Lover of Wine – Travel along on our adventures – DAVID & JANEEN

Up and out early in the morning, as we had a ferry to catch.

The car ferry was taking us from Tarbert across the river to Killimer.   It saves only a half hour on the trip but makes it much more interesting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once across the river, we drove through several small towns. One of them had a mural depicting how owners would evict their tenants who refused to move when told to leave.

Beyond trying to smoke them out by plugging their chimney with straw, they would have a battering ram contraption that they would set up to destroy the door. Not good times for sure.

 

Driving along, the landscape became increasingly barren. In some areas there is virtually no soil – it has all been washed away and just the limestone is left standing. The houses all have to be protected from the raging Atlantic storms that roll through. In many cases they have extra construction at the edges of the roofs to keep the wind from getting under the edge of the roof tiles and blowing them off. Clearly a hardy bunch makes their homes in these areas and they are few and far between.

 

We stopped at St Bridgid’s Well a holy well believed to be blessed by St Bridgit of Kildare, a 5^th century Irish saint from the area and the only female patron saint of Ireland.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is one of the most visited Holy Wells in Ireland and people have been visiting for centuries. Inside the structure are literally hundreds of prayer cards, photographs and related items people have left over the years.

Next stop, the Cliffs of Moher. The Cliffs of Moher are one of Ireland’s most visited national attractions with a magical vista that seems to capture the hearts of up to one million visitors every year.

While it is spectacular, it didn’t quite capture my heart but I’m glad we stopped. The Cliffs rise 214 m or about 700 feet at the highest point and range for 9 kilometers or 5 miles over the Atlantic Ocean on the western coast.

We walked through the display and up to one of the major viewing points along the cliffs and braved

 

 

 

 

 

 

the winds and chill of the Ocean air. It was clear enough to see the Aran Islands in the distance. Lovely.

We ended our day in Galway, home of the Claddagh Ring – that is a traditional Irish ring given which represents love, loyalty, and friendship, and Spanish influence from all the trading being done with the City.

Lynch Castle (now a bank building)was the setting for a Father /Son tale of economy and justice. The local lord and justice of the peace, Lynch, fostered the eldest son of a Spanish merchant who wished to trade with the merchants of Galway. He was to learn the culture of Ireland, and act as guarantee that the Gomez family would redeem him and continue trade in good faith. Unfortunately, he fell in love with the Lynch son’s sweetheart and stole her heart. The Lynch son knifed him, threw him in the river and laid low. The tides brought the body back, and the deed was attributed to Lynch’s son. The local council thought Lord Lynch would choose a scapegoat to send to the scaffold instead of his son. Lord Lynch spent a night before the hanging praying and talking with his son, and when the son rose, shoved his son out of the top windows of the castle on a hangman’s rope. And so, said our guide Brian, came about the concept of a “lynching”. A good story by a great story teller, the only thing needing lynching in Galway now is the McDs, but that is just my opinion.

Thursday, after a restful evening, we were up and out at 9 for our day trip on the Ring of Kerry. The Ring of Kerry is a loop of 179 Km (112 miles) following the coastline of the lveragh Peninsula with a number of points of interest to stop and visit. We started off from Killarney heading along the road with our first stop at an overview of Lough Leane – one of the large lakes along the way.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was a beautiful day for November. From there, we continued on for a quick view of the Ogham stones.   Ogham is the earliest form of writing in Ireland it dates to around the 4^th century and was in use for around 500 years. The original alphabet is made up of a series of strokes along or across a line.   No clue what these things say – or at least I have no clue. Maybe “Yankee Go Home” for all I know.

A little further down the road we stopped for views of the Atlantic Ocean and Irish Sea. While it was a bit chilly it was still a lovely day and the views were great.

Along the road, we passed the birthplace of Daniel O’Connell. O’Connell is often referred to as the Liberator as he was an early Irish political leader in the first have of the 19^th century in the structural for Irish Catholics to be allowed freedom within Ireland. Unfortunately his home is in ruins now but at least they are trying to keep what is left intact.

A short distance further down the road, we passed the Daniel O’Connel Memorial Church. The Church is unusual as it is not named after a Saint or deity – but a layperson.

 

The next stop was a photo op to take pictures of the Skellig Islands. One of these islands, about 12 Km off the coast, became a monastery in the ninth century.

Talk about a harsh place – the monks had to chip steps into the rock to even gain access up the island peak. In order to have any kind of garden, they had to haul dirt from the mainland and spread it around. Their rock shelters are in the shape of ‘bees hives’ and are still in near perfect condition withstanding Atlantic waves and wind. We didn’t actually make it to the island, it’s usually inaccessible due to weather conditions, and would have been a difficult trip as there are over 600 steps without any kind of railing secure the steps!

However, we did stop at a place for lunch that was called the Skellig Experience and it had some general information. An interesting side note is the final scene of Star Wars 6 where Luke is scene (and never speaks) was filmed on Skellig Island. They have a t-shirt for sale with Luke holding a Guinness with R2D2 next to him with the typical bird that lives on the island. Didn’t but the t-shirt needless to say.

After visiting the Skellig Experience and having lunch we got back on the bus and continued our trip on the Ring of Kerry.

 

 

We saw, but didn’t stop, one of the Ring Forts that are scattered around Ireland. These are circular fortified settlements that were mostly built during the bronze age up to about year 1000.

 

 

The Killarney National Park, was the first national park of Ireland created in 1932. We drove through it on the way back to Killarney and several of the lakes and other features of the area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Throughout the day there were sheep – some in large enclosures some in small and the hedge rows or stone walls separating the areas were interesting to see. The Irish Republic encourages the maintenance of hedgerows as natural habitat for local birds, badgers, hedgehogs etc.

 

 

First thing on Wednesday we hopped on the bus for a 3-minute trip to the Waterford Glass Factory. Waterford – bring to mind exquisite glassware for sure and our tour re-enforced that notion. Our guide, Mike, has worked for the Waterford Company since the 1970’s and clearly had a grasp of the process of the system. While most of the Waterford glass was manufactured in the late Slovakia, it would seem the more decorative or limited edition pieces are done in the Waterford plant.

Starting with a brief video highlighting the history of the company – started in 1783 closed in 1890 and restarted around 1947 it was an interesting presentation and gave a good understanding of the historical position of the company.

 

 

 

 

 

When making limited edition pieces, they start off with a wood model and from that make a wooden mold in which the glass is blown.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once a design is determined to be acceptable more permanent metal molds are made. Our first stop was the model shop where we watched a woodworker make the finishing touches on a mold. From the model workshop, we moved on to the glass blowing station – with two stations heating and blowing individual pieces. While we were there they were making a limited edition Saint Patrick’s Day Bowl for sale to the US Market in February.

After the glass bowl has been ‘blown’ and cured overnight it moves to the first to the marking station, where all the design is drawn onto the bowl and then to the engraving stations.

 

 

 

Each bowl is hand engraved using diamond wheels and water. The training for the engraving station takes 5 to 7 years before the individual is truly fully trained and allowed to engrave the materials. It was interesting to watch these workers (99% men by the way) perform their tasks. Etching is done at the last station by artists with hand tools, both male and female.

From the production end of the building we of course went into the sales area where we were able to purchase a wide selection of Waterford products. Most tableware is now made in Slovakia. Needless to say, we didn’t purchase anything ,but it was interesting to see the wide range of items available.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After our tour we got back on the bus and headed towards Blarney Castle. There was a photo stop along the way to see the coastline – Atlantic Ocean and village of Dungarvan.

The countryside is GREEN with limited farming beyond sheep grazing the grass. The overcast sky’s and damp weather make it very clear we are Ireland.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Blarney Castle – what can I say about this place. Blarney castle is the third structure to have been erected on the site. In the 10^th century there was wooden hunting lodge here, around 1210 this was replaced by a stone structure. This was all demolished and the foundations used to create the current castle built by Dermot MacCarthy in 1446.

Why do people go to kiss the Blarney stone? Well, legend indicates it all started when Cormac Teige McCarthy, the Lord of Blarney, was called to Queen Elizabeth to explain his lack of payments to the Crown. McCarthy met an old witch woman on the way who told him that anyone who kissed a particular stone she indicated would be given the gift of eloquent speech. So he kissed the stone and went on to the Queen and was so eloquent in his speech he was completely successful and returned a tax free happy man.

He subsequently had the stone placed in the upper tower of the Castle. From then on, the legend grew to such an extent that for over 200 years world statesmen( W.Churchill), literary giants and millions of ordinary folk have climbed the steps to kiss the Blarney stone and gain the gift of eloquence.

After getting off the bus we headed to the Castle and up the stairs. There are over 500 steps – not all in great shape and in a circular tower to get to the top. On top of all of that, it was misty and the steps were wet with dew. However, we made it to the top and proceeded to Kiss the Stone. Fortunately, there are a couple of guys there to help with the process along with grab bars and a mat to lay on to perform the ritual. Of course, you do it on your back, have to slide over the edge and while hanging UPSIDE DOWN slide down to kiss the stone.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After getting back down the tower steps, we walked over for lunch at the pub and Blarney Woolen Mills purchase of a vest for David, and then back to our bus for the drive to Cobh. This village’s major claim to fame is that the Titanic made the last port of call prior to setting sail across the Atlantic to her meeting with the iceberg. The other major event, for the village, was the sinking of the Cunard Liner the Lusitania on May 7^th 1915 resulted in the deaths of 1,198 of the 1,9659 people on board. It was torpedoed off the coast and many of the boating people of Cobh went out and rescued survivors and brought back the dead.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The village has two memorials – one large one for the Lusitania and a smaller one for the Titanic. We also learned about the local history of the village, people who had visited and more answers to Ireland in WWII. Once our guide had shared his wisdom, we boarded the bus for our final drive to Killarney.

Tuesday our Driver Tony, although a native of Dublin, was ready to head out of the busy city and south toward Wicklow County where we explored Glendalough, Valley Between Two Lakes and site of the 5^th century monastic community of St. Kevin Coemhghein (fair begotten). Although never officially declared a saint by Rome, the stories of his works and miracles keep him an “Irish Saint”.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kevin’s Cross-incorporates the Christian Cross of Crucifixion with a circle of the Sun/Son, symbolic for the local people of the spirits of their previous deities. The Monks built a 30-meter high tower of local mica slate and granite, probably to mark the community for travelers and pilgrims, and perhaps to protect any property from marauders. It has a conical roof and four windows facing North, South, East and West at the summit. A bell called out worship times from the top. Glendalough was meant to be a place of communication with nature and quiet meditation. The community supported itself simply. Even after 12^th century Ecclesiastics abandoned the site, local people continued using the “cathedral” and the cemetery to bury their dead in a consecrated ground.

Continuing our adventure, we headed along the coast, moving clockwise around the Ireland, we rode on to Wexford County, and New Ross, port for Wm. Graves “Hunger Ship “.  When the potato crop failed for two successive years, and English Landholders saw their properties fail as families died off from starvation, they sought alternatives. One was to offer a family passage to the New World (US, Canada,) on a cargo ship.

The Dunbrody Famine Ship is a reproduction of an 1840’s emigrant vessel; it provides a good interpretation of the famine emigrant experience. On board the ship, our guide talked about the realities of life on these notorious “Coffin Ships”. Lasting up to six weeks, the Atlantic crossing was anything but pleasant. Packed cheek by jowl below decks, the steerage passengers barely saw the light of day – maybe 30 minutes a day they were allowed up on deck. During bad weather, which could last several days, they never made it on deck – not a pleasant experience for anyone.

As many as 1.5 MILLION people may have traveled to the “better land” in these ships.

It was an interesting visit seeing the ship and hearing the stories along with all the information they provided.

After completing our tour, we boarded the bus and headed to our next stop for the evening – Waterford. Once there we did a quick walking tour highlighting the Viking, and Norman Conquest of the city and visiting some of the significant sites.

Monday – Day one of our C.I.E tour of Ireland and we discovered there was a 2 PM bus and walking tour set up to begin the adventure. Our guide, Felicity, introduced us to Dublin City while we drove around and looked at the sites. Unfortunately, being on a small bus, doesn’t really give you a chance to take any good pictures plus the fact it was trying to rain didn’t help much. However, the history and sites were really interesting. We drove over the River Liffey a couple of times on 16^th century and 21^st century bridges to see the sites.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We stopped to see the statue of Oscar Wilde and the Children’s Play area near by which is across the street from his childhood home. The structures are designed to match the fairy tale of the Selfish Giant, a tale written by Wilde.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Soon we were at Trinity Collage, established in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I, our next stop, which included a walking tour with a student (from upstate New York working on his PHD) and a visit to the Library and a viewing of the Book of Kells.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The College has about 17,000 students and takes up a fair piece of property in Dublin. The walking tour highlighted some of the key spots on the campus, talked a little about being a student there and it’s requirements and ended up a the College library.

 

 

 

 

The Trinity College Library is the largest research library in Ireland.   Due to its status as a ‘copy right’ library, it receives two copies of EVERY book published in Great Britain and Ireland every year – that’s a LOT of books. Incidentally, any profit made from a creative endeavor, books, paintings etc. is NOT Taxable. Creativity is supported by the government. The Library we walked through holds much older publications, the Book of Kells and Brian Boru Harp.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Book of Kells is from 800 AD and is an illuminated manuscript Gospel book in Latin containing the four Gospels of the New Testament together other examples of monastic literacy. It was created in a Columban monastery in Ireland. Needless to say, the book is old, protected under glass and tightly secured. The colors of the book were amazing, the inks being layered on calfskin, and produced with natural plants and minerals . The Brian Boru Harp is the oldest surviving Irish harp and is the model for the insignia of Ireland. It dates from 14^th or 15^th Century. It too is protected behind a glass case.

 

 

 

After getting back on the bus we motored back to our hotel for a welcome drink and a quick review of the upcoming events. I’m sorry we didn’t get more of an introduction to Dublin on our tour but we come back at the end of the trip around Ireland and we may have additional time to explore this City.