Malta – Part 2

Our second scheduled tour was to Mdina.  However, prior to arrival we made a couple of stops.  Leaving Valletta, we headed to the Dingli Cliffs, located off the village of Dingli on Malta’s western coast, at around 253 meters above sea-level. These cliffs represent the highest point of the Maltese islands.

The cliffs propose a majestic sight; the views overlooking the terraced fields underneath and the panorama of the vast open seas.  Given their impressive height the cliffs can be considered as natural forts, since no attacker can approach the island from the west.

Located at this site was a small chapel dedicated to St Mary Magdalen – and dates from about 1575!  Unfortunately the chapel wasn’t open for viewing.

Our next stop, prior to getting to Mdina was a visit to the San Anton Botanical Gardens, located in the village of Attard.

These beautiful gardens were built in the early 17th century by Grand Master Antoine de Paule to complement his summer residence; San Anton Palace, which is located at the perimeter of the gardens and which today serves as the residence of the Maltese President.  

San Anton Palace – The official residence of the President of Malta

The gardens have several pathways surrounded by fountains and ponds which are inhabited by families of ducks, swans, peacocks, peahens and turtles and encompass a large variety of trees and flowers from around the world. Of course, due to the time of year, there wasn’t a lot of color around but it was a pleasant spot to stop and walk.

Mdina is a fortified city and served as the island’s former capital, from antiquity to the medieval period. The city is still confined within its walls, and has a population of 250, but it is contiguous with the town of Rabat, which takes its name from the Arabic word for suburb, and has a population of over 11,000 – and was originally a Roman City. 


Mdina is located at the top of a hill and has been inhabited since prehistory. A Phoenician colony known as Ann was established around the 8th century BCE, sharing its name with the island and presumably acting as its capital. During the Punic Wars, the town was acquired by the Romans and renamed Melita after the Greek and Latin name for the island. Greco-Roman Melite was larger than present-day Mdina. It was reduced to its present size during the period of Byzantine or Arab rule. Following a 9th century massacre, the area was largely uninhabited until its re-establishment in the 11th century as Madīnah, from which the town’s current name derives. Mdina then continued to serve as the capital of Malta until the arrival of the Order of St. John in 1530. Mdina experienced a period of decline over the following centuries, although it saw a revival in the early 18th century during which several Baroque buildings were erected.

Largely maintaining its medieval character, Mdina remained the center of the Maltese nobility and religious authorities with property passed down between families and from generation to generation. It never regained its pre-1530 importance, however, once Valletta became so dominant.  Due to the medieval character, it has been used for a number of TV and Movie sites including the Game of Thrones (which we have never watched). 

Not surprising, there are local wines available around the Island.  Janeen took a particular liking to a different kind of Spritz – Instead of an Aperol Spritz she discovered a Maltese Spritz.  This is made from local cactus (prickly pear) liqueur.  

So, of course, I had to buy a bottle for later and following Rule #2 (Eat Local) she bought a prickly pear to eat. Unfortunately, the fruit was not as sweet as it will become as the harvest wouldn’t be for a couple more months

The Start of a Grand Adventure – The Island of Malta

In July of 2023, I booked a Christmas Market River cruise for the entire family for November of 2024.  This original group of 8 has now grown to 19 friends and family who will all gather together in Cologne Germany to board a UniWorld river boat, S.S. Antoinette, to visit a number of ports along the Rhine River ending in Basel Switzerland.  Along the way, there will be an opportunity to visit lots of Christmas Markets, see a bunch of historic places and of course enjoy all being together. 

After having booked this trip, and while we were on Oceania cruising South America, I booked a three-week cruise in the Mediterranean for October.  The start of that adventure has resulted in our flying via Paris to the island of Malta.  All of these adventures necessitated getting a long term stay visa that allows us to stay in Europe for 6-months.

Our first stop, on this Grand Adventure was Malta – where we are scheduled to board the Oceania Cruise ship, Marina.  We arrived 4 days prior to departure of the cruise allowing us an opportunity to explore the Island.

Malta, is an island country located in the central Mediterranean Sea which has been along various trade routes for thousands of years.  As a result, Maltese society has been molded by centuries of foreign rule by various powers.  In the mid 1800’s British took control of the Island and the resulting British influence is apparent (driving on the ‘wrong side’, red telephone boxes, English as the major language to name just a few).  The island become completely independent in the mid 1970s. 

Valletta, the Capital of Malta, is a relatively new city – having been expanded and developed by the Knights of Malta in the late 16th Century.  Valletta has become a vibrant port of call and became our home base for several days prior to boarding the ship.  The city is Baroque in character, with elements of Mannerist, Neo-Classical and Modern architecture, though the Second World War left major scars on the city.  The city was designated as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1980. 

We joined a walking tour of the city to learn more about its history and to visit a number of interesting spots.  As a fortified city, built by the Knights of St John in 1566, its history spans almost 5 centuries. We passed by many of the original fortifications, went through at least a couple of City Gates and viewed the golden sandstone architecture.  Throughout the entire walk we were surrounded by narrow streets with any number of tourist shops and restaurants. Valletta was developed by “immigrant” Templer Knights who chose to fortify Malta as a port. The island capital was originally Mdina, more inland.  Administration of the island was carried on from Valletta by the Grand Marshall of the Knights of St. John for centuries.  They continued hospice care as well. They also used Arab water management and garden techniques to continue olive and wine agriculture. 

One of the highlights was visiting the St John’s Co-Cathedral (It’s a Co-Cathedral because there are two cathedrals on the island and the Bishop is responsible for both locations). 

Not very ornate on the exterior but the inside is wonderful.

Construction was completed in 1577 with a major redo of the interior due to earthquake in the late 1600 resulting in a more Baroque style.  

Inside the church are two paintings from 1608 or so done by Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio, more commonly known as Caravaggio.

The painting depicting The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist by Caravaggio (1571–1610) is the most famous work in the church. Considered one of Caravaggio’s masterpieces, the largest canvas he painted and the only painting signed by the painter. On the left shows the painting in the spot it was designed to be placed.

 Saint Jerome Writing is second painting by Caravaggio both painted while he was on Malta in 1607 or 1608. A LOT more about Caravaggio later in our adventure. 

If you enjoyed this blog, stay tuned as there will be lots more coming.  

Please leave a comment!