Lover of Wine – Travel along on our adventures – DAVID & JANEEN

Another beautiful day in Florence and we are heading out for more art, culture and historic sites.  After gathering together as our group, we went towards the Arno River and across the Ponte Vecchio.  This medieval stone closed-spandrel segmental arch bridge over the Arno, was spared from destruction during World War II, it is noteworthy for the shops built along it which were originally fish markets but these were moved during the 1500’s and goldsmiths and jewelers have made the bridge their home.  Unknown to most visitors, there is a Corridor going over the top – specifically The Vasari Corridor.  This elevated enclosed passageway connects the Palazzo Vecchio with the Palazzo Pitti.

One of our stops, along the way, was at Basilica of Santo Spirito.  Inside is a wooden crucifix cross which is reputed to have been carved by Michelangelo.  He is said to have carved the nude Jesus when he was 18 and living in the Basilica. 

This 53-inch wooden Crucifix was discovered by chance in 1962, in a convent corridor and was so badly overpainted that it was barely recognizable as one of Michelangelo’s artworks.

Our next stop was to the Palazzo Pitti and the Palatine Gallery.  The Palazzo Pitti, is a vast, mainly Renaissance, palace.  It is situated on the south side of the River Arno, a short distance from the Ponte Vecchio. The core of the present palazzo dates from 1458 and was originally the town residence of Luca Pitti, an ambitious Florentine banker.

The palace was bought by the Medici family in 1549 and was the residence of the Medici dynasty, then of Hapsburg-Lorraine court and lastly of the House of Savoy, hosting the King of Italy from 1865 to 1919.  Within the Palace are displayed a huge number of artworks.  The Palatine Gallery and Royal and Imperial Apartments occupy the entire first floor of the Palace.  The lavish Gallery was founded at the end of the 19^thcentury by the Habsburg-Lorraine family who hung about 500 masterpieces in the ceremonial rooms chosen from the main Medici collection.  The collection is really overwhelming with paintings by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto, Caravaggio and Rubens.

Since our adventure has a focus on Michelangelo and Caravaggio we made a bee line to view the works by Caravaggio.  Of course, along the way we saw lots of other wonderful paintings.

A quick stop at the Gallery of the Academy of Florence to view Michelangelo David, the hall of “prisoners” and several other pieces. 

Along the walkway are a number of unfinished works – Michelangelo felt he could see the figures in the stone and was just releasing them.

Our next stop was one I have been anticipating for a very long time – the Laurentian Library.  

The Laurentian Library is a historic library containing more than 11,000 manuscripts and 4,500 early printed books.  Built in a cloister of the Medicean Basilica di San Lorenzo di Firenze under the patronage of the Medici pope Clement VII, the library was built to emphasize that the Medici were no longer just merchants but members of intelligencia and ecclesiastical society. It contains the manuscripts and books belonging to the private library of the Medici family. The library building is renowned for its architecture designed by Michelangelo.

The design created was restrained and beautiful at the same time.   The Library was commissioned in 1523 and construction began in 1525; however, when Michelangelo left Florence in 1534, only the walls of the reading room were complete. It was then continued by Tribolo, Vasari, and Ammannati based on plans and verbal instructions from Michelangelo.  Michelangelo never returned and thus never saw his designs become reality.  

Once we all gathered the Library Curator brought out several books – most of which were part of the original collection.  When the library first was opened, all the books were chained to the desks – with a card catalog listing the works on the end of a bench.  The chains were necessary so the books didn’t ‘walk out the door’ as they were quite valuable.

One of the books we saw was an original copy of Dante’s Divine Comedy which he began writing around 1308 and completed around 1321, shortly before the author’s death. Dante’s son wrote comments in the margins of the book. It is widely considered the pre-eminent work in Italian literature and one of the greatest works of Western literature.  

Janeen’s favorite book was a merchant’s book where he had added drawings and comments to his inventory and profit and loss columns. He notes the acceptance of refugees from Siena during conflict years, and the drawings show the buildings and streets of the time.

It was a full day for sure with lots more to come!

The second day of the program with Elaine and Ross we were filled with art…well, in all honesty, it would be impossible to be in Florence and not be surrounded by fabulous art.  Today we headed out to visit the Bargello.  The Museo Nazionale del Bargello is located in one of the oldest public buildings in Florence.  Contained within its walls is one of the most important collections of Italian Renaissance sculpture.  Along the way we saw masterpieces by Donatello, Verrocchio, Cellini and of course our main subject guy, Michelangelo.

The place was founded in 1255 and built to serve as the first public building in medieval Florence.  It was soon to became the seat of the Podesta, the chief city magistrate whose many coats of arms are still set in the walls of the courtyard.   In the mid 1500s the building became the seat of the “Bargello” – the head of the city police and was used as a prison for many years.

Completely restored in the mid 1800’s it was opened as the first National Museum of the then newborn Kingdom of Italy and was dedicated to the arts of the Middle-ages and Renaissance.

  Many of the bronze and marble sculptures that belonged to the Medici dynasty found their way to this Museum.

After being overwhelmed by all the sculpture and bronze we made our way over to the Medici Tombs at the Basilica of San Lorenzo.  The Medici Chapels are really two chapels built between the 16th and 17th centuries as an extension to the Basilica of San Lorenzo. They are the Sagrestia Nuova (‘New Sacristy’), designed by Michelangelo, and the larger Cappella dei Principi (‘Chapel of the Princes’), a collaboration between the Medici family and architects.

The New Sacristy – so named to so named to distinguish it from the old one built by Brunelleschi in the church was designed and built by Michelangelo from 1519 to house the tombs of Lorenzo and Giuliano de’ Medici, which were decorated with his wonderful sculptures.  Michelangelo created for the Medici Chapels some of his most beautiful sculptures: the four Parts of the Day (Dusk, Day, Dawn and Night) that are part of the funeral monuments of Lorenzo and Giuliano de’ Medici, and the stunning Medici Madonna.  Although it was vaulted over by 1524, the ambitious projects of its sculpture and the intervention of events, such as the temporary exile of the Medici (1527), the death of Giulio, eventually Pope Clement VII, and the permanent departure of Michelangelo for Rome in 1534, meant that Michelangelo never finished it.

The Chapel of the Princes with its crypt is the proper burial place of members of the Medici family.  The Chapel was based on the idea that the Grand Duke Cosimo II de’ Medici wanted to create a monument for a family tomb. Work began on the tomb under Grand Duke Ferdinando I de’ Medici who appointed architect and sculptor Matteo Nigetti in 1604, based on a design by Don Giovanni de’ Medici, brother of the Grand Duke himself. Nigetti completed the mausoleum in 1640.  It has a large dome and marble interior. The octagonal room is 92 ft wide and is surmounted by the dome of San Lorenzo, which reaches a height of 194 ft, the second most majestic in the city after Filippo Brunelleschi’s dome.

The octagonal room is almost entirely covered with stones and different-coloured marbles. The six porphyry(rare purple) sarcophagi of the Grand Dukes are contained in niches along the walls and complemented by bronze statues. The interior has rich inlays referred to as Florentine mosaic, a method of piecing together semi-precious stones.  The paintings in the dome are of the Creation, Death of Abel, Sacrifice of Noah, Nativity, Death and Resurrection, Last Judgment, are by Pietro Benvenuti.  The Chapel of the Princes is really overwhelming with color and beautiful pieces.

The works of Michelangelo just continue to amaze and there are a lot more to discover.

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The first part of this adventure is focused on Michelangelo – after all, he was from Florence and some of his early works are here.  On the first day, we gathered together to get to know the other participants, formally meet Elaine Ruffolo and Ross King before heading out for our first walking tour.

After a short walking tour which took us past the Palazzo Vecchio with the statue of David (the original is in the Uffici) and Hercules and Cacus standing guard at the entrance.  Of course, there are a lot of other statues in the Square along with a lovely fountain.  

Eventually, we found our way to Casa Buonarroti.  This house-museum was purchased by Michelangelo and is where his descendants lived.  Michelangelo was born in Caprese in the province of Arezzo, when his father Ludovico di Leonardo, although Florentine, had moved there to hold a public office. It is not the only residence owned by Michelangelo in the city, there were more than one, but this one was bought by him in 1508. 

Michelangelo never married or had any children and his heirs were from his brother and his children.  His grand-nephew was the major person to transform the property from a humble home to a tribute to his great Uncle – Michelangelo. 

This museum and monument, is a place of memory and celebration of the genius of Michelangelo.  There are two early carved masterpieces of Michelangelo’s from his youth – the Madonna of the Stairs and the Battle of the Centaurs.  The house has a number of writings, sketches and other works by Michelangelo.

One of the pieces in the museum is the model Michelangelo had made of his design for the front of Basilica of San Lorenzo.  His plan was to be done in marble with many statues.  Unfortunately, while the plan was generally accepted, he could never get approval or funding to proceed.  This was one of his greatest disappointments.  

This was just the first day of our adventure and it was a fitting beginning to appreciate Michelangelo the great artist, sculpture and architect.

Several years ago, during the pandemic, I signed up for a Smithsonian presentation about Renaissance art presented by Elaine Ruffolo.  She has been teaching art history in Florence, Italy since 1990 and is a popular instructor for students and adults alike. Her special interests included the history of patronage and the economy of Italian Renaissance city-states.  As a result of that presentation, we started watching her weekly presentations (via zoom) on many subjects related to the Renaissance history.  About a year ago, she let it be known that she would be doing a tour in conjunction with Ross King called “In the Footsteps of Michelangelo and Caravaggio”.  Ross had presented several programs during the last four years and I had read a number of his books (Brunelleschi’s Dome: The Story of the Great Cathedral in Florence, Michelangelo and the Pope’s Ceiling, The Bookseller of Florence and several others – all of which fit right in with the program description.) and the schedule for this journey fit right in with our plans to be in Europe so we signed up. 

In preparation of this journey, we read a couple of books about Michelangelo and Caravaggio and thus made sure we viewed a couple of Caravaggio’s paintings in the Co-Cathedral on Malta at the start of this Adventure.  After our Mediterranean Adventure ended on the Oceania Cruise, we flew to Florence and started our Italian Adventure.

We arrived in Florence several days prior to the start of the Michelangelo and Caravaggio event so we had a couple of days to relax and re-explore the city.  We had been here 20 some years ago so we had some idea of where we were and what to expect.  However, our hotel, the Hotel Bunelleschi was a bunch of steps up from the place we stayed previously and very close to the main attractions.

While the previous post (Medici Villas) wasn’t related to the Journey we are now undertaking, it was a tease of wonders to begin.  It did, however, give us a beautiful time at two Villas and allowed us to explore some of the areas of the city.  Additionally, it allowed time for Janeen to get her hair done and to wander around the City.  Florence is a BEAUTIFUL place and has been around for a VERY long time.  

Florence was founded as a Roman military colony about the 1st century BCE, and during its long history it has been a republic, a seat of the duchy of Tuscany, and a capital (1865–70) of Italy.  Along the way it was the starting point of the Renaissance and fostered any number of artists, sculptures and architects.  

A key starting point is the Starting iconic Santa Maria del Fiore, affectionately known as Il Duomo. This massive cathedral had four different architects working on it across multiple time periods. It was completed by 1436 with the help of Filippo Brunelleschi, who engineered the dome, bringing the total time for completion to 140 years.  The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore is the fourth largest cathedral in the world, after St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, St. Paul’s in London and Milan’s Duomo. Not only is it one of the largest cathedrals in the world, but it’s also one of the largest cathedrals in all of Christianity. 

Comprised of three buildings, the complex includes the Piazza del Duomo, the Baptistery and Giotto’s Campanile. All of these are amazing buildings with tons of history.

We toured the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo which is the Museum of the Works of the Cathedral.  Inside the museum there are the original Baptistery doors, a number of statues and a whole lot of history.  (We did this on our own but I came back with the “group” once tour officially started.)

In addition to walking around the City, we had a lovely lunch at a two star Michelin restaurant, Santa Elisabetta which is located in the Hotel.  We have had a number of Michelin star meals and this was not a disappointment.  It was like we had a private dinner as there was only one other couple in this very small restaurant (six tables).  

We had a five-course meal – Traces of Innovation, all from the sea.  About half way through the meal we were able to meet the Chef who manages several locations!  Truly an enjoyable meal.

Now we were ready for the rest of the group to gather and officially start the adventure.

Over the last 4 or 5 years, I have heard and learned a great about The House of Medici.  This Italian banking family and political dynasty first consolidated power in the Republic of Florence under Cosimo de’ Medici and his son Lorenzo “the Magnificent” during the first half of the 15th century. The family originated in the Mugello region of Tuscany, and prospered gradually in trade until it was able to fund the Medici Bank. This bank was the largest in Europe in the 1400s and facilitated the Medicis’ rise to political power in Florence, although they officially remained citizens rather than monarchs until the 16th century.

In 1532, the family acquired the hereditary title Duke of Florence. In 1569, the duchy was elevated to the Grand Duchy of Tuscany after territorial expansion. The Medici ruled the Grand Duchy from its inception under the builder Cosimo I until 1737, with the death of Gian Gastone de’ Medici. 

During their rise to power and wealth, they acquired property throughout the region.  The first holding outside the security of Florence was Villa Medici in Fiesole.  This was the first example where the idea of ​​a country residence breaks away from the traditional concept of a fortress and castle, evolving into an independent form.

The Medici acquired the land and existing buildings in the mid 1400’s and developed a new style of Country Villa.  The Villa’s relationship with the landscape through the new use of loggias and terraces opens the doors to future Renaissance Villas.  This was the first of two Medici Villas we recently visited.  It is currently privately owned, but she allows access to the grounds.

The second villa was Petraia – The Villa stands with its unmistakable tower in a dominant position on the slopes of Monte Morello sloping down towards the plain with a splendid view of Florence.

The building was developed around the existing fifteenth-century central tower and its main facade overlooks the splendid Italian garden, built on three levels, or terraces, which support the steep nature of the land.

The interiors have been preserved from the Medici period especially the fresco decorations. The Villa, in fact, looks today as it was in the time of the Savoy, between the second half of the nineteenth century.  

All the fresco’s were done during the time the Medici lived in the building – thus the mid 1500s or so. These are all of the center courtyard which was uncovered during the time they lived there.

Eventually owned by King Vittorio Emanuele III, he ceded it to the State of Italy in 1919.  Thanks to an inventory of the Villa, taken at the time of transfer, it was possible to reconstruct the nineteenth-nineteenth-century appearance of the residence where there are still furnishings, tapestries, works of art and furniture that were part of the daily life of Vittorio Emanuele II.

Owned and maintained by the Italian State, we had the place to ourselves and the guide was able to walk along with us and answer questions that were raised.  

It was fascinating to view all the fresco that cover the entire ground floor walls throughout the Villa.  It is beyond understanding how the artist was able to design and execute the number of fresco that were done.  The upper floors of the Villa all represent the time when King Vittorio Emanuele III was in residence.

Both Villas are outside of Florence but were an easy hour or two ride via horse and carriage during the Medici time period and thus were frequently used.  It was really a treat to see these two properties once owned and occupied by the Medici family.  There are still a bunch more worthy of visiting so I guess we will have to come back.

There are a LOT more adventures planned over the next several weeks – however, reporting may not be as timely as they have been over the past month. So, keep an eye out for those notifications you receive in your email. Don’t forget to leave a comment!