Notre Dame de Paris

Our first trip to Europe was in the summer of 2004.  This included a couple of days in Paris.  Unfortunately, not knowing anything about France, we ending our visit around Bastille Day mid-July where it was usually HOT and extremely busy with many places closing to join in the celebration.  We did visit many of the important sites including getting to Notre-Dame de Paris.  However, on this visit, we didn’t go inside.  

These two pictures were taken during a visit in December 2018. Really difficult to see all the interior of the Cathedral.

Several years later we returned to Paris and finally went inside this monumental Cathedral.  On our return visits we always made a point of going inside and admiring the beauty of the place including a couple years, when we were in Paris for Christmas.  The interior always struck us as filled with art, beautiful stained- glass windows, but also quite dark.  Maybe it was the time of day we visited or the lack of sun coming into the interior, but the overall impression I had was it was dark.

In the Spring of 2019, we were traveling in Europe, first in the south of France and then into the Amsterdam to join a cruise ending in Switzerland, eventually finding our way back to Paris.  While we were traveling in Southern France, we learned of the fire at Notre-Dame de Paris.  

What ever caused the fire, it significantly damaged the Cathedral. The picture on the right highlights how much of the roof was destroyed.

We, along with all those we were in contact with, found it hard to believe that this centuries old Cathedral could be in ruins or damaged beyond repair.   In May, heading towards Giverny and Monet’s Garden we did have a moment to stand and look at the Cathedral with the protective fencing around it and the gaping hole in the roof.

A massive amount of scaffolding encasing the Cathedral

The main structure was intact; firefighters had saved the façade, towers, walls, buttresses, and stained-glass windows. The stone vaulting that forms the ceiling of the cathedral had several holes but was otherwise intact.  The Great Organ, which has over 8,000 pipes and was built by François Thierry in the 18th century was also saved but damaged by water.  Because of the renovation, that had been underway, the copper statues on the spire had been removed before the fire.  About 500 firefighters helped to battle the fire, President Emmanuel Macron said. 

Notre-Dame de Paris is a medieval Catholic cathedral on the Île de la Cité (an island in the River Seine), and has been a major part of the City since it was consecrated in the late 1100’s.  It has been considered one of the finest examples of French Gothic architecture. Several attributes set it apart from the earlierRomanesque style, including its pioneering use of the rib vault and flying buttress, its enormous and colorfulrose windows, and the naturalism and abundance of its sculptural decoration.  Notre-Dame is also exceptional for its three pipe organs (one historic) and its immense church bells.

 General Jean-Louis Georgelin, a French army officer, was chosen to head the restoration.  He ran the restoration with military precision – keeping the focus on the work and not allowing outside pressures (The Press was very difficult) to gum up the works.

Our first view of the interior were stunning

The official reopening on December 7 drew unprecedented international attention, with President Emmanuel Macron hosting presidents from 40 nations to celebrate this historic milestone. This extraordinary diplomatic assembly demonstrated the cathedral’s significance not just as a French monument, but as a symbol of global cultural heritage and international cooperation.

December 8 marked a profound spiritual milestone as archbishops, from across France and beyond, gathered for the first Mass in the restored cathedral.   On December 9, 2024, the Cathedral reopened to the public and we were some of the very lucky ones to have entrance to the Cathedral that day.  We arrived at our appointed time of 3:45, and after waiting in line for a bit, were allowed into the Cathedral.

The statuary, particularly the Pieta, behind the Alter has been marvelously cleaned – and a new contemporary alter installed.

First impression?  Light – light everywhere.  The interior of the place had been dramatically cleaned.  Remember, the place had not had a ‘bath’ for centuries and the candle smoke and other contaminates had darkened the interior dramatically.  

The ancient relic that many Christians revere as Jesus Christ’s “Crown of Thorns” — a circular band of branches encased in a gilded golden tube.

I am sorry I didn’t get all the names for the various chapels – they had all been throughly cleaned and were looking fantastic.

“The color of the restored interior will be “a shock” to some returning visitors, observed General Jean-Louis Georgelin, the French army officer heading the restoration.”  The interior elevations regained their original color, since the chapels and side aisles were very dirty. Of course, it is not a white color. The stone has a blonde color, and the architects are very attentive to obtaining a patina which respects the centuries. Although General Georgelin did not live to see the opening, he saw the dramatic results of his working groups effort.

For the festive season, an exceptional Neapolitan nativity scene takes up residence in Notre-Dame de Paris. An 18th-century masterpiece, it unveils 150 santons showcasing Italian craftsmanship and Christmas traditions.

There are two PBS Nova presentations that are quite interesting to watch:

We also experienced the power of the restored organ as we stayed for vespers.

For anyone who has ever visited Notre-Dame de Paris, I encourage you to return and see how wonderful it now looks.  

We were able to stay inside and walk around as long as we liked.  During our visit, a Vespers Service was held and as we were leaving a full Mass was getting started.  We were so pleased to have had the opportunity to see the Cathedral. 


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Claude Monet, Rouen Cathedral and a Christmas Market

Several years ago, I read Mad Enchantment: Claude Monet and the Painting of the Water Lilies by Ross King.  While this was really a focus on the water-lilies he painted, it did make me aware of Monet in a much different way and in particular his impressionist paintings of the Cathedral of Rouen.  Over the course of several years, Monet painted more then 30 different versions of the Cathedral during different times of day and periods of the year.  When Monet painted all of these impressions the Cathedral of Rouen was the tallest building in the world.  Unfortunately, I have no recollection of seeing any of the ones he did, at least one of which is in the National Gallery of Art in DC, but I did get to see the actual Cathedral. Our sunny day made the façade shine.

Rouen Cathedral is famous for its three towers, each in a different style. The cathedral, built and rebuilt over a period of more than eight hundred years, has features from Early Gothic to late Flamboyant and Renaissance architecture.  These towers are also famous for being the tallest in France with its 19th-century spire rising to just under 500 feet! 

The cathedral has a fine collection of stained glass from the 13th to the 20th century.

The stained-glass windows were installed progressively during the cathedral’s construction. One of the oldest examples is the booksellers’ rose in the north transept. 

A quite interesting site is the staircase that leads to the Cathedral Library – This late Gothic stair case was built, under the direction of archbishop William d’Estouteville, by Guillaume Pontis in 1480. The stairs used to lead to the Cathedral library which was situated just above the Flamboyant Gothic arched door. In 1788 another story was built above the library to hold the Cathedral records and the upper flights of stairs were added then.

However lovely the Cathedral is, we have been in a number of different ones over the last couple of months and we really wanted to spend some time in the Christmas Market so we didn’t tour the inside fully.

The Rouen Christmas market did not disappoint.  There were a number of stalls and lots of holiday decorations. The stall with UGG- like slippers and silk scarves also provided gifts and a story. The center city also provided a fine Vietnamese meal for Beth, David, Ryan, Christopher, and Janeen before heading to the car.

After the Market, as we headed back to our car, we passed under Gros-Horloge a 14th century astronomical clock. The clock is installed in a Renaissance arch crossing the Rue du Gros-Horloge. The mechanism is one of the oldest in France, the movement having been made in 1389.  

A fascinating piece of history.

Have you enjoyed our adventures? Please leave a comment and let us know!

Norte-Dame de Chartres

Once we left the river cruise, we traveled by train to Livarot France – where our son has a ‘gite’ (holiday home) and is developing a B&B operation.  (https://www.ledouetfleury.fr/en) Beth, our friend from Sonoma, joined us for several days.  She had never been to this part of France before and was anxious to see where our son and his husband, Christopher, lived.  Livarot is about 3 hours northwest of Paris.

Livarot-Pays-d’Auge, as it is officially known, is a commune in the department of Calvados and became the central municipality of the 22 former communes in January 2016.  With a population of just over 6,200 it is known for cheese – a major cheese plant is in the town producing the three main cheeses of Normandy – Livarot Cheese, Normandy Camembert and Pont-l’Eveque.  A free tour of the factory is available most days and Beth along with Christopher took the tour (I went a week or so later after Beth had left).  Livarot also has a large apple processing plant turning apples into juice and apple sauce.

After settling in for the evening, we gathered our resources and planned our next trip – to Norte-Dame de Chartres.  

The construction Chartres Cathedral started about 20 years after the more famous Cathedral in Paris (one of the other Norte-Dame Cathedrals).  Chartres is one of the best-known and most influential examples of High Gothic and Classic Gothic architecture,

It stands on a Romanesque basements, while its north spire is more recent (1507–1513) and is built in the more ornate flamboyant style.  Long renowned as “one of the most beautiful and historically significant cathedrals in all of Europe,” it was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1979, which called it “the high point of French Gothic art” and a “masterpiece”.


The Cathedral is well-preserved and well-restored: the majority of the original stained-glass windows survive intact, while the architecture has seen only minor changes since the early 13th century. The cobalt blue of the windows makes Chartres unique. The building’s exterior is dominated by heavy flying buttresses which allowed the architects to increase the window size significantly, while the west end is dominated by two contrasting spires – a 349 ft plain pyramid completed around 1160 and a 377 ft early 16th-century Flamboyant spire on top of an older tower. Equally notable are the three great façades, each adorned with hundreds of sculpted figures illustrating key theological themes and narratives.

Flying-buttress-supporting-the-upper-walls-and-counterbalancing-the-outward-thrust-of-the-vaulted-ceiling-allowing-thin-walls-and-greater-space-for-windows

One of the more interesting aspects of the Cathedral, which makes it stand out from others, is that it has a medieval labyrinth dating from the early 13th century on the floor.  The labyrinth is a stone inlay with only one path whereas a maze has a choice of paths.  

This labyrinth has 11 concentric circles and rounded sides with twists and turns to lead to the center and then back out and symbolizes the journey of Christ’s salvation. 

The entire area around the Cathedral is under construction making the area a pedestrian area only with paving stones replacing the roadway.  Unlike the other cathedrals we have visited during this adventure, there was NOT a Christmas Market happening which was nice.  

A simple nativity scene created inside the Cathedral.

There is extensive restoration happening both on the  exterior and interior of the building so there was scaffolding making it more difficult to see some of the features of the building.  Once inside, we picked up the audio guide and began our tour – it was one of the best audio tours I think we have had!  It described the Cathedral in detail and highlighted various areas.  

After completing our tour, we went across the ‘square’ and had a lovely lunch prior to heading back to Livarot.

Strasbourg – End of Christmas Market Cruise

We have left Germany and are now in France!

We have been to Strasbourg several times but never in the winter months.  We had thought about taking the train from Paris during December, several years ago, to see the Christmas Market but never made it happen.  

The historic town with its cobbled lanes, half-timbered homes, giant stork nests, and impossible-to-resist pastry shops are hard to pass up for sure.  Strasbourg is a city with deep connections to both France and Germany having been ruled by both countries over the centuries.  Enchanting half-timbered houses line the canals of Petite France, one of the oldest districts, and the medieval cathedral—a religious institution has stood in its spot for 3,000 years—is extraordinary. 

Strasbourg calls itself the Capital of Christmas and really goes all out for the holidays. The Christmas tree on Place Kléber towers over hundreds of stalls—but it’s only one part of the market, which spreads through 10 neighboring locations, all of them both historic and wonderfully decorated. We focused our attention to the market around the Cathedral.

After a short coach ride, we walked the merry streets to get to the Cathedral and its adjacent Market.  

Once we made it to the Cathedral, I checked on a restaurant we had visited in the past that had a major focus on cheese – La Cloche à Fromage.  Unfortunately, it was fully booked for lunch so we ended up in a very nice place a few doors down.  Louisa, the Cruise Director, joined us for lunch and it was a very nice time allowing us all to get to know each other better.

Theresa, Beth, Louisa add David enjoying an Alsatian Lunch.

After lunch, we headed out to look over more of the market.

This Christmas Market River Cruise has been quite an adventure.  While there is one more stop, Basel, it’s not likely we will visit its market with all the other things that are happening.  I was very pleased to have Barbara take time out of her schedule to visit the Ship.  I had met Barbara a couple of years ago on our first UniWorld Mystery Cruise and have delighted to take over 200 plus selfies with her since that time.  

Our group of ‘Framily’ consisted of family and new friends and it was an enjoyable experience.  Who knows, maybe we will reconnect on a future adventure.  Here are a few pictures of our adventure that didn’t make the original posting.

Did I mention that Bill liked a lot of bread?

Some group shots of Tiyeme, Michael, Chris, Bill and Theresa, Terri and Jason

Until Next time!  Merry Christmas and a very Happy New Year.  

Family and Friends enjoying a wonderful adventure

This may end our Christmas Market Cruise, but we are heading out to Normandy with Beth to be with our son Ryan and his husband Chris for the next couple of weeks and then to Wiesbaden to be with our entire family for Christmas.  There are lots of adventures yet to come so stay tuned.

Your comments are always appreciated.  

Baden-Baden our final German Christmas Market

While many of our group were out tasting vinegar, we headed into Baden-Baden for a brief walking tour and a visit to the Christmas Market.  Several years ago, we had been to Baden-Baden but on a Sunday when most places were closed – but given the Market, shopping wasn’t on our list of activities.   Having two young girls with us necessitated a visit to the ‘ride area’ of the Market where they could enjoy a couple of whirls around the merry-go-round and the Ferris wheel. 

This was a smaller market then others we had visited but still had all the traditional items – many booths selling ornaments, trinkets, jewelry, clothing and other items plus of course food and Glühein with the required souvenir mug.  

Did I mention our ‘group’ collected some mugs?

Of course, we had to have a snack before heading back to the ship.

After visiting various booths and picking up a few things we made our way back to the bus to have some relaxing time on the ship.

Did I mention the ship had a pool? Our Grands really enjoyed it.

That evening was a Celebration on board with lots of special treats and music.

The Crew sang Christmas songs for us in the Lounge

Baden-Baden was our last port of call in Germany. Tomorrow we head to France!