to view the Michelangelo’s and impressive chapels.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The church bells were our sound track for our stay at this beautiful VRBO.

Not all of those who Wander are Lost!

Today, we wandered around a bit but were never lost. After a late start in the morning, we huffed it to the Rialto Bridge – which was CROWDED as to be expected being one of the main photo spots for the Grand Canal.

 

We crossed over, taking a picture or two of course, and walked around to see the sights.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Getting hungry, we crossed back over the and went to a nice restaurant for a lovely lunch – clams, soup, lasagna, salad, steak, lamp shank…all really lovely.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After lunch, we took the Vapareto along the Grand Canal to St. Marks Square for a walk around and to see where Jason and Terri are to meet up with their guide tomorrow.

We also walked past the Bridge of Sighs.

Of course we stopped for a espresso,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Janeen had Melon gelato (something she has been looking for since she had it in Provence 10 years ago!) and ultimately back over the Rialto Bridge (for the 3^rd time) heading back to our apartment and a coffee break and finally gelato stop along the way.

Generally a really nice day was had by all.

After checking out of our BW Travelers hotel, we went over to the Venice Marco Polo Airport and picked up Jason and Terri who arrived from Germany to spend a few days with us in Venice. After getting everyone in the NEW CAR we drove across

causeway to the City Of Venice! Needless to say there are very few parking areas but I had reserved a spot for our stay.

 

Once we navigated the parking structure

 

 

 

 

 

and purchased our vaporetto (water bus) tickets, we boarded Line #1 and motored down the Grand Canal to our stop S. Toma, where Greg, our host in the VRBO, was waiting.

 

 

After a short walk, we got to the apartment – overlooking Campo dei Frari, near Gloriosa dei Frari church.

 

 

 

 

 

We are on the second floor of a nice building next to a “rio”canal. This apartment has two bedrooms, a large living room, dining room, 2,5 baths a nice kitchen and LOTS of windows for light.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We got settled in a few minutes and then headed out to Antiche Carampane, a restaurant Janeen and I had visited during our first visit (15 months ago) to share lunch.

Well, the restaurant did NOT disappoint!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jason and Terri were a little tired after a very long day so they took a nap – and then they went out for pizza while Janeen and I stayed home. Tomorrow, even if it is calling for some rain, we will venture out and do some exploring and actually take more pictures!

 

Our drive today was REALLY REALLY REALLY BEAUTIFUL but no pictures where taken.  Lovely views of snow covered alps…..end up near the Venice Airport where we will be picking up Terri and Jason tomorrow and going into Venice for several days.

Once we got settled into our hotel we went out looking for a self serve laundry and found one!  After an hour and half, we were back to the hotel putting ourselves together for our next big adventure – Venice!

Stuttgart to Innsbruck – on the road most of the day but only went 325 Km (201 miles). But it was a lovely drive through the southern Alps of Germany and into the Alps of Austria. Mostly an uneventful day – but lovely views. Our hotel in Innsbruck seems to be a jumping off point for hikers as there are special packages which include various treks in the nearby mountains.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tomorrow is Venice – well, not really, but close. We are staying at a hotel near the airport so we can pick up Terri and Jason who will be joining us in Venice for a few days prior to their flight back to Virginia.

Not much has happened over the last couple of days – we have been waiting for TODAY.  The planning for TODAY started way last November when we started thinking about a car for our time in Europe and decided it would be best to just buy one.  Well, that lead us to look at the four basic car makers who have what is called Foreign Delivery programs:  Volvo, Audi, BMW and Mercedes-Benz.  We checked each of their programs, sat in a few different models and decided the Mercedes-Benz GLC-300 would be the car for us.

While we were in Virginia last December, for Christmas with our granddaughter and her parents (Jason our son and his wife Terri) we ventured out to a Mercedes-Benz dealer and put down a deposit for a new car for delivery in Stuttgart late September.  When this is now late September.

We arrived at the delivery center only to find out there was a custom’s paperwork that hadn’t been completed.  Nothing we could do about it so we were given a voucher for a beverage and tickets to a factory tour.  The factory tour was about 2 hours and quite interesting.  Having gone on a GM tour in about 1972, things have most certainly changed.  Robots do 90% of everything – heavy lifting, welding, screwing, gluing – you name it and they can do it.  The human touch only comes in for the fine detail work and finishing touches.

After the tour we were given another voucher for lunch – which was quite nice.  After that, we were finally introduced to our new car.  As we were going through all the particulars we soon realized it did not have European Maps in the navigation system.  Well, another voucher for a dessert and beverage while the loaded the correct maps to the system and ultimately about 2 hours later we able to finish the introduction to the car and take off.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

First stop was to the Mercedes-Benz Museum.  Started in 1886, this organization has done an extrodinary amount of different things over the last hundred or so years.  Cars, boats, motorcycles, airplanes, racing cars, buses you name it and they have had a hand in doing something one way or another.

Along with the various cars presented there was a general timeline listing important events happening around the world – interesting to see and learn about all of this from their (Mercedes-Benz) perspective.

After finding our way back to the hotel I turned the car over to them to put in the garage and we went out for a beer.  All in all a very pleasant day.

 

 

Thursday – September 21^st through Saturday the 23^rd.

On Thursday, I stayed on board the boat today while Janeen headed out with the rest of the ship to Salamanca Spain. Sleeping in has its advantages and a restful day was great. After we moved the boat, to the dock of the village, I took myself for a walk.   Well, the village of Barca de Alva is about 3 blocks long and maybe 2-blocks wide. I saw about 20 people in total and that included two people from the Boat also on a walking tour.

Not a hot spot of entertainment that’s for sure.

 

 

I did stop for a coffee and read my book for a while and then back to the boat. It was a nice relaxing day.

 

 

 

 

While I stayed on the boat, Janeen went with the rest of the ship to Salamanca. If you ignore the winding 2-hour road ride, the rest stop WC line, and a timetable, Salamanca, Spain is a fascinating city. The University, founded in the late 12^th/early 13^th century, was one of the most progressive of its day; allowing students to study writings of Moor, Jewish and Christian philosophers. The only thing they consistently agreed upon was the huge temptation for the students in the form of Woman (who is represented by the frog of lust, usually poised over a skull or skeleton). However, if one can find the Salamanca frog amongst the carvings and religious figures, it guarantees a return to the city. The two cathedrals, which share a wall, are unique examples of the Romanesque (simple) and Gothic (soaring and ornate) styles form 11^th century to the Renaissance.

The “New” Cathedral (15^th cent.) was delayed by massive death count of the bubonic plague, victims of which are buried in mass graves beneath the floor. Today, the city of Salamanca has mostly two sources of income, tourists and students. The University will celebrate its 800^th year in 2018.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Friday and Saturday was a nothing day – mostly sailing along the Douro as we made our way back towards Porto. So, nothing really to report beyond the views from the boat.

We did enjoy our evening dinners in the private dining room with all our new found friends.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Saturday afternoon, after arriving in Porto, we head out on our own walking tour visiting around the Ribera area of old Porto, and ultimately stopping in at the Church of Saint Francisco.

 

 

 

After paying our admission price, we walked through the place and particularly enjoyed seeing the Jesse Tree.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Tree of Jesse is a depiction of the ancestors of Christ, shown in a tree which rises from Jesse of Bethlehem, the father of King David and grows upward from there.

This carved wood piece is quite tall with 12 kings of Judah connected through branches of the tree to the recumbent body of Jesse. On top of the tree is Joseph, under an image of the Virgin and the Child. This was made in the early 1700’s and still looks quite good.

 

After walking through the church, we headed outside and tried to connect with Janeen’s friend Cherlyne and her husband David. They were in Porto at the same time as us but on a tour with Tauck. After texting several times back and forth we found out they were on a ‘break’ on the other side of the Douro River so we rushed back over the river and found them! It was neat to connect, if only for a few minutes, with them – Cherlyne is a OLD high school friend of Janeen who she sees infrequently as they live in eastern Oregon.

After our ‘quick’ visit we got back on the boat and finished packing for our departure the next day.

OK – it’s Wednesday, I think, and we are off to Quinta do Seixo for a tour and tasting. What a surprise, they make Port! Actually they make a number of wines not the least of which is Port. This Quinta is actually the home of Sandeman – a “most renowned wine estate”.

A large wine consortium that also owns, what a coincidence also owns Mateus where we were yesterday owns this. Sandeman was established in 1790 and has been producing port wine ever since. The logo is meant to make you think of the student robs in the University we visited a few days ago and the hat is a reference to Spain as they also have produced sherry from that part of the world.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The tour was interesting – seems they make a lot of wine – but nothing out of the ordinary having been on any number of wine tours over the years.  However, the fermentation area and the crushing system was interesting.  They still crush the fruit in open tanks – in this case made of granite and highlight polished on the inside but they use a mechanical “stomper” as seen in the photo.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We tasted a couple of wines both of which were enjoyable – a medium dry white Port and a Ruby Port.

 

 

 

 

 

 

After tasting we re-boarded the bus and headed to lunch at Quinta da Avessada.

 

 

 

 

 

This Quinta is part of a consortium that produces Moscatel and we had a traditional lunch to go with it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All very nice but I didn’t take pictures of the food, sorry. We headed back to the boat and where able to see lots of terraces vineyard along the road. All in all an interesting day. One side note, this trip does not want for wine and food – there is PLUNTY of both!

 

Tuesday and we off to the Mateus Palace. This is the place where the rosé wine we all drank a long time ago comes from. Remember the bottle that is squat and round? Kind of like the WWI canteens the solders use to carry? The bottles show the Palace – designed by an Italian-born architect and built in the 18^th Century.

Well, that’s the place. The baroque masterpiece is NOT where the wine is made anymore but still a beautiful spot to visit. We had been here on our first trip to Portugal so we opted to skip the guided tour of the interior and went straight to the gardens.

However, just incase you want to know what the place looks like there are a few pictures and some general facts for your reading enjoyment. Surrounding the palace is a fantasy of a garden, with tiny boxwood hedges; prim statues and a fragrant cypress tunnel that’s blissfully cool on even the hottest days. This is where we headed immediately upon arrival.

 

 

After spending quality time in the garden we joined up with the group and boarded the bus for the return trip to the Boat.

 

 

 

Porto, the city on the right bank of the Douro River and the starting point of our actual river cruise, is considered to be the second largest city in Portugal after Lisbon – but that is only if you include all the surrounding areas as many of the “locals” have moved out for better housing, leaving the interior of the city with a lot of empty buildings. Our boat, the Queen Isabel was docked on the Gaia side of the river (the left bank – the Douro separates the cities of Porto and Gaia).

Our first full day, after getting all settled in to our cabin, was a walking tour of the City. Janeen, fighting off a cold, stayed ‘home’ to rest and I took the adventure trail with the group doing the “do as locals do” which is the phrase they use for the more active walking tour.

The City is very picturesque and offers any number of beautiful sites to see.

Our trip included a walk across the steel Dom Luis I Bridge. This double deck bridge with light rail and pedestrians at the top and general traffic and pedestrians on the lower deck was designed, in part by Gustave Eiffel and built in the late 1800’s. From there it was a short climb to the Porto cathedral.

 

The Cathedral sits on the highest point and has a commanding view of the City.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From there we took a short walk to catch the local tram – not really a local’s thing to do as it is very slow and not running on schedule often.  It seems all the trams came from the United States sometime during the 1940’s.

The Train station was a treat – with wonderful tile murals on the walls depicting the history of the country.

Walking though the City was enjoyable. We visited parts of the City we (Janeen and I) had not visited in our visit 10 years ago. It is sad, however, to see all the empty buildings as many are in poor condition waiting for someone to come with lots of money to fix them up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After the tour, we got back to the boat for various beverages and a discussion by the cruise director on the upcoming events for the trip.   Tomorrow, Tuesday, we start heading up river!