Yesterday was just a recoup day – with a nice lunch thrown in for good behavior. Today we packed everything up and headed to Padua – about 40 minutes away from Venice but without all the water worlds apart. The main goal, of stopping in Padua, was to visit the Gardens.
Janeen at entrance sign
“The botanical garden of Padua is at the origin of all botanical gardens in the world and represents the cradle of science, scientific exchanges and understanding of the relationship between nature and culture. It has largely contributed to the advancement of many modern scientific disciplines , in particular botany, medicine, chemistry, ecology and pharmacy.” UNESCO
Because of Janeen’s [who is writing todays blog] Huntington Herb Garden workshops and Herbals introductions, this garden has been on her radar for at least two years.
An original layout of the garden – still very much the same today.
The Moorish” medicinal” which inspired the Italian drawings of Padua students under Francesco Bonafede, were taken from the actual plants grown in the university gardens starting in the 16th century.
Gate entrance to the Garden.
The garden had to be enclosed with walls to keep thieves out as the plants were so highly valued. There is still a Medicinals Quadrant to this day, but the garden expanded in the 18th and 19th centuries with the “collectors” of new world plants and flora. Many of these plants were “exchange” botanicals between students of the plant world. Janeen loved recognizing Huntington plants, and was in awe of the 1750 Ginkgo Biloba, a male specimen grafted with a female branch in 1850. The order and design of the garden is much like it was almost 200 years ago, with separate gardens outside the walls, planted around waterfalls, fountains and pools fed from underground springs.
Ginkgo Biloba 1750 Tree . An old maile specimen grafted with a female branch in the mid 1850’s.Ginkgo Biloba 1850 Tree Close upFountain one of many spring fed fountainsBusy Bees doing their stuffAutumn ColorA large and very old Persimmon ‘tree’Oriental Plane tree 1680 – Recognisable by its hollow trunk, which was probably caused by a lightening strike.Rock Garden with springAll of the planting beds were separated with stone borders – very old stone borders.
Janeen getting her Green On
On a less academic note, I [Janeen} needed green relief, having had my fill of roundabout directions and diesel fumes (even in watery Venice). David has found new Mercedes to be a friendly steed, even amongst the narrow streets with Italian drivers, bicyclists and pedestrians.
A view of the Prato Della Valle
Near the Botanical Gardens was our bonus of the day, Prato Della Valle, an elliptical square, the largest in all of Italy and one of the largest in Europe. A water feature divides its quadrants into green space, and statuary surround I’lsola Memmia. The bridge offers great photo ops.
Overlooking the circular canal at Prato Della Valle.
On the way out of the garden we watched workers placing stones to make a new roadbed – lots of labor involved.
This guy was hand placing the stones in sand or gravel base for the roadway. Lot of handwork for sure.
Today we split up – Jason and Terri went for a guided tour of Saint Mark’s Square and Janeen and I went to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. Peggy is related to all the other Guggenheims around – but didn’t have all the money they did. Her father didn’t have enough time to score big points in the family as he died on the Titanic leaving the family without the vast sums of money the other Guggenheims received. However, we should not feel sorry for Peggy, she did get over $3 million (about 35 million today) so she did OK. She started out collecting art first in Paris and London then in the US and finally in Venice where she remained for over 20 years.
This is the Museum from the water. The Palazzo was ‘unfinished’ as it was set to be 4 stories tall but never completed.
The Museum holds a portion of her collection in the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni where she lived and died. She had a fondness for collecting living artists and purchased works early on from a number of different artists– and married at least one (Max Ernst) having a couple of kids. When she died, the collection and the Palazzo were turned over to the Guggenheim Trust for management.
Raymond Duchamp-Villon 1914 – The HorsePablo Picasso 1928 The StudioMy Love Janeen taking a moment in the Museum to relax and reflect on all the wonderful art.Jackson Pollock – 1946 Croaking MovementJackson Pollock – 1942 – The Moon Woman. Janeen actually liked this one.Gino Severini 1914 – Sea DancerJean Metzinger 1912 – At the Cycle Race TrackMarino Marini 1948 – The Angel of the City. The phallus was removable and when ever the head of the Church came by it would be removed.Pablo Picasso, On the beach, February 12, 1937Jackson Pollock had his own room for his works.Alexander Calder- Silver Bed Head – In New York in the winter of 1945–46, Peggy Guggenheim commissioned Alexander Calder to make a silver bedhead. His design combines fish, insect, and plant motifs in an exuberant conflation of the worlds of sea and garden.I can just imagine living in this space.Alexander Calder – Earrings Calder created for PeggyAnother of the rooms in the Museum.This Caldar was lovely hanging in the entrance to the Museum.
In walking around the place you really get a feeling it was a home and the artwork was displayed for her pleasure. One entire room is filled with Jackson Pollock’s works – I don’t recall ever seen so many in one spot. Other works by Salvador Dali, Marc Chagail, Alexander Calder, Max Ernst, Pablo Picasso and others make up the collection.
We loved walking through this museumHere we are on the ‘dock’ at the Peggy Guggenheim Museum
Getting ready for our evening boat tour.
After we connected with Jason and Terri we had a quick bite to eat, a brief rest and got into a water taxi we had hired for a 2-hour water tour of Venice. Our driver was knowledgeable about all the various neighborhood buildings, the history of the area and how to get around. It was a wonderful tour, viewing at least five of the seven districts, including the Jewish Ghetto, Arsenal (still military), residential, rather than resort, canals, and views of church plazas and historic palaces.
The exterior of this place was redone – now they are looking for a new owner to do the interior.This Palazzo seems to have a dark history – owners seem to die mysteriously and therefore it hasn’t been renovated like so many have been
Two recently renovated Palacios are available for an under market eleven million euros, but the resident ghost and bad luck of previous owners, keeps the money away.
Our taxi driver was a born in Venice waterman, who had crewed at the America’s Cup in 1991, and liked San Diego a lot.
Yes, they enjoyed the ride.Janeen ALWAYS gets excited when she sees a garden.The exterior of this place was redone – now they are looking for a new owner to do the interior.Hands holding up the building – cute.The Customs House with the weathervane on the top. All goods had to be stored here for a month before they could be distributed. Part of the way to collect taxes.One of the Churches along the Grand Canal.The building on the right, with four windows at the top, was used for the James Bond Movie where it collapses into the Canal – of course that was with CGI.This is one of the main boat yards that is still making the Gondolia’s BoatsEach boat is hand made and the hull is NOT symmetrical – each side is different.Just another example of artwork along the Canal.This hotel had some artwork on the Grand Canal too.Here we are with St Marks and the Doge’s palace behind us on our Boating adventureTerri and Jason with St. Marks in the background.Jason and Terri seem to be enjoying our boat tour.Janeen was promised a Grand Canal Tour – and she says it was great!We really did have a great time.
Early Tuesday, David and Janeen walked the Virginia Lees to a neighborhood water taxi pick-up for the rapid ride to Marco Polo Airport, then had a Café in a neighborhood shop, and reverently walked through .
Basilica of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari. Just across the canal from our apartment.
St. Maria Gloriosa, to view the Michelangelo’s and impressive chapels.
The Main alter of the Basilica of FrariThe Monument to Canova inside the ChurchOne of the side altersTriptych painting along one side wall.
The church bells were our sound track for our stay at this beautiful VRBO.
Today, we wandered around a bit but were never lost. After a late start in the morning, we huffed it to the Rialto Bridge – which was CROWDED as to be expected being one of the main photo spots for the Grand Canal.
David and Janeen with the Rialto Bridge behind us.Terri and Jason with the Rialto Bridge behind them.Terri and Jason on the Rialto Bridge looking towards the Grand Canal.Janeen and Dvid on the Rialto Bridge.
We crossed over, taking a picture or two of course, and walked around to see the sights.
The CROWDS going done the side of the Rialto Bridge.
Getting hungry, we crossed back over the and went to a nice restaurant for a lovely lunch – clams, soup, lasagna, salad, steak, lamp shank…all really lovely.
The tile work on the exterior of this place was lovely.Lovely weathervane on the top of one of the buildings close to the entrance of the Grand Canal.
After lunch, we took the Vapareto along the Grand Canal to St. Marks Square for a walk around and to see where Jason and Terri are to meet up with their guide tomorrow.
Here we all are in front of Saint Marks having a lovely time.
We also walked past the Bridge of Sighs.
The Bridge of Sighs is an enclosed bridge made of white limestone, has windows with stone bars, passes over the Rio di Palazzo, and connects the New Prison to the interrogation rooms in the Doge’s Palace. Bridge was built in 1600. The view from the Bridge of Sighs was the last view of Venice that convicts saw before their imprisonment
Of course we stopped for a espresso,
Janeen had her melon gelato
Janeen had Melon gelato (something she has been looking for since she had it in Provence 10 years ago!) and ultimately back over the Rialto Bridge (for the 3rd time) heading back to our apartment and a coffee break and finally gelato stop along the way.
After checking out of our BW Travelers hotel, we went over to the Venice Marco Polo Airport and picked up Jason and Terri who arrived from Germany to spend a few days with us in Venice. After getting everyone in the NEW CAR we drove across
The only ‘land’ bridge to Venice. Parking is limited to the area at the end of this road by the train station.
causeway to the City Of Venice! Needless to say there are very few parking areas but I had reserved a spot for our stay.
Once we navigated the parking structure
Garage entrance – not sure if I go on the right or left???
Typical vaporetto – water bus – for use getting around Venice.
and purchased our vaporetto (water bus) tickets, we boarded Line #1 and motored down the Grand Canal to our stop S. Toma, where Greg, our host in the VRBO, was waiting.
On the water bus to our apartment
After a short walk, we got to the apartment – overlooking Campo dei Frari, near Gloriosa dei Frari church.
The apartment is on the second floor, the one with the red blind.
We are on the second floor of a nice building next to a “rio”canal. This apartment has two bedrooms, a large living room, dining room, 2,5 baths a nice kitchen and LOTS of windows for light.
This is the view from our living room.Here’s the living room from the windows.Nice large dining room – party anyone?Kitchen with all the required items and space too!The larger of the two bathroomsHere’s the smaller of the two bedrooms.Large bedroom with TV and big closets.
Nice and relaxed in Venice
We got settled in a few minutes and then headed out to Antiche Carampane, a restaurant Janeen and I had visited during our first visit (15 months ago) to share lunch.
Well, the restaurant did NOT disappoint!
Having our first glass of wine of the day.Best prawns so far on this trip!Grilled octopus – fantastic!Seafood PastaSea Bream – also tasty but to be honest not as good as the Sea Bass.Sea Bass – really tastyHazel nuts with chocolate covered ice creamPumpkin TiramisuCafé Correcto – Espresso and Grappa – nice after a large meal.
Having a wonderful time!
A happy group after a wonderful lunch.Walking back to the apartment.
Jason and Terri were a little tired after a very long day so they took a nap – and then they went out for pizza while Janeen and I stayed home. Tomorrow, even if it is calling for some rain, we will venture out and do some exploring and actually take more pictures!