Lover of Wine – Travel along on our adventures – DAVID & JANEEN

Saturday was focused on Domaine Drouhin Oregon.

This French producer arrived in the Valley in 1987 and this weekend was the 30^th anniversary celebration.   We have the honor of being Wine club members #1 here – and wear name badges accordingly.  During the day was an open house where we were able to meet the wine maker, Véronique (again)  .

and her brothers Laurent, Philippe and Fredric (also for the 2^nd or third time). With the exception of Laurent, they all live in Beaune France where the family is from and where they operate the Joseph Drouhin Wine company. Also present were two of Véronique’s three children – Laurene and Arthur.

Unfortunately, Louise was unable to be present for the weekend. Each of her children has wines with their names – Pinot Noir for Laurene and Louise and Chardonnay for Arthur. All of the current release wines were being poured, with the exception of the Louise ,which is limited in production to only 100 cases or so and thus not generally opened for these events.

 

Open House included a photo booth set up and were we able to get a couple of pictures with most of the family.

 

 

That evening was another celebration, but limited in who might attend. Fortunately, we were invited and with about 70 others were led through the vineyards where they had set up a ‘dining room’ and ‘kitchen’ for the celebration.

The menu was paired with older Domaine Drouhin wines along with several wines from France. We started with Aromatic Salt Roasted Spot Prawns paired with a

2009 DDO LE Chardonnay and a

2010 Clos des Mouches Blanc from France.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Duck Sausage, Duck Confit, and cornbread salad with roasted new potatoes and foraged mushrooms followed this. This was paired with a 1998 DDO Pinot Noir – Lauréne

and a 2008 Clos des Mouches Rouge from Burgundy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The cheese course included several lovely local cheeses paired with a 1987 Joseph Drouhin Musigny, Grand Cru – a 30 year old Burgundy that was still vibrant and full of fruit.  A real treat to have this lovely wine as part of our meal.

 

Chef Vitaly Paley and his team did a wonderful job both in preparing and presenting the lovely meal.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our table included a group of 5 folks – who are law partners in a firm in the Portland Area. After the initial greetings we got into the evening with wine stories and tales of various experiences. It was a very pleasant evening and if they happen to read this blog I hope they will leave a comment!

 

The view from the vineyard of Mt Hood was beautiful.

It was a fantastic evening with wonderful wines, great foods and interesting people.

For some reason, the check engine light has been on in the Prius for a few days. While I was convinced it was related to the loose gas gap, even after driving 100 miles or so, it hadn’t gone off so I headed out to the local Toyota shop in McMinnville to have it checked. There is something to be said about small towns – in addition to the lovely waiting room, there was fresh coffee, fresh fruit, pastries and they started to make popcorn before I left. After waiting for an hour, I finally had it confirmed the trouble light was related to the gas cap and they didn’t charge me for the service! Where else could I have gone and gotten this done for free! Not Los Angeles that’s for sure or even Portland I’m guessing.

After getting back to the cottage, I took Janeen to the Curves gym in Newberg and while she was getting all hot and sweaty I had the car washed and picked up a DUTCH Bros. coffee. After returning to our ‘home’ we had a salad lunch and relaxed for a while.

When we first starting visiting in the area there were not a lot of ‘good’ restaurants. That’s changed over the years of course, but one of the ones we went to early on in our travels was the Joel Palmer House.

This place was started a while back with the emphasize on mushrooms – meaning most, if not all, of the dishes served had some form of mushroom included in the presentation, sauce or as part of the actual entrée being served. Since we were last here, son Christopher has taken over from his father (who started the place) and is doing a great job of changing up and moving forward. As it was a lovely evening ,we chose to sit outside on the patio – a good choice for the evening.

We brought our own bottle, a 2009 brut L’Ermitage from Roederer Estate in the Anderson Valley of CA. We stopped there on our way north and picked this up to see how it compared with other sparkling wines we have had.   Turns out it held up very well! The restaurant has a 3 and a 5-course pris fixe option and we selected the 3 course with an extra appetizer course.

To start our meal we were presented with a Carrot Tartare – basically raw carrots with some spices. It was interesting, but not something that jumped up and said “great” to either of us.

 

 

As an appetizer we had the Foie gras – presentation and taste were both quite good. From there I had the Wild Mushroom Risotto and Janeen had the Escargot – with lemon-lime emulsion and truffle.  They provided this interesting taste between courses.  

 

For our main, Janeen had the Duck Breast –Chinese 5 spice scented with blueberry and foie gras and I had the

 

 

 

 

 

Elk Rib eye with lentils, chili and onion demi-glace. For dessert, Janeen chose Lemon Cake and berries with orange lavender glaze and I enjoyed a selection of Artisan Cheeses.

 

A Lovely time for sure.

We started the day at Walter Scott Winery.

This small producer in the Eola-Amity Hills area of the Willamette Valley. We were there to taste through their current releases with Andy Steinman. Andy and his wife Sue became major investors in the Winery in 2012. We have know Andy and Sue for some 15 or more years having met them at World of Pinot Noir which is held around Janeen’s birthday (March) on the Central Coast of California and then again at various Pinot Noir events in Oregon. Ken Pahlow and wife Erica Landon started Walter Scott wines in 2009 sharing faculties with others until they could have the size and stability to have their own facility. In 2011 they moved to a leased facility in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. Production has grown from a beginning of 650 cases to over 5,000 now. With the help of Andy (now the CFO) and Sue (legal council to the team), Ken who’s background included working with Mark Viossak at St. Innocent Winery working various harvests at Patricia Green Cellars and a position at Evening Lands Vineyard gives him the background to work the wine making magic to produce some wonderful Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays.

A small production area, barrel storage and work space limits their production at this time but there are plans to expand the exterior portion of the facility to allow equipment storage outside – thus increasing both barrel and case storage inside.

 

We tasted two of the Pinot Noirs – 2015 Sojourner vineyards and 2015 Freedom Hill plus two chardonnay’s Freedom Hill vineyard and X Novo Vineyard.

We found the wines pleasant but the Chardonnays more drinkable now while the Pinot Noirs need a few more years to mature.

 

 

 

 

 

After tasting the wines we had a delightful lunch in McMinnville and then decided to visit the Willamette Valley Cheese plant close to Amity. This small producer is making artisanal cheeses from local dairy cows.

While a delightful visit there wasn’t any cheese that really said ‘take me home’ but we enjoyed the exposure to alternative cheese taste just the same.

It’s been several days since we updated our blog. During that time we left the Oregon Coast and travelled inland to my sisters place in Portland. This was a scheduled stop for laundry duty, pick up stuff we had shipped to her place and get organized for our stay in the Willamette Valley. During our stay with Marilynn, we visited Cindy and Jon where our son Ryan and his husband Chris joined up for a visit. They (Ryan and Chris) are on a 2-week trip, which included a stop in the SF Bay area before joining us at the Cousins Reunion on the Oregon Coast. They are now in Yellowstone prior to heading to Wyoming to visit a relative of Chris before they head to Salt Lake City and home. We won’t see them for several months and not even sure where we will see them again.

This morning, after repacking the car, we drove to the Willamette Valley and more specifically Stoller Winery. We had arranged, through Melissa Burr, Director of Winemaking, to stay on property at Stoller in one of their cottages. This lovely 1 bedroom place is just right for our needs. It comes with a full kitchen, nice living room and bedroom.

Couldn’t ask for a better place to stay.    Prior to hooking up with Madison (who took us to the cottage) we had a lovely sandwich from Red Hills Market and a Stoller Rosé on the lawn outside the tasting room. A nice spot, lovely view and delicious sandwich.

Now it is off to McMinnville and do some shopping for our meals in the Cottage.

 

 

For dinner, we hooked up with Emily Bachand and went to her husband Paul’s restaurant Recipe, part deux.   This small place in Newburg doesn’t have a real kitchen and all the ‘hot’ stuff comes out of a food truck they have parked behind the place.

Paul’s first restaurant, Recipe, had a fire and this place lets him keep going until the old place is rebuilt. When we arrived, I had brought a lovely bottle of burgundy from 2005 – Savigny Les Beaune from Josephn Drouhin but we started off with a lovely Chablis. This parried well with our Oysters   on the half shell, Lemon Wagyu steak tartare and the Torchon of foie gras. We followed this with other stuff which I didn’t write down and a couple of great desserts.

Here’s a picture taken of our family while visiting Domaine Drouhin yesterday.

Wine Tasting! Something we actually know something about was the theme for the day on Friday with the Family. With an early start, 8:15 AM, we headed out to our first stop at Domaine Drouhin Oregon. This wine producer uses the theme “French Soul, Oregon Soil” as they are from France with a very long history producing Burgundy wines and came to Oregon in 1987 and set up shop. After 30 years they have produced a number of really interesting wines with the focus on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (really Pinot is the main thing in my opinion).

Our group of 43 folks were met at the winery and taken to an outdoor area with lovely shade trees overlooking the vineyard and tasted through 5 different wines.

All in all a wonderful way to start the morning.

After finishing our tasting, we headed over to Stoller Vineyards for another delightful tasting where we all had a sack lunch from the Red Hills Market.

 

From there off to Roco Winery and our final spot for the day.

After a leisurely drive back to Gleneden Beach a nice dinner and family sing along was part of a birthday celebration for several of our group.

The last couple of days have been focused on family. A gathering of cousins and their kids had been in the planning for the better part of a year. This involved joining three branches of the family on my (Neyman) mother’s side. My mother had two brothers – Ted and Bob. Between them they had a total of 8 kids. These “kids” are my cousins and we have gathered together to catch up, share stories and photos and have a good time.   This includes my three siblings – Georgia, Richard and Marilynn and their grown children and grandchildren. During a head count at dinner tonight, we totaled 47 people!

Several have come from great distances: Kathee N. from New York state, Bill N. and Jason L. from Virginia, Roy N. parked his boat in Tahiti and flew in to join the group.   All in all we are a great bunch of people. It is really neat to get to know some of the second and third generations who have joined with us here on the Coast of Oregon, the oldest being 78, and the youngest, 2.

On Sunday, with Janeen driving, we left Fortuna CA, unrecognized sister to famous Ferndale CA (Victorian Gingerbread guardian of Avenue of the Giants, Redwoods Trails), we headed North along 101 coast route crossing the Klamath River Bridge. At each end of the bridge are gold painted bears.

The Golden Bears on the Klamath River Bridge weren’t always golden. Sometime in the late 50’s or early 60’s mysteriously the cement bears on the old bridge would turn golden over-night. Despite efforts of the State Highway Department with buckets of turpentine swabbing off that golden color, overnight the bears would be returned to their golden hue.

Midday, we stopped at Gold Beach along the Rogue River for a seafood lunch at the Port Hole Café.  

From there more redwoods, road construction and , ultimately ,to Coos Bay , Oregon for the night.

Monday morning, bright and early, we hit the road to Eugene to visit with Cousin Barbara Lee and her husband John Costello who hosted us for the evening.

After an afternoon snacks, we went out for a quick tour of the City including a visit to OSU campus, the neighboring town of Springfield (hometown of Ken Kesey author and LSD ‘hippy’ and Matt Groening the Simpsons creator) then an afternoon beverage along the Willamette River at a lovely spot outside McMenamins by the River.

After a wonderful breakfast – thank you John – we headed out on the next day of our adventure.

Our very good (and old) friend Joel raves about King Estate Winery all the time so we had to visit.

Although the winery is about 30 minutes out of Eugene, and not really on our route to Gleneden Beach, it was well worth the extra time to cycle past. It is on top of a hill surrounded by vineyards and rolling hills.

 

 

 

 

 

The lavender was in full bloom. Gorgeous!

We started off in the tasting room sampling most of their releases – including some not on the tasting menu.

  Apparently they are well known for their Pinot Gris – which seems to be one of the largest production wines. They also do Pinot Noir, Chardonnay from the estate and Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling, Syrah and Viognier sourced from vineyards in the Columbia Valley. With an overall case production in the 350,000 range they are a very large producer and distribute to all 50 states and several foreign countries.

After tasting we went out to the patio for lunch. With a cold bottle of Viognier we enjoyed a starter of warm country olives followed by potato cakes with herb crusted pork belly with jam and herbs and a pulled pork shoulder with apple butter glaze, potato roll, sharp cheddar, coleslaw and sweet potato frites. Everything was quite delicious and, as we so often do, we had them split the items into 2 servings which was plenty.

After lunch we headed back north winding our way through the back roads ultimately getting to the Oregon Coast (again) and route 101 North to Gleneden Beach and The Beachcombers Haven for the gathering of Cousins.

Saturday turned into a big circle drive – see the highlighted ‘loop’ below.

We started out in Fortuna and made our way to Ferndale to walk amongst the Victorian storefronts on Main Street and to get a feel for this city. Ferndale contains dozens of well-preserved Victorian  storefronts and homes.

Ferndale, sometimes referred to as “Cream City”, is known for well-preserved Victorian store-fronts on main street and homes throughout the community, which are also known as “Butterfat Palaces,” due to their construction wherein considerable wealth was generated in the dairy industry. Many of these buildings date from the 1880s.

We also ventured into the Ferndale Museum that has various exhibits and artifacts documenting the community.

This included an old switchboard – Pacific Telephone toll board and various telephone devices. All we needed was Lilly Tomlin to be sitting in front of it!

One of the permanent displays includes a seismograph. This was placed in the building 1962 after a long use at UC Berkeley and has been maintained every since. It continues to operate and record earthquakes from all over the world and the device is serviced on a weekly basis – changing the recording paper and oiling the device.

After walking around Ferndale, we decided to head towards Cape Mendocino. This area of the coast is the westernmost point on the coast of California. The road wound through the forests up and over a couple of coastal mountains and in areas had been washed out. So not such a good road.   As we topped one rise and could see the ocean, the clouds were beautiful as they came in the valley.

 

The coastline in this area was wind swept and without any improvements as this part of the coast seems to have been forgotten.

A travel magazine has called this area “too lovely to be believed, perhaps too beautiful to last.” It has been recognized as the top “still wild” place in California. The area is the only significant stretch of California without a shoreline highway, and so far has “thus escaped tourism’s aggressive paws.”

Close to the coastline is which is a small town with the claim to fame as the site of the first oil well drilled in California. Not much else there – unless you consider all the area where I’m certain marijuana is grown. Further along the loop road we took was the even small town of Honeydew.

After a quick pit stop, we continued on our travels through more redwoods and beautiful coastal countryside. The only downfall of this overall loop was the road conditions – constantly running into areas where the road has washed out, been destroyed by earth movement and generally it sucked.

 

Today was a travel day – so we backed up and headed out from Beth’s home in Sonoma heading north – to Fortuna. As we had lots of time, we hooked a left on route 128 at Cloverdale and wound our way through the coastal mountains, past redwoods and a BUNCH of different wineries. The views were wonderful and the cooling winds delightful. The only winery we decided to stop at was Roederer – they make sparkling wine.   

Roederer Estate Brut is the first sparkling wine to be produced by the French Champagne house of Louis Roederer. With a 200-year tradition in France, it seemed like a good idea to start a project in the ‘new world’ and they purchased land, planted grapes and started the process in 1982. Over the years various changes have occurred but in large part they have kept to the traditions of Champagne region. Now operated by the son of the founder, Frédéric Rouzaud, four basic sparkling wines are produced. As it was lunchtime, and warm, it seemed fitting to have a bottle of their Brut Rosé Multi Vintage with our cheese, crackers and fruit.

  

The setting on the patio was nice with a bunch of lavender blooming near us that was alive with bees.

After finishing our lunch, and picking up a couple of extra bottles for later, we got back into the car and headed to Route 1 and the coast. Along the way there were of course large trees, tunnels of trees over the road, beautiful sights to see for sure.

Once going along the coast, again the views were spectacular with clear beaches, rocky shores and cool breezes. Not sure I’d want to be here in the winter months but right now it was lovely.

We are now in our hotel for the evening (altho I think we might go get something to eat) and tomorrow will explore the area around Fortuna and Ferndale.