Category: Our Continuing Journey

After our visit to Newport, we hit the road to find Fall Colors!  Our first stop was Brattleboro Vermont which was just an overnight spot and a chance to relax for a few minutes.  The following morning, after breakfast, we boarded the coach and headed out to try and find some Fall Color with the goal of reaching Weston VT and the Vermont Country Store.  Along the way we made a couple of stops, one at Starbucks with a lovely park next to the parking lot.  While not everyone on the coach rushed into Starbucks, it was clear the majority were interested in a hot beverage.

The Ashuelot River Park, in Keene Vermont, was a lovely place to wander around for a few minutes while finishing my coffee.  

Back on the bus we headed towards the Vermont Country Store. We did stop for some pictures.

We made a stop along the way to take pictures of the fall colors.

Many years ago, when we lived in Cambridge Massachusetts, Janeen worked at an importer of wooden ware – H.A. Mack and Company.  The primary focus was the import of wooden ware such as spoons, bowls and lots of other kitchen gadgets.  One of the places they sold to was the Vermont Country Store!  So we have known about this place for many years – back when the original owner, Vrest Orton. ran the place with his wife Mildred.  Since that time, we have received their catalogue every so often and even ordered a thing or two over the years.  However, we have never visited the store even though we passed through the area from time to time when we lived in Cambridge.

Started in 1946, the Vermont Country Store in the village of Weston was inspired by childhood memories of his father’s general store in North Calais, Vermont.  The Weston store became the first restored rural general store in the nation.  Today the place is owned and operated by his son and grandsons – together they are 7^th and 8^th generation Vermonters. They still adhere to the old-fashion values set by their father and take pride in being the Purveyors of the Practical and Hard-to-Find.  When we have looked for something obscure like Necco Wafers for use on gingerbread houses we reach out to them for sure. When Janeen asked for licorice Scottie Dogs, they rushed them up from in back.

Once in the store, it’s clear there is a LOT to choose from.  Our stop was to be an hour or so but it could have lasted all day with all the nooks and crannies there were to discover.  

I thought we did pretty good getting out only spending $130!

Back on the bus we headed to Woodstock Vermont for a little sight-seeing and lunch.   Woodstock is a small town with historic buildings surrounding the central square and considered to be one of the most beautiful little towns in Vermont.  Being that it was a beautiful day, and the color was beginning to decorate all the trees, the place was busy to say the least.  We finally found a place that had only a 30-minute wait for lunch and enjoyed a nice sandwich on the patio.  

When we got back to the bus, we discovered a problem – the rear end of the bus was open and the driver was checking the motor. It seems the fan belt had broken and we weren’t going anywhere for a while!  

After further investigation, Karim (the driver) found a belt on board another bus, but then there was still the problem of getting it installed.  All he had in the way of tools was a butter knife and a broom handle.

As we were stranded in Woodstock for a while, and we were parked next to the Woodstock Inn & Resort, many of our group went inside for adult beverages and to have a nice place to sit.  The Inn was very generous to us given our predicament.   

Members of our group enjoying the hospitality of the Woodstock Inn

Terry (our HOA Travel Club person) jumped in and even went so far as to ask the Manager if we might borrow some tools to repair the bus!    After a couple of hours, with help from mechanic passengers and borrowed tools, hungry tourists were ready to head to our hotel. Our driver realized he could not get us to the hotel buffet in a timely manner, so negotiated with the boss for a pizza & beer stop en route to the hotel.

We all enjoyed some pizza and beer along the way to our hotel for the evening.

Now off to our hotel where we are staying for two nights!

For a number of years, I have wanted to attend the Newport Jazz and Music Festival but alas I have not been able to put it on my schedule.  While I have known Newport Rhode Island is much more than a just a music venue, I really hadn’t thought about it much.  OK, I remember the America’s Cup Race was held there for many years (until the Cup was lost to Australia in 1983) but beyond that I didn’t have a clue about the history of the place.

Our adventure today was to visit Newport – a drive around with a local guide and time to tour The Breakers.  Founded in 1639 Newport was one of the most import port cities in the North American Colonies during the 18^th century.  Commerce included the importation and sale of enslaved persons as well as manufactures of whale-oil candles, rum and fine furniture.  The Revolutionary War didn’t help the place much and the entire area declined after the war.  In the mid 1800’s things began to improve as it become a fashionable summer resort favored for its temperate oceanside climate.

During the late 1800’s – The Gilded Age – Newport gained prominence as leaders of finance and industry (the 1 percenters of the time) from New York and elsewhere built ever larger ‘summer cottages’ and enjoyed a glittering social life of dinners, sports and lots and lots of parties.  By the turn of the century, these cottages included European-inspired places with servants to support them during the 8 to 10-week summer ‘season’.

The Vanderbilt family seemed to particularly like Newport building several ‘cottages’ include The Marble House (1982) and Breakers(1895).  Others included a Nevada silver heiress, Theresa Fair Oelrichs who built Rosecliff in 1902 .  Our focus for our tour was on The Breakers – which is considered the grandest of Newport’s summer “cottages” and a symbol of the Vanderbilt family’s social and financial pre-eminence in the Gilded Age.

The Grand Staircase and a view of the area from the balcony.

However, prior to getting to the Breakers we did drive around the city and in particular the spot where the Jazz and Music Festival is held.  Once we finished our couch tour, we were dropped off at the Breakers to allow us to explore this property.

The Breakers was built between 1893 and 1895 as a summer residence for Cornelius Vanderbilt II.  He purchased the property for $450,000 and he commissioned the creation of the ‘cottage’. This 70-room mansion, with a gross area of 138,300 square feet and 62,482 square feet of living area on five floors, and was designed by Richard Morris Hunt in the Renaissance Revival style; the interior decor was by Jules Allard and Sons and Ogden Codman Jr.

Concerned that the prior house, on the property, had been destroyed by fire, Vanderbilt insisted that the building be made as fireproof as possible, resulting in a structure composed of masonry and steel trusses, with no wooden parts. He even required that the boiler be located away from the house in an underground space below the front lawn.

The interior was created using marble imported from Italy and Africa and rare woods and mosaics from countries around the world.  The project was completed in 1892.  When completed, it was the largest, most opulent house in Newport area.  Upon his death, the property went his wife who outlived him by 35 years whereupon she left it to her youngest daughter Countess Gladys Széchenyi.

In 1948, Gladys leased the high-maintenance property to The Preservation Society of Newport County for $1 per year.  It is now the most-visited attraction in Rhode Island, with approximately 450,000 visitors annually as of 2017.

The recent HBO series – The Gilded Age – filmed a portion of their program in The Breakers.

After we finished our tour of the property, we were the last ones on the bus, we headed out to Vermont where we might actually see some fall color!

While we had lived in New England for several years, we never made it to Martha’s Vineyard.  Martha’s Vineyard sits in the Atlantic just south of Cape Cod and has been a longtime New England summer colony and vacation spot.  For our adventure, today, we took the ferry from Woods Hole to Edgartown on the Island.  We departed by Ferry from Woods Hole.

Over the years, Martha’s Vineyard has been the vacation home of any number of the ‘rich and famous’ including Barack Obama (where his daughter worked as a hostess at one of the restaurant over the summer), Carly Simon, James Taylor, Meg Ryan, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Bill Clinton and many more have called Martha’s Vineyard home. However, during our visit we didn’t see anyone of note. 

Once we arrived, a local guide joined out group to talk about the Island and give insights into its history.

The guide, a 15^th generation resident of the island, certainly had a lot of stories but not much real history was shared. While her stories were “entertaining” she spent way too much time talking about what here grandfather told her and not nearly enough time about the general history of the Island.  

However, it was a pleasant day with stops along the way.

After our adventure around the island, we were brought back to Edgartown for lunch and a bit of free time. When it was time to return to the ferry, our bus driver had to take us to another docking site since Oak Bluffs was closed due to wind & waves. The ferry was loaded with global workers(construction workers from Brazil) returning to Falmouth on the Cape, as well as tourists and visitors.

Some of the shopping areas of Edgartown

Once we were all back on the coach, we made our way back to the ferry for our return trip to Woods Hole and our hotel.

No trip to New England can be complete without having Lobster!  That evening’s dinner, which was booked as a beach lobster bake at the hotel, was in fact that opportunity.  Moving the feast inside meant food other than lobster arrived more quickly, but all who savored sweet lobster meat were satisfied.