Category: Our Continuing Journey

Several years ago, during the pandemic, I signed up for a Smithsonian presentation about Renaissance art presented by Elaine Ruffolo.  She has been teaching art history in Florence, Italy since 1990 and is a popular instructor for students and adults alike. Her special interests included the history of patronage and the economy of Italian Renaissance city-states.  As a result of that presentation, we started watching her weekly presentations (via zoom) on many subjects related to the Renaissance history.  About a year ago, she let it be known that she would be doing a tour in conjunction with Ross King called “In the Footsteps of Michelangelo and Caravaggio”.  Ross had presented several programs during the last four years and I had read a number of his books (Brunelleschi’s Dome: The Story of the Great Cathedral in Florence, Michelangelo and the Pope’s Ceiling, The Bookseller of Florence and several others – all of which fit right in with the program description.) and the schedule for this journey fit right in with our plans to be in Europe so we signed up. 

In preparation of this journey, we read a couple of books about Michelangelo and Caravaggio and thus made sure we viewed a couple of Caravaggio’s paintings in the Co-Cathedral on Malta at the start of this Adventure.  After our Mediterranean Adventure ended on the Oceania Cruise, we flew to Florence and started our Italian Adventure.

We arrived in Florence several days prior to the start of the Michelangelo and Caravaggio event so we had a couple of days to relax and re-explore the city.  We had been here 20 some years ago so we had some idea of where we were and what to expect.  However, our hotel, the Hotel Bunelleschi was a bunch of steps up from the place we stayed previously and very close to the main attractions.

While the previous post (Medici Villas) wasn’t related to the Journey we are now undertaking, it was a tease of wonders to begin.  It did, however, give us a beautiful time at two Villas and allowed us to explore some of the areas of the city.  Additionally, it allowed time for Janeen to get her hair done and to wander around the City.  Florence is a BEAUTIFUL place and has been around for a VERY long time.  

Florence was founded as a Roman military colony about the 1st century BCE, and during its long history it has been a republic, a seat of the duchy of Tuscany, and a capital (1865–70) of Italy.  Along the way it was the starting point of the Renaissance and fostered any number of artists, sculptures and architects.  

A key starting point is the Starting iconic Santa Maria del Fiore, affectionately known as Il Duomo. This massive cathedral had four different architects working on it across multiple time periods. It was completed by 1436 with the help of Filippo Brunelleschi, who engineered the dome, bringing the total time for completion to 140 years.  The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore is the fourth largest cathedral in the world, after St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, St. Paul’s in London and Milan’s Duomo. Not only is it one of the largest cathedrals in the world, but it’s also one of the largest cathedrals in all of Christianity. 

Comprised of three buildings, the complex includes the Piazza del Duomo, the Baptistery and Giotto’s Campanile. All of these are amazing buildings with tons of history.

We toured the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo which is the Museum of the Works of the Cathedral.  Inside the museum there are the original Baptistery doors, a number of statues and a whole lot of history.  (We did this on our own but I came back with the “group” once tour officially started.)

In addition to walking around the City, we had a lovely lunch at a two star Michelin restaurant, Santa Elisabetta which is located in the Hotel.  We have had a number of Michelin star meals and this was not a disappointment.  It was like we had a private dinner as there was only one other couple in this very small restaurant (six tables).  

We had a five-course meal – Traces of Innovation, all from the sea.  About half way through the meal we were able to meet the Chef who manages several locations!  Truly an enjoyable meal.

Now we were ready for the rest of the group to gather and officially start the adventure.

Over the last 4 or 5 years, I have heard and learned a great about The House of Medici.  This Italian banking family and political dynasty first consolidated power in the Republic of Florence under Cosimo de’ Medici and his son Lorenzo “the Magnificent” during the first half of the 15th century. The family originated in the Mugello region of Tuscany, and prospered gradually in trade until it was able to fund the Medici Bank. This bank was the largest in Europe in the 1400s and facilitated the Medicis’ rise to political power in Florence, although they officially remained citizens rather than monarchs until the 16th century.

In 1532, the family acquired the hereditary title Duke of Florence. In 1569, the duchy was elevated to the Grand Duchy of Tuscany after territorial expansion. The Medici ruled the Grand Duchy from its inception under the builder Cosimo I until 1737, with the death of Gian Gastone de’ Medici. 

During their rise to power and wealth, they acquired property throughout the region.  The first holding outside the security of Florence was Villa Medici in Fiesole.  This was the first example where the idea of ​​a country residence breaks away from the traditional concept of a fortress and castle, evolving into an independent form.

The Medici acquired the land and existing buildings in the mid 1400’s and developed a new style of Country Villa.  The Villa’s relationship with the landscape through the new use of loggias and terraces opens the doors to future Renaissance Villas.  This was the first of two Medici Villas we recently visited.  It is currently privately owned, but she allows access to the grounds.

The second villa was Petraia – The Villa stands with its unmistakable tower in a dominant position on the slopes of Monte Morello sloping down towards the plain with a splendid view of Florence.

The building was developed around the existing fifteenth-century central tower and its main facade overlooks the splendid Italian garden, built on three levels, or terraces, which support the steep nature of the land.

The interiors have been preserved from the Medici period especially the fresco decorations. The Villa, in fact, looks today as it was in the time of the Savoy, between the second half of the nineteenth century.  

All the fresco’s were done during the time the Medici lived in the building – thus the mid 1500s or so. These are all of the center courtyard which was uncovered during the time they lived there.

Eventually owned by King Vittorio Emanuele III, he ceded it to the State of Italy in 1919.  Thanks to an inventory of the Villa, taken at the time of transfer, it was possible to reconstruct the nineteenth-nineteenth-century appearance of the residence where there are still furnishings, tapestries, works of art and furniture that were part of the daily life of Vittorio Emanuele II.

Owned and maintained by the Italian State, we had the place to ourselves and the guide was able to walk along with us and answer questions that were raised.  

It was fascinating to view all the fresco that cover the entire ground floor walls throughout the Villa.  It is beyond understanding how the artist was able to design and execute the number of fresco that were done.  The upper floors of the Villa all represent the time when King Vittorio Emanuele III was in residence.

Both Villas are outside of Florence but were an easy hour or two ride via horse and carriage during the Medici time period and thus were frequently used.  It was really a treat to see these two properties once owned and occupied by the Medici family.  There are still a bunch more worthy of visiting so I guess we will have to come back.

There are a LOT more adventures planned over the next several weeks – however, reporting may not be as timely as they have been over the past month. So, keep an eye out for those notifications you receive in your email. Don’t forget to leave a comment!