On Saturday Ryan and Chris few in from Bordeaux to spend a couple of days with us and explore the area. After picking them up from the airport in Nice we ventured to Antibes. Antibes is one of many Mediterranean resorts along the coast. Situated between Cannes and Nice, the place sticks out into the Mediterranean and has a long history.
After finding a parking place, we wandered through the old town taking in the views, visiting the Market and generally having a lovely time. As with all villages and towns the old section is filled with lovely winding streets, colorful buildings, small shops and hidden treasures.
Old for sureJust another streetThis market had books and household items.
Walking through the market, it is always a colorful experience. Fresh fish, meats, cheeses, spices, flowers all the things you need. For some reason I am always drawn to the display of spices.
Cheese – lots of cheeseCruising the MarketFruits, vegetables, other produceSpices – very colorfulHerbes ready to scoop and take home.
After a tasty lunch we walked along the coast taking in the views of the water and beaches.
Along the water at AntibesThe beach at AntibesLovely!
Once we were done with Antibes, we headed back to Vence to the apartment to get ready for dinner at The Bacchanles Restaurant. This is a one star Michelin place very close to our apartment. If we had walked it would have only been about 10 or 15 minutes (but a LOT of up and down) so we drove. No big deal. We arrived about 15 minutes before our reservation and relaxed prior to heading to our table.
The greeter looking for handouts.
I was unaware that Ryan and Chris had never been to a Michelin Star Restaurant. It was great to see their reaction to the place.
The restaurant is small – maybe 24 seats – as we entered the place it was clear there is a relationship with local artists. Modern art was displayed throughout the lobby and again upstairs around the dining room. Welcoming us as we came up the stairs was an older golden lab – must be the Owner’s dog as he just hung out in the dining room the entire time hoping for a treat to find its way to the floor for him to clean up.
The food and presentation where outstanding. Our reservation was for 7:30 and I don’t think we left much before 11 – just about right for a Michelin star restaurant in my opinion. Each of us had several amuse bouche, a couple of starters and at least one main plus dessert.
Fish from the med with pistachio glazeCheese course – roasted goat cheese with greensDuckFish courseCuttlefish, sea urchin, potatoRoasted cabbage with fava beansDuck for the soup
Percorino with hamLittle “mushroom” cap treatsBread with a pesto sauce
All in all it was a delightful evening and a treat to show Ryan and Chris was a Michelin star restaurant is all about.
The last two years, Janeen has spent her birthday in Macomb Illinois – first for her dad’s 100th birthday and the following year for his 101st. When asked where she wanted to be in 2019, she chose the Violet Festival in the south of France. Early spring seemed a nice remembrance of Dad Harold. As reported in prior posts, we are in the village of Vence about 14 miles from Nice. So to celebrate her birthday I found a lovely 2-star Michelin restaurant in Nice called Flaveur.
Flaveur is really a story of passion and family. Gaël and Mickaël Tourteaux, two brothers, share the kitchen and create wonderful foods.
Janeen loved the use of wood throughout the restaurant
They are both different and yet complementary bringing different approaches to the kitchen. We left Vence with lots of time to find the restaurant and find parking. After we spotted the location, and got ourselves parked, we found the street of the restaurant to be filled with construction equipment.
The front of the restaurant, not very imposing for sure.
Across the street from the restaurant is a major construction project but access was still possible to the restaurant. Arriving for at 12:45 for our 1:00 reservation, we found a small room decorated with figurative wooden sculptures, reminiscent of fish shapes, chic table art with beautiful glasses and a relatively camouflaged bar area behind which we surmise is the micro kitchen.
The menu had two options – the first was a menu that included starter and main or main and dessert or a tasting menu that covered a 6 or 7 different dishes. We opted for the all inclusive lunch menu.
The pictures tell the story of the meal – so I won’t speak too much about them expect to say it was wonderful. I would say, however, that the number of amuse bouche was amazing. There must have been 6 or 7 different little bites that were where served before the first course. Very nice.
Amuse bouche smoked mackerelAmuse bouche – cube of halibut and a delicious sea foam creamAmuse bouche – sardine pasteAmuse bouche – squid ink ballThe bread trayAmuse bouche – something wonderful but don’t remember.Amuse bouche – quinoa sesame broth
We were in the restaurant for almost 4 hours! Certainly not rushed and the pace of presentation of the various things was relaxed and quite enjoyable.
Smoked sword fish with salted lemon confitSeasonal local mediterranean tuna, squid, octapus with bouillon of vadouvan, cauliflower lovage. This had a hint of curry in the juice.Beef from Piedmont with eggplant and tamarind with wild pepper and oxalis
Our waiter guided us on what we had and suggested an approach to eating them when there where multiple items at the same time.
Dessert – Apples three way s from the tree in the yardDessert – Glass tube had a lime water to drink with the quince on the top plus bits of taste treatsDessert – Plum confiteThe final dessert – Tasty treats
At the end of the meal we asked to have a picture taken with the Chefs’ who joined our gallery of gourmand. All in all Janeen had a wonderful birthday in Nice.
Brothers and Chefs Gaël and Mickaë Tourteaux Restaurant Flaveur in NiceThe Birthday Girl!
The Violet Festival has taken place in Tourrettes-sur-Loup since 1952. Violet production became this village’s main agricultural activity in 1880. Today, only the Victoria variety is cultivated in Tourrettes-sur-Loup.
Every year in March, the Violet Festival rounds off the violet season and celebrates spring. The village streets are full of activity from in the mid morning with serenades and local dances. The whole village is full of flowers and the sweet scent of early spring. A Floral Procession starts in the early afternoon. This is why we came to this part of France – to see and be part of the celebration of violets in this little village.
The village grew out of the top of the mountain.
Tourrettes-sur-Loup is small with only about 4,000 folks.
Along the path into town – the village hangs off the hill.
Many of these have come to be part of the artisan community – potters, weavers, wood carvers, jewelers, painters, and sculptors – lots of people creating interesting things through the town. In fact, the City Council has encouraged artist by providing work areas within the old city.
Flowers decorated many of the shops.
We visited on a couple of days – just prior to the actual festival and again over the weekend during the actual event. On our first day it was quiet with little activity throughout the area. On Saturday, the first day of the festival, it was much busier with tents set up in the parking lot, musicians performing,
Music and period dress were around the city.Music!
strolling groups of performers Rose, Violet and Lily of the Valley dancers on stilts, and flower bedecked music float. While Violets are the reason, flower decoration was happening in several areas using local flowers. It reminded me of float building for the Rose Parade.
It took the better part of all day Saturday to complete this.The finished product.
OK, not so much as what happens in Pasadena on New Years Day but people decorating structures with pretty flowers was nice to see.
Violets spilling out of the basket.
The tents had various vendors showing off their wares and selling stuff, including a contingent from Japan. We picked up some local olive oil and balsamic both of which are lovely. When we first got into town on Saturday it wasn’t all that busy yet so we stopped at the boulangerie for a Coffee Long and a taste treat.
A coffee long and a taste treat.
When we came back on Sunday, admittedly it was later in the day and Sunday was the “big day”, the place was mobbed!
These three stilt walkers did a wonderful dance around the area. See Janeen in the background?Event the kids get into the decoration act.
The decorations around the square where beautiful, the stilt walkers were doing great and other musicians were pleasing the crowds.
Violet Festival decorations on many places.Decorations of flowers on even the various artworks around.Happy to be here.
On Monday we went back to this little village for lunch at Clovis. To say the place was quiet would be an understatement for sure. Many shops were closed, no crowds, all the tents in the parking lot had been removed and most of the flower decorations had been removed. However, our lunch at Clovis was wonderful.
Julien Bousseau Bistrot Gourmand Clovis
Chef Julien Bousseau, opened the restaurant in February 2012, dedicated to a creative, fresh and tasty cuisine. All the products he uses are chosen with the utmost care. They work as much as possible with local producers and our fruits and vegetables are largely from organic farming. The wine list was a surprise with some local and little known wonders and will also with renowned big estates.
‘Croquettes’ made with duck confit leg, cooked egg sauce made with rare peppers, fresh green peas and fava beans with mintSea weed tartar and potatoes, stew of smoked Kambu, herrings roe and oyster sorbetRoasted sea bass with almond crust, fennel, green apple & sea fennel slicesPoached duck filet, mandarine sauce infused with fresh violets, turnips and honey carrot and celeriac.
The menu is created on a two-week cycle to be able to capture all the seasonal variations that occur during the year. This is a Michelin 1-star restaurant and has been on the list for the last 7 years. We had a delightful lunch and would certainly consider returning for another menu.
Vence is our home village for our stay for the next couple of weeks.Located about 14 miles from Nice in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region in southeastern France Vence is home to about 19,000 folks.The history of the place goes back to a Roman settlement of Vintium and subsequently became the bishopric and domain of the Villeneuve family.The remnants of a Roman triumphal arch still remain including several “Marsellais Columns”
Vence our Village for two weeks.
Within the historic village, a medieval walled village, there are numerous interesting sights and monuments.
Porte du Peyra GateThe Peyra fountain was made in 1822 by architect Etienne Goby. It replaced another fountain dating back to 1578 and had replaced a fountain built in 1439 and is fed by the water from the Foux River.
The Peyra Gate was remodeled in 1810. The fountain was rebuilt in 1822 replacing an older one dating from 1578. Strolling through the area are various courtyards, dining areas and art displays.
A lovely plaza with fountain and monument.Walkways with restaurants along narrow streets.A little art decoration along the walkways in the old section of the city.
The castle is today the Fondation Èmile Hugues,a modern and contemporary art museum.
The Vence Cathedral – Built in the 14th century on the site of a Roman temple, it is the smallest one in France
The cathedral was built in the 4th century on the site of a Roman temple. The stone of the western façade dates from 239. Another, on the right, was engraved in December 220. Other stones in the external walls represent funerary dedications.
The stones on the wall around the cathedral represent funeral dedications to characters little-known from inhabitants of the City of Vintium during the Roman Period. This stone shows a dedication made by a Roman soldier Lucius Veludius to his wife Vibia Paterna, daughter of Mucius.
Also on the western side of the church, the Pierre du Tauroble evokes the cult of Cybele and also the Great mother of the Gods of Mount Ido.A chapel in the cathedral has a mosaic by Marc Chagall, dated 1911.
This passageway allows you to continue through the old town. In the past the Bishop’s palace was built against the side of the church similar to the one above the arches.Janeen at a lovely doorway
The rue des Portiques is a section of the old Roman road.
Rue des Portiques part of an old Roman road
After our stroll, we stopped for lunch across from the Plaza du Grand Jardin.This Plaza is where the local markets are held plus various events.Surrounding the Plaza are a number of restaurants and shops – well mostly restaurants actually.Sitting on a wide sidewalk enjoying the afternoon sun was a treat.After our lunch we headed back to the apartment to drop off the car and walk to the Chapel of the Rosary.
The Chapel of the Rosary, or also know as Chapel Matisse is a small place just a 5 minute walk from our apartment.
The Chapel of the Rosary is small but very beautiful.
After major surgery in 1942, Henri Matisse went too Nice to recover.During his recovery he met Monique Bourgeois who was his night nurse.During his recovery they became quite close and she modeled for Matisse on several occasions.However, she felt the calling and entered the convent and became Sister Jacques-Marie.
The view of the Chapel of the Rosary from across the small valley. The vertical windows are filled with stained glass.
Once she took her vows, she and Matisse continued to communicate and when she came to Vence he visited often.During one of his visits he learned the sisters were beginning the design for a chapel – a small chapel due to the facilities available.Matisse offered to help design the interior and he was granted the commission.Over the next four years of intensive and exclusive work in collaboration wit the Dominican community a final design was created and built.Henri Matisse is quoted as saying “Despite all of its imperfections, I see it (the chapel) as my masterpiece…It is the result of a life devoted to seeking the truth”…”What I have done in the chapel is create a religious space…To take an enclosed space of very reduced proportions and give it, solely by the play of cloys and lines, the dimensions of infinity.”
The Chapel is quite small and he created a space filled with light and color.
A view of the Interior of the Chapel of the Rosary designed by Henri Matisse
In addition to the Chapel there is a small museum of his work – many sketches for the Chapel as well as other subjects.
The Museum part of Chapel of the Rosary with works by Matisse.
The entire day was relaxing and filled with new sights and sounds.All in all another wonderful day in the South of France.
About 6 months ago, I asked Janeen where in the world she wanted to be for her birthday. After careful thought, she came up with Tourrettes-sur-Loup France. It seems that every year they have a harvest festival in March for the end of the Violet season. This has been going on for some time – with Tourrettes-sur-Loup being the center of the activities. Originally the festival had floats and parades but all of that has been scaled back in the last few years. The festival is first weekend in March (the violet’s growing season ends in early March) and includes various events including a conference on making perfumes, musical events, displays and lots of interesting activities.
Once we knew where we were going I started looking for a place to stay ending up at a Vacation Rental by Owner in the village of Vence (about 2km from Tourrettes-sur-Loup). The apartment is nice – 2 bedroom, living room, full kitchen all the things you need for an extended stay. After arriving in Marseille, we picked up our rental car and headed out. In hindsight, it would have been better to fly into Nice but I wasn’t thinking straight when I made the reservations. A little over 2 ½ hours after leaving the airport we found our way to the apartment.
Prior to arriving we had stopped at the market to pick up some essentials but really all we wanted was a place to settle in and recover from the flights (Dulles to Charles de Gaulle and then to Marseille). After a quiet dinner of cheese, fruit and beverages we hit the bed for the night.
The following day we headed out to Tourrettes-sur-Loup to check out the place and figure out parking and all the other stuff related to visiting a small village (maybe 4,000 residents) on a busy day. Well, on Thursday it was quiet – a bit chilly and without anybody around! A tasty meal of lamb and frites, was prepared by a French Vietnamese chef and staff and topped off with espresso.
A nice lunch – really wasn’t a busy spot.
We stopped at the Tourist Office and got all the necessary maps and schedules and then spent some time wandering around the old section of town. As you can imagine, it’s OLD with all the things that go with Medieval – cobble stone streets, old buildings, winding narrow passages and lots of great views of the Valley.
Shops and apartments along the path.I wouldn’t want to have to walk these every day – particularly in the rain!The cat isn’t anyone’s in particular, it just lives in the area and poses for pictures.
The City Council has made an effort to encourage artisans to create a workshop and sales space within the old section. This results in some interesting places – olive wood, pottery, metal work, sculpture and other shops are scattered among the more traditional gift shops
One of the gift shops along the way.
and restaurants. We had a very pleasant conversation with a jeweler (from Mexico) who is one of the craft people along the way. He recommended a restaurant (Bistrot Gourmand Clovis – a Michelin star restaurant) we are going to check out next week.
Olive wood bowls, platters and lots of other things. Great prices!Need a wooden spoon and fork?
After walking around a bit, we went to the Bastide aux Violettes – the museum of the history of Violets. Along the way we stopped in to a little chapel – very small with very modern art on the walls.
The chapel along the way.A modern take on an alter scene.A neat depiction of the flood and Noah.
After stopping for a few minutes, we continued on to the Violet Museum.
The Violet MuseumCute artwork!These had a number of these “planters” arranged around the outside of the museum. Very cute.
This is much more than a museum; this space is a really meeting place with past traditions and culture of the violet “Victoria”, cultivated in the village since 1880. The museum covers the history of growing and cultivation of the violet
Early violet production tools.More displays
and gives insight into the use of violets (primarily for perfume). There is also a green house where they grow them but only during the October to March growing season.
The Green House with my love looking at me.The end of the growing season, sadly.Proof positive we are both in the greenhouse.
More about the Violet Festival, Tourrettes-sur-Loup and Vence as we continue our exploration of the area.
This is the start of almost 3 months in Europe. We start in the South of France, head to Bordeaux, Belgium, Amsterdam (two river cruises start in Amsterdam) ending in Switzerland (after a 10 day tour) before heading back to Paris and flying home on May 15th. So there will be a lot to see and report. Stay tuned for more as we progress along this European adventure.
OK, it’s true we love wine. And yes, there are a variety of traditions and rituals we seem to follow from time to time. I was thinking about this recently when I ran across a blog on this very subject – and as I am not one to pass up good information I have borrowed liberally from it for this update to our Blog.
Tasting wine with friends is always a treat. Here we are with our besties Jessie and Phil.
Wine lovers develop certain habits that may seem strange in polite company. These customs and rituals are part of wine appreciation that you pick up as you progress through your wine education. They are also easy to ridicule, and become the essence of wine snobbery to the uninitiated. Yet they (almost always) serve a role in enhancing our enjoyment of the wine.
Drinking Pinot Noir with the winemaker is always a treat. This time Stoller Vineyards with winemaker Melissa
Did you know that we hold our glass up to the light and gaze intently at the liquid within as if it holds the secret of life? In truth, it may only hold the secret of the next few minutes, but this visual inspection allows us to evaluate the wine’s clarity. Similarly, by tilting the glass against a white background, we can see the wine’s color and discern a clue to its age and condition. The color of the wine around the rim changes with age, and if the wine (white or red) seems murky, it may be over the hill or have been stored improperly and exposed to heat.
Janeen with a bottle of Native9. Winemaker James Ontiveros’s a night generation farmer in California and celebrates his heritage with the wine he makes from his family’s 8-acre Rancho Ontiveros Vineyard
This visual inspection is also why we hold the glass by the stem; fingerprints on the bowl are unsightly, and our hands may warm the wine. True wine geeks will hold the glass by its foot, with or without the pinky extended. This shows sophistication but requires care in performing the next tasting ritual – The Swirl. Swirling the glass becomes second nature to wine lovers – we’ve been spotted swirling water glasses, juice drinks and the occasional cocktail in unguarded moments. Yet it serves two purposes. First, it completes our visual appreciation as we note how the wine cascades down the side of the glass. Try this experiment: Take two identical wine glasses and fill one with water no more than a quarter to the top. Then pour an equal amount of red wine into the second glass. Swirl each glass. The water will simply fall back to the bottom, but the wine should form rivulets that flow more slowly, as if clinging to the side of the glass. These rivulets are called “legs” or “tears,” depending on whether you’re feeling sexist or emotional. A wine that has “nice legs” will have good body and will taste richer, perhaps with more alcohol, than one that leaves little to behold after a good swirl.
I really am of the opinion that lots of glasses on the table is a good thing.
The swirl’s second purpose is to release the wine’s aromas into the bowl of the glass so we can perform the next step: Stick our nose in the glass and inhale deeply. (Swirling and sticking one’s proboscis below the rim are two very good reasons not to fill the glass too high!)
Champagne – Always an enjoyable beverage
Finally, after all this rigmarole, we actually put the wine into our mouth. But we don’t swallow it at first. Rather, we gargle it or swish it around the inside of our mouth. By aerating the wine and swishing it noisily around our gums, we theoretically release more of the wine’s flavors. We certainly annoy anyone around us.
Even after we swallow (or spit if we’re at a wine tasting and have a LOT to taste), we’re not done. There’s still the “Oooh – ahh” of sucking in air to enjoy the wine’s leftover flavors that linger in the mouth. This is yet another way of accentuating the wine’s flavors.
And then, maybe we’ll smile. But there’s still one more ritual: We pull out our smartphones and post a photo of the wine on social media. Facebook and apps like Delectable or Vivino make it easy to catalog and brag about the wines we drink. For what’s the point of enjoying a wine if we can’t share it?
From time to time it is a treat to open a BIG bottle. In this case it’s a 1995 magnum of Sparkling wine from Argyle.
We ended last year in Paris and will do the same thing again this year. Needless to say, the time in between our two visits to Paris
Chris, David, janeen and Ryan celebrating on the last night in Paris 2018.
has been FILLED with travel, family, joy and some sadness. What has been planned as a “gap year” of travel has continued a second year. Using our son’s home in Springfield VA as our base, we traveled up and down the east coast of the US and Canada, back and forth to Macomb Illinois and across country twice – once by plane and once by car.
The first several months of 2018 were spent caring for Janeen’s dad in Macomb Illinois.
Harold and his great grad daughter
After living in a Senior Independent Living situation for 10 years or so, it was time to move into assisted living care. He spent his 101st birthday
Janeen and her dad on his 101st birthday.
(March 5th) in Wesley Village surrounded by friends. Janeen got to spend her birthday in Macomb too (March 6th) where we had a celebration at the local Mexican restaurant and a Margarita (no salt, over ice please).
Janeen with her birthday drink!
After celebrating birthdays, we were back in Springfield for a brief visit and a flight to California.
A second birthday dinner for Janeen was held once we were back in Virginia.
We had planned on returning to CA to visit our various doctors and getting checked up to make sure all systems were continuing to operate as designed. While there we visited with close friends, ate great foods and visited the Huntington Gardens.
We returned to Virginia in time for D.C. Cherry Blossom time.
Cherry Blossom time at the Tidal Basin
It seems the day we decided to go to the Tidal Basin was ideal – blossoms floating in the air, nice breeze and a beautiful day. We didn’t stay in VA long as we head back to Macomb to check on Janeen’s dad before turning South towards Savannah Georgia. Stops along the way included Cincinnati Ohio, Maysville Kentucky, Bourbon country, Nashville TN
The Ryman Auditorium, the original home of the “Grand Ole Opry” in Nashville
and Savannah Georgia. Coming back north we stopped in Charleston, and Asheville NC before getting back to Virginia.
After getting our clothes clean, the car washed and helping Jason (our son) do a batch of home brew beer, we packed up again and headed north. This time through Pennsylvania stopping at Longwood Gardens
The Italian fountains at Longwood Gardens
and Bethlehem before continuing on to the Finger Lakes of NY. I admit to not being impressed with the wines we tasted in the Finger Lakes but it was beautiful all the same.
Finger Lake wine tasting
Next stop Niagara Falls.
Boy, that’s a lot of water falling over the edge around Horseshoe Falls!
The Falls
We spent a couple of days on the Canadian side of the Falls and had a enjoyable time. From there a stop in Quebec City (it was hot which seemed to surprise the locals) and then a long drive to Prince Edward Island.This is the local of Anne of Green Gables – we didn’t actually make it to the “spot” but we certainly saw a lot of the countryside and they do raise a LOT of potatoes!
Winding our way south through Saint John New Brunswick and into Portland Maine we stopped in Boxford Mass to visit with friends then
Joel and Wendy, our hosts in Boxford Mass
found our selves back in Virginia in time for Hamilton the Musical at the Kennedy Center. I’m really glad we had listened to the sound track a couple of times as it really helped to hear what was happening on the stage. The soundtrack includes virtually all the songs and dialogue of the entire play so following along wasn’t difficult as we had heard the songs previously. Some lines made more sense after reading the book, as well.
Business accomplished in VA, we turned around again and headed to Macomb. We were there for the better part of July leaving the first week of August. We had things to get done in California and needed to be moving along. Traveling along route 66 for most of the way was interesting – sites you see from various commercials and movies would flash by from time to time.
While we overnighted with friends in Chandler AZ, we received word that Janeen’s dad had passed. Yes, it was sad news but not unexpected.
California called us.. When we arrived, the goal was to complete the removal of all our household possessions from the home we had owned for 40 years. We kept only those items that mean something – artwork, pieces of solid wood furniture, kitchen items to set up a working kitchen, a few tools but nothing we couldn’t easily replace.
All our stuff in the moving van ready to go to storage
After a quick trip to Santa Barbara for the Carnesale wedding,
here we are having an afternoon refreshment in Santa Barbara
we got back in time to meet the movers to have all our stuff placed in storage. The house sold at the end of November – we are OFFICIALLY Houseless.
Jessie and Phil – our good buds in Pasadena.
Our trusty Mercedes Benz (MerCBlu) continued to provide us with our transport as we headed to Northern California and visited with friends of 50 years in the Bay Area prior to pointing it East ;back to Illinois for an October memorial service for Janeen’s dad. Our entire family was present which was a great comfort.
The Family at Harold’s Memorial
Continuing to Virginia, we once again got all our clothes clean, packed our bags and flew to Paris for the month of December.
Beth joined us for a tour at Mont Saint Michel – France
So this year (2018) started in Paris and will end in Paris. We are here with our entire family to enjoy being in the City of Lights with all that means. As for celebrating the New Year? Who knows. It’s only 3:30 on the 31st as I write this so the plans for this evening are not yet set.
This “gap year” that started so long ago (we started on this adventure in June of 2017) seems to be continuing. We return to Virginia in a week but come back to Southern France in March and have two different river cruises (Holland at TulipTime and The Remarkable Rhine) in April returning back stateside the middle of May.
From us to you – Bonne Année – The Lee Blog Continues in to the new year of 2019.
One of the joys of visiting in Paris for an extended time is the ability to go to the local markets to stock the apartment with food. The Paris Bastille Market comes alive with brightly colored stalls and enticing food displays. This Marché (Market) has been around for a very long time – taking over the Boulevard Richard Lenoir twice a week – Sundays and Thursdays.
Need a new purse? Maybe a backpack?Well, oysters, fresh and at least 6 different kinds!
There are three pathways through the market where vendors are engaging with shoppers and calling out their specials for the day. We spent the better part of several hours doing our shopping for the next several days but it’s hard to not be amazed with the stuff that are being sold. We arrived via the metro coming up at one end of the market – a booth of hats, gloves and lots of fresh shellfish. As we walked down the way there were booths of organic eggs, flowers, cheese, bread and piping hot ready to eat meals.
Ryan had a menu he was working on for our Christmas dinner – chicken, fresh vegetables, green apples and other ingredients to make our traditional Rice and Curry. We also picked up cheese, some marinated olives, some nuts and lots of other delicious treats.
Ryan and Janeen checking out a spot.Another big booth!Oranges, pineapples and fruit.Ryan picking out some sausages for later.
Paris, the City of Lights, and Museums! We have visited several museums during our various visits to this lovely city – The Louvre, Carnavalet Museum, Musée Rodin, Musée de Cluny and the Musée d’Orsay.
The view of the Musée d’Orsay.
All of these museums are wonderful and have a different focus or approach. Janeen particularly likes Carnavalet Museum as it represented the History of Paris through the years but unfortunately it is under renovation until 2020. A visit to the Louvre is certainly an enjoyable time but it is HUGE and crowded particularly when you want to see the Mona Lisa (I can pass on that, been there done that) and we decided a repeat visit to Musée d’Orsay would be on our list of places this trip.
The Musée d’Orsay is located on the Left Bank of the Seine and is housed in the former Gare d’Orsay – a Beaux-Arts railway station built between 1898 and 1900. The museum holds mainly French art dating from 1848 to 1914 including paintings, sculptures, furniture and photography.
The overlook from the end of the museum.
The museum houses the largest collection of impressionist and post-impressionist masterpieces in the world. Paintings by Monet, Manet, Degas, Renoir, Cézanne, Gauguin and Van Gogh provide a fantastic snapshot of this style of painting.
Pierre-Auguste Renoir- Bal du moulin de la Galette, 1876. Yes please, I’d like this on my wall.Pierre-Auguste Renoir- Bal du moulin de la Galette, 1876Édouard Manet, Olympia, 1863Claude Monet – La Rue Montogueil, Féte du 30 juin 1878. Now this could certainly be in my living room.
The original railway station, Gare d’Orsay, was constructed in time to be part of the 1900 Exposition and provided rail service throughout southwestern France until 1939. At that time, the short platforms had become unsuitable for the longer trains and the station stopped long distance service but continued with more suburban services. It has been used in several films over the years and was set to be demolished starting in 1970 but nothing happened and eventually the Directorate of the Museums of France had the idea of turning it into a museum that would bridge the gap between the Louvre and other museums of Paris. After much work and renovation the new museum was ready to receive art in 1986 where it has continued to provide a wonderful place to view art in Paris.
The interior of the building is huge with exhibits on several levels. After purchasing our tickets we entered on the main floor that overlooks the entire space. The main floor has early 19th century art: Conservative on the right, Realism on the left.
Pierre-Auguste Renoir- Bal du moulin de la Galette, 1876
Wandering among the main floor’s gallery of gleaming white statues is a joy. At the end of the first floor is a scale model of the Garnier Opéra House – this cross section lets you see the complexities of all the stage areas and gives you a good idea of the size of the place.
The front of the Opera house and cut away.The cut away of the Opera House.
Upstairs is where the impressionist and post-impressionist – well presented and amazing. I could certainly have one or more of these on the wall in my house!
Beth, Janeen and David outside the Musée d’Orsay
All in all David was in the d’Orsay about 4 hours while Janeen and Beth had previously spent a few hours it was not nearly enough time to really see everything – David missed all the furniture, photography and the special Picasso exhibits. Most likely we will back during this trip.
Paris, the City of Light is the world’s most visited capital. The city is proud of its many monuments from the iconic Eiffel Tower to the lofty Notre-Dame cathedral and the majestic Arc de Triomphe. No doubt this is Europe’s most enchanting capital!
Here is our list of the top 10 Things to Do and Must-Sees in Paris
Go to the top of the Eiffel Tower.
Take a riverboat cruise on the Seine
Enjoy a Hop-On Hop-Off bus ride around Paris
Paris by Night: Spend an exceptional evening at the Moulin Rouge.
Visit the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Paris.
Take a stroll around Montmartre and visit the Sacré Coeur Basilica.
Visit the Louve Museum
Enjoy a romantic dinner on the Seine River
Take a stroll in the heart of Paris
Visit the Garnier Opera House.
Yes, there are lots of historic neighborhoods to explore; bistros to sit and have a coffee and all those monuments are spectacular. However, there is another side of Paris that tourists don’t normally visit and they include outdoor markets (literally hundreds held every week) and a Flea Market that goes back over two centuries!
The most famous flea market in Paris is the one at Porte de Clignancourt, officially called Les Puces de Saint-Ouen, but known to everyone as Les Puces (The Fleas). It covers seven hectares and is the largest antique market in the world, receiving between 120,000 to 180,000 visitors each weekend. This market is about a 10-minute walk from our apartment.
One of the walkways of the Flea Market (not my picture wrong season of course) but typical view.
The history of the flea market dates back over two centuries, when rag and bone men scoured through the garbage of Paris at night to find valuable junk to sell on. They were called ‘crocheteurs’ or pickers. The romantic term was ‘pêcheurs de lune’ or ‘fishermen for the moon’. Many set up their temporary stalls within the Paris walls in sleazy neighborhoods, but because these districts were full of pickpockets and thieves, they were chased out of the city walls to Clignancourt, Montreuil, Vanves, etc. The largest of these flea markets is the one at Clignancourt, but the other two continue to this day.
Only if the decision was easy could you make up your mind on what to buy.
The rag and bone men gathered outside the walls of Paris at the Porte de Clignancourt and set up temporary stalls where they hawked their wares. Eventually, they formed groups of stalls to attract more customers. The more enterprising traders began to ‘trade up’ in terms of goods and eventually it became popular for Parisian collectors and antique dealers to shop there for bargains.
A bathtub of Bangles.
Today, when we arrived, it was almost overwhelming to take it all in. Up one walkway, turn down another and round and round we went. Sometime hitting the same spot before realizing we were walking in a circle. If we had been trying to furnish or decorate an apartment it would have been a snap!
Stacks of books, racks of cloths and toys spread around.Which one to buy!
There were stalls with rugs, lamps, furniture, nautical items, clocks, lamps and lots of decorative items. Other shops had stacks of books,
Plates, books, stuff everywhere you look.Little boxes – lot of little boxesJust a typical table sitting around with stuff on it.Tennis anyone?
piles and piles of them others with stuff you would have considered trash and tossed out to the garbage but here it was ready for someone to see a need and pick something up from the pile.
This reminded me of my neighbors garage – he NEVER throw anything away.
We left without buying anything but had enjoyable walkabout and will most likely wander back later during our visit. After all, if we bought something, where would we put it and gosh we don’t even have a home to put anything anyway. We might be back, who knows, and pick up the cow sofa.
After arriving in Marseille, we picked up our rental car and headed out. In hindsight, it would have been better to fly into Nice but I wasn’t thinking straight when I made the reservations. A little over 2 ½ hours after leaving the airport we found our way to the apartment.
Wandering among the main floor’s gallery of gleaming white statues is a joy. At the end of the first floor is a scale model of the Garnier Opéra House – this cross section lets you see the complexities of all the stage areas and gives you a good idea of the size of the place.
