Notre Dame de Paris

Our first trip to Europe was in the summer of 2004.  This included a couple of days in Paris.  Unfortunately, not knowing anything about France, we ending our visit around Bastille Day mid-July where it was usually HOT and extremely busy with many places closing to join in the celebration.  We did visit many of the important sites including getting to Notre-Dame de Paris.  However, on this visit, we didn’t go inside.  

These two pictures were taken during a visit in December 2018. Really difficult to see all the interior of the Cathedral.

Several years later we returned to Paris and finally went inside this monumental Cathedral.  On our return visits we always made a point of going inside and admiring the beauty of the place including a couple years, when we were in Paris for Christmas.  The interior always struck us as filled with art, beautiful stained- glass windows, but also quite dark.  Maybe it was the time of day we visited or the lack of sun coming into the interior, but the overall impression I had was it was dark.

In the Spring of 2019, we were traveling in Europe, first in the south of France and then into the Amsterdam to join a cruise ending in Switzerland, eventually finding our way back to Paris.  While we were traveling in Southern France, we learned of the fire at Notre-Dame de Paris.  

What ever caused the fire, it significantly damaged the Cathedral. The picture on the right highlights how much of the roof was destroyed.

We, along with all those we were in contact with, found it hard to believe that this centuries old Cathedral could be in ruins or damaged beyond repair.   In May, heading towards Giverny and Monet’s Garden we did have a moment to stand and look at the Cathedral with the protective fencing around it and the gaping hole in the roof.

A massive amount of scaffolding encasing the Cathedral

The main structure was intact; firefighters had saved the façade, towers, walls, buttresses, and stained-glass windows. The stone vaulting that forms the ceiling of the cathedral had several holes but was otherwise intact.  The Great Organ, which has over 8,000 pipes and was built by François Thierry in the 18th century was also saved but damaged by water.  Because of the renovation, that had been underway, the copper statues on the spire had been removed before the fire.  About 500 firefighters helped to battle the fire, President Emmanuel Macron said. 

Notre-Dame de Paris is a medieval Catholic cathedral on the Île de la Cité (an island in the River Seine), and has been a major part of the City since it was consecrated in the late 1100’s.  It has been considered one of the finest examples of French Gothic architecture. Several attributes set it apart from the earlierRomanesque style, including its pioneering use of the rib vault and flying buttress, its enormous and colorfulrose windows, and the naturalism and abundance of its sculptural decoration.  Notre-Dame is also exceptional for its three pipe organs (one historic) and its immense church bells.

 General Jean-Louis Georgelin, a French army officer, was chosen to head the restoration.  He ran the restoration with military precision – keeping the focus on the work and not allowing outside pressures (The Press was very difficult) to gum up the works.

Our first view of the interior were stunning

The official reopening on December 7 drew unprecedented international attention, with President Emmanuel Macron hosting presidents from 40 nations to celebrate this historic milestone. This extraordinary diplomatic assembly demonstrated the cathedral’s significance not just as a French monument, but as a symbol of global cultural heritage and international cooperation.

December 8 marked a profound spiritual milestone as archbishops, from across France and beyond, gathered for the first Mass in the restored cathedral.   On December 9, 2024, the Cathedral reopened to the public and we were some of the very lucky ones to have entrance to the Cathedral that day.  We arrived at our appointed time of 3:45, and after waiting in line for a bit, were allowed into the Cathedral.

The statuary, particularly the Pieta, behind the Alter has been marvelously cleaned – and a new contemporary alter installed.

First impression?  Light – light everywhere.  The interior of the place had been dramatically cleaned.  Remember, the place had not had a ‘bath’ for centuries and the candle smoke and other contaminates had darkened the interior dramatically.  

The ancient relic that many Christians revere as Jesus Christ’s “Crown of Thorns” — a circular band of branches encased in a gilded golden tube.

I am sorry I didn’t get all the names for the various chapels – they had all been throughly cleaned and were looking fantastic.

“The color of the restored interior will be “a shock” to some returning visitors, observed General Jean-Louis Georgelin, the French army officer heading the restoration.”  The interior elevations regained their original color, since the chapels and side aisles were very dirty. Of course, it is not a white color. The stone has a blonde color, and the architects are very attentive to obtaining a patina which respects the centuries. Although General Georgelin did not live to see the opening, he saw the dramatic results of his working groups effort.

For the festive season, an exceptional Neapolitan nativity scene takes up residence in Notre-Dame de Paris. An 18th-century masterpiece, it unveils 150 santons showcasing Italian craftsmanship and Christmas traditions.

We also experienced the power of the restored organ as we stayed for vespers.

For anyone who has ever visited Notre-Dame de Paris, I encourage you to return and see how wonderful it now looks.  

We were able to stay inside and walk around as long as we liked.  During our visit, a Vespers Service was held and as we were leaving a full Mass was getting started.  We were so pleased to have had the opportunity to see the Cathedral. 

Claude Monet, Rouen Cathedral and a Christmas Market

Several years ago, I read Mad Enchantment: Claude Monet and the Painting of the Water Lilies by Ross King.  While this was really a focus on the water-lilies he painted, it did make me aware of Monet in a much different way and in particular his impressionist paintings of the Cathedral of Rouen.  Over the course of several years, Monet painted more then 30 different versions of the Cathedral during different times of day and periods of the year.  When Monet painted all of these impressions the Cathedral of Rouen was the tallest building in the world.  Unfortunately, I have no recollection of seeing any of the ones he did, at least one of which is in the National Gallery of Art in DC, but I did get to see the actual Cathedral. Our sunny day made the façade shine.

Rouen Cathedral is famous for its three towers, each in a different style. The cathedral, built and rebuilt over a period of more than eight hundred years, has features from Early Gothic to late Flamboyant and Renaissance architecture.  These towers are also famous for being the tallest in France with its 19th-century spire rising to just under 500 feet! 

The cathedral has a fine collection of stained glass from the 13th to the 20th century.

The stained-glass windows were installed progressively during the cathedral’s construction. One of the oldest examples is the booksellers’ rose in the north transept. 

A quite interesting site is the staircase that leads to the Cathedral Library – This late Gothic stair case was built, under the direction of archbishop William d’Estouteville, by Guillaume Pontis in 1480. The stairs used to lead to the Cathedral library which was situated just above the Flamboyant Gothic arched door. In 1788 another story was built above the library to hold the Cathedral records and the upper flights of stairs were added then.

However lovely the Cathedral is, we have been in a number of different ones over the last couple of months and we really wanted to spend some time in the Christmas Market so we didn’t tour the inside fully.

The Rouen Christmas market did not disappoint.  There were a number of stalls and lots of holiday decorations. The stall with UGG- like slippers and silk scarves also provided gifts and a story. The center city also provided a fine Vietnamese meal for Beth, David, Ryan, Christopher, and Janeen before heading to the car.

After the Market, as we headed back to our car, we passed under Gros-Horloge a 14th century astronomical clock. The clock is installed in a Renaissance arch crossing the Rue du Gros-Horloge. The mechanism is one of the oldest in France, the movement having been made in 1389.  

A fascinating piece of history.

Have you enjoyed our adventures? Please leave a comment and let us know!

Norte-Dame de Chartres

Once we left the river cruise, we traveled by train to Livarot France – where our son has a ‘gite’ (holiday home) and is developing a B&B operation.  (https://www.ledouetfleury.fr/en) Beth, our friend from Sonoma, joined us for several days.  She had never been to this part of France before and was anxious to see where our son and his husband, Christopher, lived.  Livarot is about 3 hours northwest of Paris.

Livarot-Pays-d’Auge, as it is officially known, is a commune in the department of Calvados and became the central municipality of the 22 former communes in January 2016.  With a population of just over 6,200 it is known for cheese – a major cheese plant is in the town producing the three main cheeses of Normandy – Livarot Cheese, Normandy Camembert and Pont-l’Eveque.  A free tour of the factory is available most days and Beth along with Christopher took the tour (I went a week or so later after Beth had left).  Livarot also has a large apple processing plant turning apples into juice and apple sauce.

After settling in for the evening, we gathered our resources and planned our next trip – to Norte-Dame de Chartres.  

The construction Chartres Cathedral started about 20 years after the more famous Cathedral in Paris (one of the other Norte-Dame Cathedrals).  Chartres is one of the best-known and most influential examples of High Gothic and Classic Gothic architecture,

It stands on a Romanesque basements, while its north spire is more recent (1507–1513) and is built in the more ornate flamboyant style.  Long renowned as “one of the most beautiful and historically significant cathedrals in all of Europe,” it was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1979, which called it “the high point of French Gothic art” and a “masterpiece”.


The Cathedral is well-preserved and well-restored: the majority of the original stained-glass windows survive intact, while the architecture has seen only minor changes since the early 13th century. The cobalt blue of the windows makes Chartres unique. The building’s exterior is dominated by heavy flying buttresses which allowed the architects to increase the window size significantly, while the west end is dominated by two contrasting spires – a 349 ft plain pyramid completed around 1160 and a 377 ft early 16th-century Flamboyant spire on top of an older tower. Equally notable are the three great façades, each adorned with hundreds of sculpted figures illustrating key theological themes and narratives.

Flying-buttress-supporting-the-upper-walls-and-counterbalancing-the-outward-thrust-of-the-vaulted-ceiling-allowing-thin-walls-and-greater-space-for-windows

One of the more interesting aspects of the Cathedral, which makes it stand out from others, is that it has a medieval labyrinth dating from the early 13th century on the floor.  The labyrinth is a stone inlay with only one path whereas a maze has a choice of paths.  

This labyrinth has 11 concentric circles and rounded sides with twists and turns to lead to the center and then back out and symbolizes the journey of Christ’s salvation. 

The entire area around the Cathedral is under construction making the area a pedestrian area only with paving stones replacing the roadway.  Unlike the other cathedrals we have visited during this adventure, there was NOT a Christmas Market happening which was nice.  

A simple nativity scene created inside the Cathedral.

There is extensive restoration happening both on the  exterior and interior of the building so there was scaffolding making it more difficult to see some of the features of the building.  Once inside, we picked up the audio guide and began our tour – it was one of the best audio tours I think we have had!  It described the Cathedral in detail and highlighted various areas.  

After completing our tour, we went across the ‘square’ and had a lovely lunch prior to heading back to Livarot.

Strasbourg – End of Christmas Market Cruise

We have left Germany and are now in France!

We have been to Strasbourg several times but never in the winter months.  We had thought about taking the train from Paris during December, several years ago, to see the Christmas Market but never made it happen.  

The historic town with its cobbled lanes, half-timbered homes, giant stork nests, and impossible-to-resist pastry shops are hard to pass up for sure.  Strasbourg is a city with deep connections to both France and Germany having been ruled by both countries over the centuries.  Enchanting half-timbered houses line the canals of Petite France, one of the oldest districts, and the medieval cathedral—a religious institution has stood in its spot for 3,000 years—is extraordinary. 

Strasbourg calls itself the Capital of Christmas and really goes all out for the holidays. The Christmas tree on Place Kléber towers over hundreds of stalls—but it’s only one part of the market, which spreads through 10 neighboring locations, all of them both historic and wonderfully decorated. We focused our attention to the market around the Cathedral.

After a short coach ride, we walked the merry streets to get to the Cathedral and its adjacent Market.  

Once we made it to the Cathedral, I checked on a restaurant we had visited in the past that had a major focus on cheese – La Cloche à Fromage.  Unfortunately, it was fully booked for lunch so we ended up in a very nice place a few doors down.  Louisa, the Cruise Director, joined us for lunch and it was a very nice time allowing us all to get to know each other better.

Theresa, Beth, Louisa add David enjoying an Alsatian Lunch.

After lunch, we headed out to look over more of the market.

This Christmas Market River Cruise has been quite an adventure.  While there is one more stop, Basel, it’s not likely we will visit its market with all the other things that are happening.  I was very pleased to have Barbara take time out of her schedule to visit the Ship.  I had met Barbara a couple of years ago on our first UniWorld Mystery Cruise and have delighted to take over 200 plus selfies with her since that time.  

Our group of ‘Framily’ consisted of family and new friends and it was an enjoyable experience.  Who knows, maybe we will reconnect on a future adventure.  Here are a few pictures of our adventure that didn’t make the original posting.

Did I mention that Bill liked a lot of bread?

Some group shots of Tiyeme, Michael, Chris, Bill and Theresa, Terri and Jason

Until Next time!  Merry Christmas and a very Happy New Year.  

Family and Friends enjoying a wonderful adventure

This may end our Christmas Market Cruise, but we are heading out to Normandy with Beth to be with our son Ryan and his husband Chris for the next couple of weeks and then to Wiesbaden to be with our entire family for Christmas.  There are lots of adventures yet to come so stay tuned.

Your comments are always appreciated.  

Baden-Baden our final German Christmas Market

While many of our group were out tasting vinegar, we headed into Baden-Baden for a brief walking tour and a visit to the Christmas Market.  Several years ago, we had been to Baden-Baden but on a Sunday when most places were closed – but given the Market, shopping wasn’t on our list of activities.   Having two young girls with us necessitated a visit to the ‘ride area’ of the Market where they could enjoy a couple of whirls around the merry-go-round and the Ferris wheel. 

This was a smaller market then others we had visited but still had all the traditional items – many booths selling ornaments, trinkets, jewelry, clothing and other items plus of course food and Glühein with the required souvenir mug.  

Did I mention our ‘group’ collected some mugs?

Of course, we had to have a snack before heading back to the ship.

After visiting various booths and picking up a few things we made our way back to the bus to have some relaxing time on the ship.

Did I mention the ship had a pool? Our Grands really enjoyed it.

That evening was a Celebration on board with lots of special treats and music.

The Crew sang Christmas songs for us in the Lounge

Baden-Baden was our last port of call in Germany. Tomorrow we head to France!

A Vinegar Tasting with Guest Blogger – Theresa Bodnar…

While Janeen and I were going to Baden-Baden with the grandgirls, a large contingent of our group headed off to a vinegar tasting.  We had done this tasting some years ago and had urged our ‘group’ to experience this unique opportunity. So,  I reached out to Theresa Bodnar to write up something about their experiences…thus a ‘guest’ blogger.

Guten Tag!  It is truly an honor to be a guest blogger for loverofwine and to join David and Janeen and their family (my “framily” – ie, friends that become family) on this Christmas Market cruise with Uniworld along the Rhine River!  David has frequently entertained me with tales of all of his adventures with this cruise line that I’ve gotten to revisit by re-reading his historical blogs – – – so when he asked me to write about my delightful vinegar tasting experience, I couldn’t resist!

Guest Blogger, Theresa Bodnar all robed up!

So it started like this – David “STRONGLY URGED” members of our party to select the Weinessinggut Doktorenhof (Wine Vinegar Doktorenhof) vinegar tour and tasting experience while docked in the port of Gersheim, Germany.  He and Janeen had taken the tour several years prior and were blown away by the experience – and when David and Janeen recommend something so highly, you know it’s worth it!

Honestly, I was a bit skeptical at first – vinegar?  I could tolerate it on fries and I had attempted to drink a small amount of apple cider vinegar down one time because someone had told me it had amazing health benefits – and I almost choked.  BUT – I trusted David’s advice and I love trying new experiences, especially with great friends, so we all said, “Let’s do it”. 

 Ultimately, I’m so happy I took David’s advice because it was an absolutely AMAZING experience and the vinegar was actually quite tasty – so much so, that I bought 5 bottles to take home!

When we arrived to Weinessinggut Doktorenhof, our tour guide took us back to a special room in the home where we each selected a monastic looking robe to wear during the tour.  I felt not only like I was being taken back in time but also like I was about to embark on a very special, secret society adventure.

Jason and Terri really go into the whole ‘robe’ thing…

Once appropriately transformed we were taken down to the cellars where the guide spoke in detail about the manufacturing process.  Basically you start off with a batch of wine and you spoil it using a “mother” starter. This turns the wine into vinegar.  You then infuse it with a different flavor or combination of flavors ranging from wild cherries, apricots, vanilla beans, fig, wild oranges, lavender and any number of other things to give it an overall flavor or aroma. 

Herbs are also used as part of the blending and aging process. Part of the tour included entering a room full of herbs used in the blending process.

The entire process is long and involved.  Vinegars can age anywhere from 3-10 years. The aging process is to fully infuse the herbs into the vinegar and create more complex vinegar. This whole manufacturing process has been handed down from generation to generation.

After the tour, we were then brought to the tasting room for a special tasting of 5 select vinegars. 

Although they make over 50 different blends, we tasted only five –Angels Kissing the Night, Tears of Cleopatra, Balsam of St. Damian, Ficus – the Fig, and Giacomo Casanova. Each vinegar can serve as an apertif and/or has its own health benefits:

Ø  Angels Kissing in the Night –try it as an apertif as an addition to champagne or with cheese or ice cream!

Ø  Tears of Cleopatra –use as an apertif with oyster, mushrooms, dates, gigs, and spicy cheeses!

Ø  Baslam of St. Damian – enhances healthy breathing and wellness

Ø  Fiscus- the Fig – sinfully delicious with fish, fruit, and cheese

Ø  Giacomo Casanova – stimulating apertif that complements fine pastries, pasta, cheese, and seafood

Before each tasting, our tour guide gave a short description of the vinegar and some  blending and/or pairing suggestions (champagne and Angels Kissing the Night for example).   Each vinegar was then paired with a special treat such as a chocolate or nut.  My favorite part was drinking out of the fancy, skinny flute in hand blown glass which I just had to purchase after the tour as well as mini bottles of each of the samples tasted!   It was absolutely DELICIOUS!  

I continue to have a sip of vinegar each day from one of the bottles for the health benefits😊

Probst!

Koblenz, Castles and Rudesheim

Another day and another Christmas Market or two!  Today we had docked in Koblenz, best known along the Rhine as a shopping destination.  The Christmas market was centered around the Church (big surprise there) and had similar stalls as we had seen in other locations. 

 It was a lovely day and a short walking tour took us into town to discover quaint old-world shops as well as a modern shopping center.  

Our time in Koblenz was short as we had to be back on the ship for an afternoon sailing with commentary about the various castles and sites we saw as we travelled along.  UniWorld has a separate sailing called “Castles along the Rhine” and it was clear during our afternoon sailing why this was the case.  

Pfalzgrafenstein Castle is a toll castle situated on Falkenau island in the Rhine River, adjacent to Kaub, Germany. Also known as “the Pfalz”, Pfalzgrafenstein Castle has never been destroyed since being established in 1326/27. The area is part of the Rhine Gorge and we sailed right past this. Such castles were usually placed at strategic locations and were manned by armed guards.

At one point, Jason said “Did you know there are more castles in Germany then MacDonald’s in the USA?”  I was not convinced and of course had to ‘google’ it and yup, once again he was correct.  

There are 25,000 castles in Germany and 13,562 MacDonalds!  However, France has almost double the castles as Germany with 45,000!

Once we docked in Rudesheim we ventured off the shop to visit one more Christmas Market returning for a late evening dinner.

A special desert showing all our ports of call!

Danna, Debra, Sara, Bill, Jason, Chris, Ryan, Tiyeme, Michael

Sara, Terri, Theresa, Beth, Emma

MaryAnn, Trebor, David, Katie, Janeen

We had a lovely group of people for the entire adventure!

Cologne Again!

The magic of our first day at the Christmas Market continued the following day with a more detailed adventure into Cologne.  Along the way, we saw these really interesting buildings along the riverfront – The Kranhaus (“crane house”) three 17-story buildings, collectively Kranhäuser.

Their shape, an upside-down “L”, is reminiscent of the harbor cranes that were used to load cargo to and from ships, two of which were left standing as monuments when the harbor was redesigned as a residential and commercial quarter in the early 2000s.   Not sure I would want to live in one of these but they were certainly eye catching.

When the clock strikes the hour, the head sticks out its tongue!

Further along, the markets beckoned and time was awasting…so walking tours and other excursions could wait for another day.

Did I mention glühwein?  The hunt was on as there were 5 different Christmas Markets in Cologne and members of our group were determined to try and get to all of them and pick up a glass (I honestly don’t know if anyone was successful or not…).

Not only were there market stalls to visit but shops too!

The return to the ship brought about the Captains Welcome Party where we got to meet the crew and enjoy a beverage before dinner.

Christmas Market Cruise Starts!

Fröhliche Weihnachten! (German for Merry Christmas).  Nothing beats being home with your family for the holidays, but strolling through European Christmas markets is pretty close. Something like 18 months ago, I booked our entire family on a UniWorld Christmas Market River Cruise along the Rhine River.  Our adventure started in Cologne Germany and ended in Basel Switzerland.  Our family of 8 (both sons and spouses and our two granddaughters) were joined with an additional 11 people from our extended Framily (Friends who you choose to be part of your Family) for this adventure.  

Jason had arranged a bus to take the group from his house in Mainz to Cologne, so on the morning of the first day we loaded aboard and headed to the Ship!

Our ship was ready for us with lots of lovely decorations.

In the 14th century, the custom arose of allowing craftsmen such as toy makers, basket weavers and confectioners to set up stalls under the name “Saint Nicholas market” to sell the little things that children received as Christmas gifts. There were also stands selling roasted chestnuts, nuts and almonds.  A Saint Nicholas market in Munich was first mentioned in a document in 1310. In 1384, King Wenceslas granted the town of Bautzen the right to hold a free meat market on Saturdays from St. Michael’s Day (29 September) until Christmas.


Over time, the tradition of Christmas Markets spread throughout the German-speaking world. The first document reporting a Christmas market is dated 1434 during the reign of Frederick II of Saxony, mentioning a Striezelmarkt, which took place in Dresden on the Monday before Christmas. Later, the Reformation continued the tradition by renaming it Christkindlmarkt (“Christ Child market”) to combat the cult of saints. The Strasbourg Christmas market dates from 1570, that of Nuremberg from 1628.

Since around the first half of the 20th century, markets have become an integral element of pre-Christmas customs. A revival took place in the mid-1990s. Many cities in Europe have established their own Christmas market with chalets and sometimes attractions (ephemeral ice rink, Ferris wheel, etc.), thus offering a more commercial market.

Our home, transport and dining facility was the S.S. Antoinette – a 443 foot ship, part of the UniWorld River Cruise fleet.  With elegant decorations, including a beautiful chandelier that once hung in New York’s Famous Tavern on the Green, the S.S. Antoinette was a wonderful home for our week of adventure along the Rhine River.

A gingerbread village was on display in the main lobby of the Ship.

Once on board, and settled into our cabins, we went ashore for a walking tour of the City and had our first visit to the Cologne Christmas Market.  Along the way, to the Market, we were treated to some local history sweet treats and got some perspective of how the city started and how it has survived for so many years.

Our first walking tour bus ride

When it comes to traditional holiday markets, Germany leads the way in decorations, baked goods, and grand festivities that range from live concerts and ice-skating rinks to the crowning of the Christmas angel. Of course, the shopping is half the fun the other half being all the sweet glühwein (mulled wine – white or red) we had to taste in each and every market as special commemorative cups were provided! 

Our walking tour took us through a variety of places to see and experience Cologne. Not sure my youngest granddaughter on Jasons shoulders, was really into the experience yet

Cologne Cathedral is the city’s most photographed landmark, most visited site and biggest draw, so it only seems natural that it would also be home to one of the city’s most beautiful markets. Located on Roncalliplatz (Roncalli square) directly next to the cathedral, the market includes a stage with live entertainment and sits beneath a canopy of fairy lights.

The Cologne Cathedral dates from the late 1200’s but of course took several hundred years to complete

The markets are made up of small stalls – each with its own specialty – some with finely crafted items – Nativity scenes, olive wood spoons and bowls or hand- crafted ornaments, scarves and other warm clothing.  Crafter stalls also displayed an abundance of small wooden figures and toys.  

Of course, there are scarfs, slippers and lots and lots of other things to view and enjoy.  Almost at each end of every row of stalls was a stall selling mulled wines – glühwein and small plates of fried foods.  It seems each Christmas Market has a different design for the glühwein mug, so you could really get smashed collecting all of them (ok, it is possible to buy the mug without the glühwein, but what’s the fun in that?). 

Once back to the ship, we had dinner as a group and relaxed.  Several of our party went back into the Market to enjoy the market with all the lights.  This was our first port of call, we several more to visit and more Christmas Markets to enjoy.

Our final day walking in the footsteps of Michelangelo and Caravaggio

A year ago, I knew absolutely nothing about a painter called Caravaggio.  He lived a brief life, but had a huge impact.  He was born in September 1571 and died in July 1610 but during those few years he had a major impact on the artworld.  His paintings have been characterized by art critics as combining a realistic observation of the human state, both physical and emotional, with a dramatic use of lighting, which had a formative influence on Baroque painting.

Thanks to Elaine and her presentations, Art History Encounters, Janeen and I signed on for the adventure of “walking in the footsteps of Michelangelo and Caravaggio”.  This started in Florence and ended in Rome and combined a whole lot of walking with learning about these two artists.  

Elizabeth Namack Ross King and Elaine Ruffolo

Elaine was accompanied by Ross King – both recognized Renaissance Art Historians well versed in both Michelangelo and Caravaggio.  We started in Florence with a focus on early Michelangelo and then moved to Rome where we transitioned more towards Caravaggio (still with a bit of Michelangelo of course) and visited a variety of museums with fantastic collections.

On our final day, our visit to the Galleria Borghese and Doria Pamphilij was truly a treat.  Works by Michelangelo and Caravaggio of course but also Bernini, Titian, Raphael and many others.

Bernini – David a couple of shots. A very dynamic sculpture for sure

When you first walk into the Galleria Borghese, there is fantastic art at every turn.  Look one way and you see paintings by Titian, look another way and see loads of sculptures by Bernini, walk down any corridor and there are significant works of art all over the walls.  It is almost impossible to pick out highlights – there are just so many of them to highlight.  A few are represented in the various pictures in this blog.

A few Caravaggio paintings First row: David with the head of Goliath, Madonna of the Grooms and Saint John the Baptist; Bottom – Self portrait as Bacchus (sick Bacchus) and Saint John the Baptist

In addition to the massive number of paintings, there are multiple sculptures by Bernini – many situated in the specific room they were designated to be when created.    I can certainly see that I have to get back to the Borghese to walk through another time just to see all the items I missed!

Top: Diego Velázquez, Portrait of Innocent X, Filippo Lippi, Annunciation (c. 1445–1450) and Raffalello – Deposition. Bottom Titian, Salome (c. 1515) and Venus Victrix – Antonio Canova(modeled by Napoleon’s naughty sister)

Our final stop of the journey was to the Doria Pamphilij.  This very large private art collection housed in the Palazzo Doria Pamphilj and contains a large collection of paintings, furniture and statuary that had been assembled since the 16th century by the Doria, Pamphilj, Landi and Aldobrandini families now united through marriage and descent under the simplified surname Doria Pamphilj. 

Beautiful views everywhere you look!

Caravaggio – Penitent Magdalene. The painting portrays a repentant Mary Magdalene bowed in penitent sorrow as she leaves behind her dissolute life, its trappings abandoned beside her.  At the time of its completion, ca. 1594–1595, the painting was unconventional for its contemporary realism and departure from traditional Magdalene iconography.. This is at  Doria Pamphilj Gallery in Rome and is One of David’s favorite painting

The Palazzo has grown over the centuries; it is likely to be the largest in Rome still in private ownership. The main collection is displayed in state rooms, including the chapel, complete with the mummified corpse of the family saint. However, the bulk is displayed in a series of four gilded and painted galleries surrounding a courtyard. 

After touring the various galleries, we had a private dinner in one of the grand salons.  It was truly a remarkable place to end of our tour with Elaine and Ross.

Elizabeth and David, David, Ross and Janeen and Elaine with her “Happy Face”

Over the course of the last 8 days or so, we have seen a whole range of works of art that we continue to discuss and review.   I have lost count of the number of things Michelangelo did – sculptures, paintings, architecture but I (David) have to say the Laurentian Library in Florence was a major highlight.  The difference between Michelangelo and Caravaggio is vast – but they both had a profound impact in their day.  I cannot even begin to say which things we saw were our favorites – there was so much to absorb and enjoy.  

A special thank you to Elaine Ruffolo and Ross King for putting this together and to Elizabeth Namack and Jennifer Hagg for all the coordination and efforts and guidance both before, during and after our tours.

Join Elaine each week when she does presentations on Sunday. Go to her website for more information.: https://www.elaineruffolo.com. And to learn more about more about Ross and all his great books, go to https://www.rosskingbooks.com

After Rome, we go to Germany, to connect with our family and friends to start a River Boat Christmas Market Cruise on the Rhine River starting in Cologne Germany stopping in France and ending in Basel Switzerland!  Lots more to come, so keep connected and leave a comment!